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Torque wrech?

Discussion in 'Sub-forum for these Rice Burner 660 builds' started by Clackb@, Feb 28, 2018.

  1. Clackb@

    Clackb@ Fishguy

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    I've gone over a bunch of ms660 build videos in rep for my own build. The one thing that is absent in all of them is a torque wrench. Do you guys bother with Stihl factory spec torques on you fasteners during assembly?
     
  2. traffic903

    traffic903 Super OPE Member

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    Nope, except for the flywheel.
     
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  3. angelo c

    angelo c Larger Member

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    Too hard to read the torque specs in Chinese... :)
     
  4. NCFarmboy

    NCFarmboy Super OPE Member

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    I do but I DO NOT use the Chinese screws OEM on cyl. and crankcase. Torque specs are usually in Nm. I use a Snapon 3/8" dr. In lbs/Nm wrench. I do not torque fly wheel nut I buzz it on w/Green Ryobi impact driver.
    Shep
     
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  5. huskyboy

    huskyboy ONE OF THE GREATEST!

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    I wouldn’t use a impact on the flywheel nut. I use a torque wrench for that on any saw. I look up the recommended ft lb to tighten to and follow that.
     
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  6. CR888

    CR888 Pinnacle OPE Member

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    We probably should but most don't as issues don't seem to arise from just doing it by hand. After a while you get a feel for what torque all the different fasteners need. We get away with it....so laziness wins.
     
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  7. smokey7

    smokey7 Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Same thing with wrenching on cars very few things get torqued. If i torqyed eveeything to oem spec id spend most of my day looking up the specs . i wouldnt make any money. You get the feel and trust your judgement and move on.
     
  8. cus_deluxe

    cus_deluxe ONE OF THE GREATEST!

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    This.
     
  9. Larry B

    Larry B Well-Known OPE Member

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    I like to send my hands out every year to get them NIST/ANSI/ASTM torque accuracy certified. You can never be too careful about torque specs. Next year i may get them Germany certified to the Gutentight standard. :risas3:
     
  10. MustangMike

    MustangMike ONE OF THE GREATEST!

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    I do it all by feel also, putting a little extra muster on the cylinder bolts and flywheel nut. On the cylinder, I do my pattern several times, and flex that T handle near it's max.

    I also use Loctite on them, and make sure the surface of the flywheel and crank have been cleaned. Any grease or oil in there will result in a spin.

    Make sure you block the piston (w/rope) and I tighten that nut just short of stripping it with a 1/2" drive ratchet.

    After one leaking cylinder, and 2 flywheel spins, you learn to be very careful in these areas to not let it happen again.

    Cleaning and prepping of the parts is very important, especially when not using a cylinder gasket. A light sand and clean with brake cleaner is cheap insurance against failure.
     
  11. CR888

    CR888 Pinnacle OPE Member

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    The OEM workshop manuals usually have all the torque specs for fasteners in NM. So they are available for those who want to use them. I think those who build a lot of saws know what fasteners a vulnerable to coming loose, getting heat seized or causing damage being too tight. They usually use sort of loctite product in some places & perhaps a heat (copper) style anti seize paste on muffler bolts. Or in some cases change out the fasteners to the ones with serrated heads so they stay put.
     
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  12. Lone Wolf

    Lone Wolf Pinnacle OPE Member

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    Ya!
     
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