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mainer_in_ak

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Oh shoot, this is an 044 thread! Got to run my neighbors 044 arctic the other day. Gosh that thin is an animal in stock form. Took 15 hours of labor on that echo cs 6700, just to get it to cut along side that 044. Timed cuts were dead-even, to the 1/4 of a second. A very cheap $225 saw, to be hanging with an 044!
20221023-182230.jpg
 

Mastermind

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Hello from Alaska, I have had issues with various sealants as well,in reallycold weather. When a saw is setting at 40-50 below zero, then are run to operating temp. Crazy heat up cool down fluctuation.

Mostly in snowmachines and chainsaws.

Some will find this improper, but I once lost the seal on a Bearcat 340 upper and lower case halves. The backfires were so severe, it would blow the mikuni roundslide carb right wide open. I was 47 below zero. I kept it at about 15-20 mph and it got me home.

I used right-stuff gasket maker, knowing fully well it was not the best choice for resistance to gas. BUT, it said "rated to -65 below zero" on the tube.

That repair is still holding up.

I've since used Right-Stuff on 3 chainsaw builds. I ported an echo cs-530, a stihl ms 310, and an echo cs 6700. All three are running great.

On the echo cs 530, I tore a felt walbro carb gasket, I even repaired that with right stuff. It has no carb issues.

Another time, I got caught in sweepers with a hunting rifle slung across my back. The forearm was torn off the barrel. I sealed it in place with right stuff. A gunsmith had a bear-of a time separating the forearm from the barrel to re-finish that ugly thing. He had to CUT the forearm off the barrel!

Anyhow, it's good stuff and I use it for bush repairs every year, often being many miles from any road or town.

Another top notch sealant in extreme cold is yamabond.

Last three saws sealed with right stuff:
20221023-131432.jpg

20220528-151224.jpg

Much appreciated sir. Thank you for sharing your experiences.
 

srcarr52

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Hello from Alaska, I have had issues with various sealants as well,in reallycold weather. When a saw is setting at 40-50 below zero, then are run to operating temp. Crazy heat up cool down fluctuation.

Mostly in snowmachines and chainsaws.

Some will find this improper, but I once lost the seal on a Bearcat 340 upper and lower case halves. The backfires were so severe, it would blow the mikuni roundslide carb right wide open. I was 47 below zero. I kept it at about 15-20 mph and it got me home.

I used right-stuff gasket maker, knowing fully well it was not the best choice for resistance to gas. BUT, it said "rated to -65 below zero" on the tube.

That repair is still holding up.

I've since used Right-Stuff on 3 chainsaw builds. I ported an echo cs-530, a stihl ms 310, and an echo cs 6700. All three are running great.

On the echo cs 530, I tore a felt walbro carb gasket, I even repaired that with right stuff. It has no carb issues.

Another time, I got caught in sweepers with a hunting rifle slung across my back. The forearm was torn off the barrel. I sealed it in place with right stuff. A gunsmith had a bear-of a time separating the forearm from the barrel to re-finish that ugly thing. He had to CUT the forearm off the barrel!

Anyhow, it's good stuff and I use it for bush repairs every year, often being many miles from any road or town.

Another top notch sealant in extreme cold is yamabond.

Last three saws sealed with right stuff:
20221023-131432.jpg

20220528-151224.jpg

I had a case of a KTM 450 motorcycle fail twice with 3 bond. Talked to some other builders and they all use the right-stuff gasket maker. It’s pretty legit, tough to scrap off.
 

whitesnake

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I had a case of a KTM 450 motorcycle fail twice with 3 bond. Talked to some other builders and they all use the right-stuff gasket maker. It’s pretty legit, tough to scrap off.

Never really crossed my mind for chainsaws I guess. I don’t know why. But the right stuff is definitely the “right stuff” lol. I use it for all sorts of automotive repairs. Always have a coupe tubes on the shelf. Actually have a tube on the passenger side seat of my car as we speak. I have also used it as a glue to bond things together before as he stated and works great! Tough stuff.
 

BonScott46

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Well, the crank came free when I tried to take the clutch off, the other half of the circlip was wedged under the big end of the connecting rod at bottom dead center. I blew out the bottom end and everything was still tight and spinning silkey smooth. I cleaned up a filthy Ebay KS cylinder I had sitting around and put in a AIP piston for the time being. Hard to find pistons these days, the guy I order from can usually get Meteor and Hyway as well but not now and he couldn't say when it would be possible. Either way it started right up and held together for a couple of heat cycles. Hopefully get a little time on it tomorrow.
 

president

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Well, the crank came free when I tried to take the clutch off, the other half of the circlip was wedged under the big end of the connecting rod at bottom dead center. I blew out the bottom end and everything was still tight and spinning silkey smooth. I cleaned up a filthy Ebay KS cylinder I had sitting around and put in a AIP piston for the time being. Hard to find pistons these days, the guy I order from can usually get Meteor and Hyway as well but not now and he couldn't say when it would be possible. Either way it started right up and held together for a couple of heat cycles. Hopefully get a little time on it tomorrow.
did you contact dukes, at saw salvage, some good stuff there
 

I Know Something

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Hello from Alaska, I have had issues with various sealants as well,in reallycold weather. When a saw is setting at 40-50 below zero, then are run to operating temp. Crazy heat up cool down fluctuation.

Mostly in snowmachines and chainsaws.

Some will find this improper, but I once lost the seal on a Bearcat 340 upper and lower case halves. The backfires were so severe, it would blow the mikuni roundslide carb right wide open. I was 47 below zero. I kept it at about 15-20 mph and it got me home.

I used right-stuff gasket maker, knowing fully well it was not the best choice for resistance to gas. BUT, it said "rated to -65 below zero" on the tube.

That repair is still holding up.

I've since used Right-Stuff on 3 chainsaw builds. I ported an echo cs-530, a stihl ms 310, and an echo cs 6700. All three are running great.

On the echo cs 530, I tore a felt walbro carb gasket, I even repaired that with right stuff. It has no carb issues.

Another time, I got caught in sweepers with a hunting rifle slung across my back. The forearm was torn off the barrel. I sealed it in place with right stuff. A gunsmith had a bear-of a time separating the forearm from the barrel to re-finish that ugly thing. He had to CUT the forearm off the barrel!

Anyhow, it's good stuff and I use it for bush repairs every year, often being many miles from any road or town.

Another top notch sealant in extreme cold is yamabond.

Last three saws sealed with right stuff:
20221023-131432.jpg

20220528-151224.jpg


The coldest I've run a saw here in Minnesota is -44. That was a day I hope to never repeat again. Grandpa lost a tree in a wind storm that needed to be taken care of. Honestly, I was more worried about the plastic then the sealants. I guess the more you know!
 

drf256

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Smooth out the rough edges, and replace the piston. You'd be surprised how unnoticeable those gouges will be to performance. Yes, at low rpm compression will be effected, but at 11,000 rpm, dynamic compression will still be plenty high
This ^^^

You’d be surprised. You need a diamond ball to smooth out any proud edges. Then a 3 stone hone with some WD40, and finally scotchbrite.

I had an 036 that broke a ring after fully porting it. I mistook the dot matrix “G” on a piston for the “S” on the newer Stihl slugs. It was actually a golf piston.

The jug had 2 grooves on it, one from each upper to the band, and quite deep. The guy I ported it for is a dear friend and said he didn’t care. I did the above and the saw is still running 5 years later with frequent use (and runs just like the ones without grooves).
 
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