.338 in Encore handgun

[FergusonTO35]

Hmm, my Marlin 1895 .45-70 with trapdoor level loads scratches my big bore itch just fine!!

 

[Locust Cutter]

I just took apart and cleaned my 4" 629 today. It's been jamming a bit with the action locking up on occasion and I've never fired any "beyond data" loads in it. Hell, normally it's a .44spl that I have occasion to run 310g loads through from time to time. The action needed a thorough cleaning but I'm not positive but what my ejector rod may be ever so slightly bent...

Pisses me off, as I don't know how this could have happened an my cheaper "lesser quality" Taurus which has a round count above 3K runs fine. This S&W probably barely has 1500 rounds through it.

I'm going to see if there are any decent Gunsmiths around here that can fix it, or if I can buy a new ejector rod. That or I may have to buy the jig with the runout dial to fix it myself...

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

That's unfortunate, but even the best of the best can have issues from time to time. Not trying to insult your intelligence, but you don't "hollywood" the cylinder closed do you??

Did you buy the 629 new?

 

[Locust Cutter]

No, I close it with my off hand, rarely snapping it. I got it from a late friend in my Masonic lodge who (after buying it new), put roughly 4 rounds through it before nicking the webbing in His hand, while on blood thinners. I finished the cylinder while he sought a bandage to stop the blood. All of its subsequent other rounds have been in my control, or supervision.

I've had it about 4-5 years now and shot it on and off. My Taurus was my 23rd b-day present to myself (I'm 36 now). The ejector rod has only spun loose once and it's never malfunctioned in a lot of rounds (we re-load, a lot).

 

[FergusonTO35]

Locust Cutter- on your 629, carefully examine the area where the little nub on the end of the ejector star enters the frame. This nub pushes back the cylinder release bolt when the cylinder is closed. If it only enters part way, the bolt won't go back all the way and can lock the hammer, thus jamming the mechanism. Check for burs, rough spots, and make sure the hole in the frame is large enough and not dragging on the nub. Next time it jams, pull the cylinder latch back all the way and see if the jam disappears. If it does, I bet that is your problem.

Another thing: does your revolver have the key lock in the frame? Recoil can cause the lock cylinder to turn slightly, jamming the mechanism. I disabled the lock on my 637 by filing off the little stud on the flag that locks the hammer and erasing the "LOCKED" lettering on the flag. I would never use that stupid thing anyway, when my guns need to be locked up they go in the safe.

 

[stihl saws]

Since we've evolved into rifles now, here's one tip that works for anything shoulder fired. I use a old ten pound bag of shotgun shot filled with sand. You'll have to crawl up on the stock more, but with it between your shoulder and the butt plate you'll feel the love.

 

[stihl saws]

300 win mag is the ultimate round if ya ask me.
You fellas can keep the semi autos too. I'll take a bolt every time

.280 Remington ftw. With a 338-06 and maybe a 8mm Remington Mag.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

So many cool choices to pick from..I love variety

My rifle selection stands at 45 Colt in a Winchester 94 Trapper, 375 Winchester in a Winchester 94 Big Bore, 270 Win in a Rem 700 ADL, 30-06 in a Ruger M77, and 338 Win Mag in a Winchester 70 Super Grade.

Still have about a dozen on the wish list....bad case of FAD over here.

 

[stihl saws]

We all like our favorite calibers, but at the end of the day the good old 30-06 with a good bullet and shot placement will handle most anything in the lower 48.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Absolutely! 111 years old and still gets it done

 

[Locust Cutter]

Locust Cutter- on your 629, carefully examine the area where the little nub on the end of the ejector star enters the frame. This nub pushes back the cylinder release bolt when the cylinder is closed. If it only enters part way, the bolt won't go back all the way and can lock the hammer, thus jamming the mechanism. Check for burs, rough spots, and make sure the hole in the frame is large enough and not dragging on the nub. Next time it jams, pull the cylinder latch back all the way and see if the jam disappears. If it does, I bet that is your problem.

Another thing: does your revolver have the key lock in the frame? Recoil can cause the lock cylinder to turn slightly, jamming the mechanism. I disabled the lock on my 637 by filing off the little stud on the flag that locks the hammer and erasing the "LOCKED" lettering on the flag. I would never use that stupid thing anyway, when my guns need to be locked up they go in the safe.

I will look at it. I'm positive now that my cylinder ejector rod has excessive run-out (deflection). I also noticed that from time to time, the nub on the face of the ejector pawl doesn't protrude as far as it should which is either a symptom of the ejector rod or an internal bur as any more lubrication would be near impossible.

 

[Locust Cutter]

.280 Remington ftw. With a 338-06 and maybe a 8mm Remington Mag.

All excellent cartridges for the re-loader with the .338-06 particularly interesting me in either a E.R. Shaw, Shillen or Bartlein barrel at least 24"...

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

S&W has been known to grant warranty work to people who were not the original purchaser. My 460 I bought second hand had endshake that was right at the limit. When I contacted then just to find out the specs and ask roughly how much the repair would cost they sent me a shipping label and fixed it for me free of charge. Drop them an email, you never know

 

[stihl saws]

Absolutely! 111 years old and still gets it done

I would be comfortable carrying it anywhere with the ammo available today. It's like the 1911. It's been around that long for a reason.

 

[FergusonTO35]

We all like our favorite calibers, but at the end of the day the good old 30-06 with a good bullet and shot placement will handle most anything in the lower 48.

Geez, what's next? You should only have one saw?

 

[stihl saws]

Yes. There are very few problems that cannot be solved with a good M1 Garand and a Stihl 460.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Yes. There are very few problems that cannot be solved with a good Marlin 336 and a Dolmar 5105.

Fixed it for you.

 

[FergusonTO35]

On the topic of big bores, I'm seriously thinking about getting a Weatherby Vanguard .375. I have no intention of ever touching off a factory round in it, the plan would be to create .375 WCF level loads for it. Something like a Lee 379-250-RF at 1800-2000 fps. Does this sound doable? Does the .375 H&H work well with reduced loads? $600.00 for a quality rifle in .375 is quite a bargain!

 

[Locust Cutter]

The H&H is a VERY flexible round, but I'm not real sure about the reduced data, outside of Trailboss, which might get you exactly where you want to be with a 225-250gr pill. You will need to examine the fire cases thoroughly an maybe only neck size though, to avoid bras flow and failure near the belt, depending on how the chamber is cut. With Trailboss or something similar, it may not be much of an issue. The .303 Brit doesn't have a belt, but similar issue can arise, though reduced loads will prolong their life somewhat.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks. I would definitely neck size, since this would be my only rifle in this cartridge and reduced loads probably wouldn't expand the case that much.