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1/8 & 3/16 grinding wheels

Stevetheboatguy

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So I had a oops and forgot to swap out the wheels and touched up a bunch of 3/8 pitch loops with a 1/8th wheel instead of the 3/16. I can't tell the difference between them and ones done previously. So....... Any real reason I shouldn't keep the 1/8th on and not bother swapping out until I need to do a .404?


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msellers

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mark_kershner

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I’ve used 1/8 on .325 chains and they seemed to cut fine for me. I look forward to learning more about this.


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AVB

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1/8" grinding disc won't hurt on touch-ups as that is what the HF grinder uses. But normally on the 3/8 standard chain you use the 3/16 disc. It will give a better profile on especially rocked chains.

Now on .325 it depends if it is pica or not. Pica (narrow kerf) uses 1/8 disc and standard .325 uses 3/16 disc.

Actually my Oregon grinder spec both the 1/8 and 3/16 discs for .325 chains. Always best to look up the chain grinding specs when in question.

But it take me some time to get familiar with the Oregon grinder but the HF one was disassembled and trashed yesterday. So far the Oregon unit doing 10x better job.
 

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If you are just touching up the top plate edge on a cutter in relatively good condition, the 1/8” wheel might be OK. But the narrower profile is not going to sharpen the side plate edge the same.

It would be like filing your full 3/8” pitch chains with a 5/32” diameter file. You will only sharpen part of it, change the ‘hook’ profile, etc.

With the HF style grinders, and an 1/8” wheel, I use multiple passes to sharpen larger pitch chains, shape the gullets, etc.


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Stevetheboatguy

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It's going to be a while before I need to sharpen again. But when I do I'm going to do two rocked 72dl 3/8 .058 chains one with the 1/8th and the other with the proper 3/16. See what they look like and how they cut when done.

I'm kinda feeling sceptical about finding any noticeable difference. Isn't it the outside edge that makes contact and sharpens?

Heck I do have a .404 that's dull. Maybe I'll try that one too. If they work well enough compared to the proper wheel I might just break down and buy one 1/8 cbn and call it good enough for me.


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I'm kinda feeling sceptical about finding any noticeable difference. Isn't it the outside edge that makes contact and sharpens?
The wider wheel also digs down in and gets a little bit more of the gullet.
But as mentioned before, a lot of the Chinese grinders only come with an 1/8” wheel to do everything
 

Philbert

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The wider wheel also digs down in and gets a little bit more of the gullet.
Screen shot 2021-01-04 at 12.04.36 PM.png
Yes. So a thinner grinding wheel is like using a smaller diameter file.

Again, I have used the 1/8" wheels to sharpen larger pitch chains, but I do this in several passes to create the tooth profile. I prefer using the right size wheels.

A few of the 'mini-grinders' will accept 3/16" wheels. Some of them will, with a little modification for clearance under the cover/guard. Some do not have enough threads on the arbor to fully hold the securing flange nut. A few have stated that they accept 1/4" wheels, but they don't.

A few photos here: https://opeforum.com/threads/better-quality-forester-grinding-wheels-for-hf-type-grinders.22330/

The 'full-sized' 'clone' grinders usually accept 1/8" - 5/16" wheels, in my experience, but they often come with low quality wheels that do not grind as well as the Oregon, Tecomec, MoleMab wheels.

Isn't it the outside edge that makes contact and sharpens?
Depends on what you mean by 'outside edge': you should be grinding with the rim / radius of the profiled wheel, not with the flat side.

Philbert
 

Stevetheboatguy

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View attachment 275756
Yes. So a thinner grinding wheel is like using a smaller diameter file.

Again, I have used the 1/8" wheels to sharpen larger pitch chains, but I do this in several passes to create the tooth profile. I prefer using the right size wheels.

A few of the 'mini-grinders' will accept 3/16" wheels. Some of them will, with a little modification for clearance under the cover/guard. Some do not have enough threads on the arbor to fully hold the securing flange nut. A few have stated that they accept 1/4" wheels, but they don't.

A few photos here: https://opeforum.com/threads/better-quality-forester-grinding-wheels-for-hf-type-grinders.22330/

The 'full-sized' 'clone' grinders usually accept 1/8" - 5/16" wheels, in my experience, but they often come with low quality wheels that do not grind as well as the Oregon, Tecomec, MoleMab wheels.


Depends on what you mean by 'outside edge': you should be grinding with the rim / radius of the profiled wheel, not with the flat side.

Philbert


Yes sir you are correct. I ment the outside edge of the radius. You probably know more than anyone on the subject and I appreciate the input. My only reason for wanting to keep the 1/8th wheel on at all time. Is the not having to swap it out when I'm doing a mixed group of chains. It's not a big deal to do. Just another step and I'm always worried about damaging a wheel during installation and removal.


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My only reason for wanting to keep the 1/8th wheel on at all time. Is the not having to swap it out when I'm doing a mixed group of chains.
Without being sarcastic (!) that is why a number of guys end up with more than one grinder. One for 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" or 5/16" (for depth gauges).

Sometimes this happens when they upgrade to a better grinder, and dedicate their older or cheaper one to depth gauges. Sometimes they keep an eye on CL for a used one. With patience, a used 'clone' grinder may show up that meets your budget.

Philbert
 

Stevetheboatguy

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Well I got myself in a pickle and had to do a quick resharpen on a pair of 84dl 050 chains. They were both rocked pretty good (stupid yard tree nails). Did a regrind on both and the 1/8 ground chain is way more aggressive. The only thing I changed was the wheel on the grinder. They have the same angles and raker depth. But the one sharpened with the 1/8 self feeds way more aggressive and taking a closer look at the two grinds side by side. The best way to describe it is the smaller wheel creates more of a hook in the side plate when using the same angles as the 3/16 wheel.

I will try to get some pics but I'm really bad at that stuff when I'm in a hurry.

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I have a cbn wheel on my 325 grinder, it is set at 50°, I like to use this on my 3/8 chains taking a shallow cut for the top plate, then going to the 3/8 grinder backing off from the top edge but going deeper to get some of the gullet; this sortta mimics the way most new chains look these days
 
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