What's on your bench?

[Wolverine]

Sawing up a rather large oak today, and my 394 started idling a bit high. I was concerned and cut it off. Didn’t have the tools onsite to pull carb, so I made one last cut. Best i could tell, the throttle linkage wasn’t contacting the idle screw. Got it home and found the throttle plate a bit loose and not closing fully. This is the second saw this has happened to me on.


Little dab of red loctite should do the trick.
Sucks filing 135dl’s.

 

[MustangMike]

Well, I got news of my first saw failure yesterday - an Asian 440 Big Bore someone took off my hands.

Got the saw back this morning and ripped it down. The lower ring hung up on the bottom of the Exhaust port, which I did not widen, (I only widened the top)and I made sure it was beveled (both top and bottom). I also noticed that the lower rod bearing was starting to go, and I'm wondering if that caused the ring to hang up.

Another similar one I built for a Tree Pro had a lot more hours on it w/o any problems. This guy (with the failure) loved the saw, and always ran 40:1, but the 2 cycle oil he uses is not as good as the AMSOIL Saber I use. Luckily, I had another nearly identical saw I sent his way, so he will not be without. It is by far his favorite firewood saw. He has some decent sized hardwoods on his property, and says this saw goes through it twice as fast as his other saws.

So I have the following questions (comments welcome):

Is it likely that the lower rod bearing starting to fail resulted in the ring hanging up???

Did I get a bad crank, or are they all crap waiting to fail???

Will better oil keep them healthier a lot longer???

I'm hoping that some folks with time on these things will respond.

Thanks, Mustang Mike

 

[Stump Shot]

Well, I got news of my first saw failure yesterday - an Asian 440 Big Bore someone took off my hands.

Got the saw back this morning and ripped it down. The lower ring hung up on the bottom of the Exhaust port, which I did not widen, (I only widened the top)and I made sure it was beveled (both top and bottom). I also noticed that the lower rod bearing was starting to go, and I'm wondering if that caused the ring to hang up.

Another similar one I built for a Tree Pro had a lot more hours on it w/o any problems. This guy (with the failure) loved the saw, and always ran 40:1, but the 2 cycle oil he uses is not as good as the AMSOIL Saber I use. Luckily, I had another nearly identical saw I sent his way, so he will not be without. It is by far his favorite firewood saw. He has some decent sized hardwoods on his property, and says this saw goes through it twice as fast as his other saws.

So I have the following questions (comments welcome):

Is it likely that the lower rod bearing starting to fail resulted in the ring hanging up???

Did I get a bad crank, or are they all crap waiting to fail???

Will better oil keep them healthier a lot longer???

I'm hoping that some folks with time on t
things will respond.

Thanks, Mustang Mike

Mike,
Like everything else been coming from China sometimes you win, sometimes you loose playing that lottery. There's no rhyme or reason to it. On some cranks I have messed with some are soft as butter, some are hard as a brick. Get another one and stuff it in there is all that can be done.
I doubt one caused the other to fail in your two part problem. There again just get another p and c and move on. It's just the price to play the game.

Go to the oil thread for more information about oil.

 

[Lurcher4]

 

[Lurcher4]

New toy

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Dolmar 510 showed up in the mail today. Need to track down a recoil, this is missing it. Saw looks to be in good shape, needs to be cleaned up good.

 

[Dub11]

Dolmar 510 showed up in the mail today. Need to track down a recoil, this is missing it. Saw looks to be in good shape, needs to be cleaned up good.

Was that the one on ebay for $55?

 

[redlight066]

Ms261 in for some performance work after a little carbon removal from the exhaust port....... he’s been instructed to quit using cheap two stroke oil. Never Ceases to amaze me how some people will run any kind crappy oil

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Was that the one on ebay for $55?

Nope. $45.

 

[ZukiRyder400]

I have an older Husky 562XP that we have laying around. Got it running but it runs very lean

 

[ZukiRyder400]

 

[Onan18]

I have an older Husky 562XP that we have laying around. Got it running but it runs very lean

Try a fuel curve re-learn, start it and bury it in a piece of wood that takes the whole bar. Make at least 20 cuts back to back and see if it straightens out. What carb is on it, EL-44 or EL-48?

 

[ZukiRyder400]

Try a fuel curve re-learn, start it and bury it in a piece of wood that takes the whole bar. Make at least 20 cuts back to back and see if it straightens out. What carb is on it, EL-44 or EL-48?

EL- 44.

 

[ZukiRyder400]

I've heard that the EL-44 carbs had problems holding an idle and it stumbled when revved.

 

[Onan18]

I've heard that the EL-44 carbs had problems holding an idle and it stumbled when revved.

Not really, that was mostly the EL-46

 

[AlfA01]

I've heard that the EL-44 carbs had problems holding an idle and it stumbled when revved.

I run a 5 bolt case on my 562 that I built from a pile of parts. I added an EL48, new bearings, seals and ported it. It rips. One of my go to saws...

Yamabond is your friend on the old 562's. They are prone to airleaks in quite a few places. I sealed the intake manifold to the cylinder with Yamabond and the case halves also.

I'd pressure/vacuum test that thing and see if you have an airleak. As Kev said a gasket delete requires some relief grinding on the case. See pic

 

[ZukiRyder400]

Not really, that was mostly the EL-46

Oh!... What problems did the EL-44s' have?

 

[Benjo]

Not really, that was mostly the EL-46

Very true. I have seen a few 44 and 48 carbs with similar problems that were fixed with a new carb, but they were less severe than the issues seen with the 46. With the 46 usually it's a bad bog when opening throttle, idling lean, and easily dying if the chain stalls in the cut (i.e. get a slight pinch or forget to take off the brake before hitting throttle).

Hot restarts were also an issue, but I'm not convinced these were directly related to any specific carb. I only saw one saw that was finicky on restart when hot, all others might need high idle set or perhaps a push or two on the purge bulb and they were fine restarting hot/warm. The finicky saw had a small vacuum leak on the flywheel seal.

That said, I've worked on at least 3 saws with the 46 that ran fine for many hours in professional use.

I don't think the 562 held up as well to long hard use as a 372 (this is the progression I saw a lot of with loggers/general arborists around here who liked the light smooth 562), but keeping in mind that it's a smaller lighter saw doing the same work as a 372 and the fact that it's much more likely to die by falling out of a tree/being smashed by a tree/getting run over by skidder than by wearing out, I can easily see why they're so popular.

My personal 562 came cheap due to bogging and dying, threw in a 48 and it's flawless.

 

[Yotaismygame]

 

[Onan18]

Oh!... What problems did the EL-44s' have?

Honestly very few, they were a pretty reliable carb.