1967 HOMKO tiller info

[Stihlcutting]

Hi, I have picked up an old tiller that I would like to return to service. It is a front tine that needs some love. From what I can tell it was manufactured in 1967 according to the code on the 4hp Briggs and Stratton engine on it. I have managed to locate some information on the engine such as a parts list and an operating and maintenance instruction sheet. However, I am having trouble trying to get information on the tiller itself. It is a HOMKO model 53460100. There is no pull rope in the starter or air cleaner which I am in the process of scouring my lawnmower parts for. From what I can tell, by twisting the flywheel method, there is no spark. I haven't checked the points but think that is probably the cause. I would like to know if there are any points free coils that I could simply bolt on without changing the flywheel. If there is anyone who would have any info on this old thing I would love to have it. Here are some pics of it.

 

[EFSM]

Briggs changed many of their engines over to a self contained magneto system that does away with the points. This model has a different NLA coil used before 63, but the one for your code # is still available. BTW, on these old engines, Briggs sticks 99 onto the end of the type # instead of whatever was there before.

 

[legdelimber]

The outer tine sets are on the wrong sides.
You may want to check the recoil assembly before putting money in elsewhere.
As for the recoil rope, I'd strongly recommend taking the starter clutch off and. cleaning the hole in the middle of it.
You'll also need to clean the crank stub too.
Light smudge of oil wiped onto the crank stub upon reassembly.

There is a round piece of felt up inside of the square center piece of the ratchet.
That hole in the top of the ratchet tower is for putting a few drops of oil into the felt
--yearly--

The starter clutch also serves as the flywheel nut.
There should be a Beville (cupped) washer underneath the stater clutch.
The curve/hump goes up towards the clutch, when installed.

The top of the crankshaft extends a few inches above the flywheel and the tall square center part of the starter ratchet spins on this when the engine is running.
People were bad to ignore the little squeak or squeals coming from the clutch when it was starting to grab onto the crankshaft stub.
Next thing that happens is the starter gets stuck to the shaft and spins with the running engine.
This back winds the recoil pulley and snaps the rope off.
But the larger problem is that it also winds the recoil spring backwards (damaging it)
And then it strips out the middle of the pulley or splits it.
Either way, You are looking to find all of those parts for it.
That recoil assembly/system/parts went NLA a good many years ago.

If the starter is torn up inside, you may find it less cost/trouble to look for a cupped pulley that accomodates simply wrapping a rope around it and pulling it.
Each time you start the engine.

 

[Stihlcutting]

Thank you EFSM and legdelimber for the information you shared with me. It is greatly appreciated. I will most likely try to get it running on the points ignition before I pull the trigger on the newer magneto. As for the pull rope starter and mechanism. The previous owner bought it to use the pull start and housing for another project. the rachet mechanism spins freely and is in very good shape. I was not aware of the lubrication hole on the top. Thank you for that. I will also attempt to remove the tines and swap the sides this was another thing that I didn't notice. So far everything seems to be free and not rusted stuck. Hopefully this keeps trending. I have found a recoil start and a makeshift air cleaner from my "parts bin". My goal for now is to get it started to assess the condition of the internals before I spend on parts. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.