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372 assembly question?

Cooper264

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Im a big fan of the FT kits for people that dont cut all the time. Then again someone who is used to using poulans shouldn't go grab a 660 and try to run it lol. I've only built one of the 200t's and it went awful. Still trying to get that dam saw to work right. But the 372 and 660 kits, they are great
 

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Before pulling the clutch, did you vacuum check your case?
 

Cooper264

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If you have all the stuff to do it handy it wouldn't hurt. But i've never had any bad seals or gaskets
Before pulling the clutch, did you vacuum check your case?
 

94BULLITT

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Before pulling the clutch, did you vacuum check your case?
No, the seal is missing. I can see the gap between the crank and the bearing.
 

Cooper264

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No, the seal is missing. I can see the gap between the crank and the bearing.

If i'm understanding you correctly, Your going to need to put those seals in there. If you have already assembled the saw, its gonna be kinda difficult and take a rather deep exact sized socket to get them in there. Otherwise install the seals with the crank out of the saw. Preferably with the right crank seal installation tool
 

94BULLITT

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Im a big fan of the FT kits for people that dont cut all the time. Then again someone who is used to using poulans shouldn't go grab a 660 and try to run it lol. I've only built one of the 200t's and it went awful. Still trying to get that dam saw to work right. But the 372 and 660 kits, they are great

I cut more than most, but I have a bunch of saws so the run time is shared between several saws. I do seem to run 4 or 5 saws for the part. The 660 kit is really good all though the crank failed in mine after 3 tanks. Everything on that kit fits and works nicely. My chain adjuster is a hair rough, but I can live with it. I really like running the 660. It is one of my favorite firewood saws. I have the Cross MMWS cylinder on it. I have 20 or 21 tanks on it since the rebuild. The worm gear crapped out on tank 19. The chain brake has to be pushed into the muffler to work. Now that I have built these other 2 saws I am going to look into it.

The 440 was the second saw that I did. It is a good kit. The top cover did not "fall into place", but it fits and looks fine. I think the cover over the chain brake was a little sloppy. The chain brake does not work on this one either. I heard the spring that comes with the kit is for a 660. This 440 really impresses me. It is very powerful. It runs was better than a farmertec 440 should. It is bone stock too. I'm going to run it against my 441 and see how it does. It has way more torque than the 441 does.

The 361 kit was good. The chain brake works on this one. I built this one for my dad. He wanted a big bore. The cylinder is the worst farmertec cylinder I have seen. I had to rechamfer all of the ports. It was horrible. I even too a grinder to the outside of the cylinder to remove some sharp casting flash. It was nasty looking on the outside. The short changed me on a couple pieces of hardware.

The 372 kit has the worst plastic of any of mine. The top cover takes a little work to go on. The air filter cover is very hard to latch. It is probably going to break the latches. The cylinder looked great, for a FT. The chain brake works. It oils like crazy. I noticed the crank on the 361 and 372 both looked really nice. The rods could look better on both.

I've only made 7 cuts with the 361 in a frozen log and the 372 has not seen wood yet so I can't comment on the power yet.
 

94BULLITT

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If i'm understanding you correctly, Your going to need to put those seals in there. If you have already assembled the saw, its gonna be kinda difficult and take a rather deep exact sized socket to get them in there. Otherwise install the seals with the crank out of the saw. Preferably with the right crank seal installation tool
I said seal and meant oring.
 

94BULLITT

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c1f3a9e77b09ec3eec07d08dfd37b157.jpg


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

94BULLITT

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It is not going back together til I have an oring for it. That is a poor design.
 

Cooper264

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It is not going back together til I have an oring for it. That is a poor design.

Very true. I really don't see a purpose for the funny bushing and all. I feel like it could have been designed just the same way without it
 

94BULLITT

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They could have done something better. At least they didn't put a stack of washers in there;)
 

Duce

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If i'm understanding you correctly, Your going to need to put those seals in there. If you have already assembled the saw, its gonna be kinda difficult and take a rather deep exact sized socket to get them in there. Otherwise install the seals with the crank out of the saw. Preferably with the right crank seal installation tool
On clutch side seal, you can use a large washer that will slide over crank, coat seals outer metal ring with motoseal or similar, slide seal into pocket, drop on washer, set it with deep socket or short piece of pipe. You will never over seat or have a cocked seal. Just how I do it, may be a better way.
 

Czed

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@Mattyo
Was it you that found bulk 365/372 orings cheap
I bought 30 of the 2 series orings you
Told us about for like 3.09
 

Mattyo

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@Mattyo
Was it you that found bulk 365/372 orings cheap
I bought 30 of the 2 series orings you
Told us about for like 3.09

I found the o rings for262... 268 272 ...288....394 ...

Can't find the o ring for the 372 bushing...its tiny. Technically a micro o ring.
 

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Watch this video.
 

Mattyo

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Thats my vid. What i meant was that I cant find a substitute for that tiny oring. They aren't readily available due to the size.


But I did find a substitute for the 440 oiler o ring... iirc its id4mm x 1.5mm thick

:)
 
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