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WANT MORE OUT OF SHINDAIWA 757

peter92

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Ive got a stock 757 73 cc but want to run a 30'' bar for slabbing
not knowing any thing about saw mods , to me it seems im going to gain speed and loose torque or torque and lower speed , is this correct
what did you do
TIA
peter
 
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rogue60

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To get the best gains its all to do with the legs Peter the skinnier the better kind of like this...
cooling off chooks.jpg

Only joking is a long running joke with the guys porting saw's around here lol... Sorry I am of no help but will be many with good advice..
 

peter92

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I would have to dig up my notes to be more specific. it's a dome piston, I cut the squish flat and milled the piston to match leaving a pop up.
so the 757 has a dome piston, so leaving the base gasket out would still improve it
i dont have a lathe and nobody around my area does saws
 

peter92

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get the squish to around .020". mod the muffler. advance ign timing
advance timing , thats done by taking some off the groove where the key way is on the fly wheel , which side of the groove do i take some of , anti clock wise or the other way
also how much would need to come off
 

peter92

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advance timing , thats done by taking some off the groove where the key way is on the fly wheel , which side of the groove do i take some of , anti clock wise or the other way
also how much would need to come off
will the coil on the 757 allow me to advance the timing , some saws cant be done , i read
"Changing the timing gets into some deep thought and disappointments sometimes because some coils have a built in advance, some coils have a retard and then back to the original position etc. Some coils do not advance or retard"
 

T.Roller

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I do not know anything about these saws but shaving the key .020 on most Stihls has good results. You need to check the squish after you take out the base gasket. Like Tree Monkey said your looking for around .020.
 

Chainsaw Jim

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Ignition advance isn't a permanent mod. If it doesn't work you can rotate the flywheel back to the original position, or any other position to find the sweet spot. Tree monkey would have warned you if the coil is self advancing, so that's likely no worry.
Muffler mod can be as simple as only enlarging the outlet, or as complex as gutting it of all the baffling and adding multiple outlets with bolt on deflectors.
 

peter92

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Ignition advance isn't a permanent mod. If it doesn't work you can rotate the flywheel back to the original position, or any other position to find the sweet spot. Tree monkey would have warned you if the coil is self advancing, so that's likely no worry.
Muffler mod can be as simple as only enlarging the outlet, or as complex as gutting it of all the baffling and adding multiple outlets with bolt on deflectors.
yes ive seen some muff mods been done , and some were very well done , I didn't know abut the 1/2 a key way thing , that's a good idea , at least it can be replaced if needed
thanks every one so far for the ideas you have given me , much app it
Peter
 

peter92

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I do not know anything about these saws but shaving the key .020 on most Stihls has good results. You need to check the squish after you take out the base gasket. Like Tree Monkey said your looking for around .020.
when you say take off .020 thou , is that take off all of the key , as laying the key flat and taking .020 off it
 

T.Roller

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Yes sir. You want to take it off the side that will allow you to advance the flywheel which would mean turning it counterclockwise.
 

beaglebriar

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when you say take off .020 thou , is that take off all of the key , as laying the key flat and taking .020 off it


Pull the flywheel, mark the key with a sharpie while it's in the crank, grab the key with a pair of vise grips at the same depth it was in the crank, now carefully file off .020" of the portion that has the sharpie ink on it. Install, rotate flywheel ahead til it butts up to the key and lock it down.
 
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