Recent content by mainer_in_ak

My other wood truck has this np 271 transfer case, behind a built 4r100 with all sun coast innards and sun coast billet torque convertor. My first wood truck had a np 205 behind a gt360 and 6bt cummins. Havent really noticed much difference moving wood with either transfer case in low range...

I run an sm 465/327 v8 in my 68 k20. Yep that low first gear is great trying to crawl a load of green wood. It's getting pulled for a built nv 4500 so I can have a highway gear. Long Range Gear ships it north this week. The GM 4500 has a 6.34 1st gear and 6.34:1 reverse, so won't be much...

Upgrade to a 205 possible? Have an NP205 with pto in my M1031 CUCV. Same thing as yer k30.

Nice fkn wood truck! Front truetrac is the best. Hard to steer in the woods with thousands of lbs of green wood in the bed when using a front locker and off camber stuff, open diff isn't enough. The front truetrac fixes it all. Running one in the front of my f 350 wood truck.

If you can lighten up on the powerhead. Say a husq 395, you could easily run the GB 48 inch 3/8 low profile milling bar, gb 3/8 low profile rim sprocket and stihl pmx ripping chain. I run the GB and Stihl 3/8 lp for milling and it's excellent stuff. Whites ships to the states...

Too much powerhead (weight and power) for .325 chain/bar. The difference in kerf will be minimal. Stick with 3/8 chain.

A very good bullet. Wide expansion, excellent weight retention. The 225 interbond was discontinued a long time ago. I don't think you'll find any. In the meantime, the norma oryx .338 230 grain will do the same thing: https://ravenrocksprecision.com/norma-338-cal-230gr-oryx-bullets-50-ct/

Started moving all these big rounds of spruce and splitting them. Still can't put down this 7310p. So dmn smooth-cutting!

Had a chainsaw fella look over an echo cs 900 evl on EBAY and had inquired me about it. Figured I'd post my observations, to the greater Echo chainsaw group. Rather than advice to an individual, it'd be best to share my opinion of the saw. Just read forum member woodslasher's shtty chainsaw...

Any insert that can't be damped down, they run too hot, to the point where metal becomes glowing orange, ruining the metal and firebricks. At least inspect it for cracks or damaged firebricks, or sagging metal from running too hot.

Had another great day running the 7310. Limbed/bucked up a big spruce. Weather is too warm to move wood, snow is too soft. Hopefully some below zero temps return and my packed trail will set up like concrete. Had to turn down the oiler. Saw runs 12,000 rpms in the soft white spruce, so ran out...

Was a solid piece. I thought the saw did purdy good. Didnt bog, kept it's rpms, chain was still tight, oiled well, couldnt hear any clutch issues. So with all your re-occurring tangents about wood density aside, did you think the 7310 did well in soft cottonwood with the 42" bar? I'm a little...

Looks purdy solid, good chips. A big knotted section. If they rot badly, they're usually hollow. Jim ran a 395 same bar n chain for reference: I wouldve milled it! Lotta colors in the big ones. In the heartwood: rust, chestnut, grey. Sap wood is bright. Yep, purdy soft, they mill up easy...

Woah! 42" bar, nose burried, exj skip tooth chain and this 7310 didn't miss ah beat: