Today, on this episode of 394xp....

[dustinwilt68]

Yep the 395 elbow will work, I just always have a few of the 394s here in booth styles, usually I trade the customer if they want the opposite type, most want the HD, personally I prefer the low top.

 

[huskyboy]

He looks like my best bet so far to build up a custom milling saw 395. I have about half the major OE parts needed so far. Some parts are getting changed in favor of bigger is better. Be nice to find a good jungle clutch and drum for it. How much bigger is a 3120 clutch and drum? I wonder...

You have to delete the chainbrake parts to run the 3120 clutch/drum I believe. The saw will probably run fine without the rubber carb box divider cutting firewood, but on a mill it would probably overheat most likely. I’ve never seen a problem with a 394, but supposedly the 395 intake setup is more rugged for a mill and that’s why they changed to that. Less chance of vapor locking. I do think the 394 has a little better powerband for a mill though, it’s got more torque at low rpm. The 395 isn’t a cupcake though, it makes more power in the midrange-topend/rpms.

 

[Lightning Performance]

You have to delete the chainbrake parts to run the 3120 clutch/drum I believe. The saw will probably run fine without the rubber carb box divider cutting firewood, but on a mill it would probably overheat most likely. I’ve never seen a problem with a 394, but supposedly the 395 intake setup is more rugged for a mill and that’s why they changed to that. Less chance of vapor locking. I do think the 394 has a little better powerband for a mill though, it’s got more torque at low rpm. The 395 isn’t a cupcake though, it makes more power in the midrange-topend/rpms.

That debatable subject won't bother me one way or the other. Midrange is where they will live. Either top end should provide plenty of results. Some Smitty extra transfer ports would be nice but I'm not sure that would last very long on the mill. Vaporlock won't be on my radar now. I can make that rubber divider out of open cell foam to cool it off some. My money is on the rubber being the heat soak problem. Rubber holds heat in. By summer time this saw more than likely won't be on my mill full time. Building a dedicated 395 power head is the plan.

 

[Mattyo]

I think that rubber baffle prevents heat from the motor from getting into the carb box. But who knows.

 

[Wolverine]

Can someone tell me the OD of the 394 intake elbow, filter side?

 

[huskyboy]

I think that rubber baffle prevents heat from the motor from getting into the carb box. But who knows.

I agree with this

 

[Mattyo]

Can someone tell me the OD of the 394 intake elbow, filter side?

Sorry....just went downstairs to take a photo then remembered the elbows are in the shed...ugh. I'll get take a measurement tomorrow.

 

[Wolverine]

Sorry....just went downstairs to take a photo then remembered the elbows are in the shed...ugh. I'll get take a measurement tomorrow.

I wanted to stop by my local Cycle Gear and get a Uni last night. Looks like 1 1/4 will do. Thanks anyway.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I just measured a 394 intake elbow @ 1.25"


I'll be using open cell foam in place of the rubber divider block. Still say the rubber is the problem with holding heat in. Open cell foam will let cool injection air pass through and out toward the cylinder to cool the block. That will never happen with a rubber divider. I have had many street rods and small engines with vapor lock problems all related to poor air flow or none. Worked on plenty of flatheads engines, tractors, cooking carbs that vent fuel like steam and race cars that roast everything. Almost always you need to insulate from exhaust heat and move air through that area by any and all means necessary. Works ninety percent of the time. The only heat soak problems not "cureable" imo are 307, 350 Olds intake manifolds and FE iron intake manifolds. *f-word them FE iron intakes!

 

[Wolverine]

Anyone have pictures of their 94/5 with a foam style or K&N filter? I'm exploring options for a washable. I don't see any offset flanges available.

 

[srcarr52]

Anyone have pictures of their 94/5 with a foam style or K&N filter? I'm exploring options for a washable. I don't see any offset flanges available.

Why? The stock HD filter is probably the best OEM setup ever made. I haven’t had to even knock anything off my filter on my 395 after milling for 2 days with it.

 

[Wolverine]

Why? The stock HD filter is probably the best OEM setup ever made. I haven’t had to even knock anything off my filter on my 395 after milling for 2 days with it.

Wash-ability (same reason I have them in every vehicle we own). I’m due for a new filter and an oem replacement prices higher than the Uni I was looking at.
Would a v-stack offer any performance improvement? I searched around and didn’t see much info for them on these saws.

 

[Mattyo]

Even the low top filter flows fine in this application. I dunno how much a very stack would really help. The low top filters are very inexpensive compared to the high top. And easier to change.

 

[huskyboy]

You can wash the hi top filter very easily. I’ve done it before. Just spray with simple green let sit for a couple minutes then hose out from inside out. Let dry in sun... nice and clean. You can hit it with a lite coat of filter oil like maxima Fab1 if it’s going to be used for milling. Insurance against fines.

 

[Mattyo]

The high top filters work fine in the ultrasonic too

 

[5000+]

I have a low top since new. 93 or 94. Don't think I ever cleaned it. 394/5 air injection is very good. 346 sucks.

 

[Wolverine]

Low top leaks fines period. I proved that when I first got my 394 and have pics somewhere. Milling produces many a fine too. Clamp style for me, no exceptions.

You can wash the hi top filter very easily. I’ve done it before. Just spray with simple green let sit for a couple minutes then hose out from inside out. Let dry in sun... nice and clean. You can hit it with a lite coat of filter oil like maxima Fab1 if it’s going to be used for milling. Insurance against fines.

All the years I spent @ the print shop, the techs that came in to work on the presses always advised us to not make any paper style filter wet to clean. I've always heeded that advice and will never do it. I'd rather just blow it off with compressed air. Which I've done for a couple years on this filter. It's just time.. they are a maintenance item.

 

[huskyboy]

Low top leaks fines period. I proved that when I first got my 394 and have pics somewhere. Milling produces many a fine too. Clamp style for me, no exceptions.



All the years I spent @ the print shop, the techs that came in to work on the presses always advised us to not make any paper style filter wet to clean. I've always heeded that advice and will never do it. I'd rather just blow it off with compressed air. Which I've done for a couple years on this filter. It's just time.. they are a maintenance item.

There filter doesn’t seem to be “paper”, it’s almost like a fabric cotton of sorts.

 

[huskyboy]

I’m not a fan of the low top either, it leaked fines for me as well.

 

[Mattyo]

All the years I spent @ the print shop, the techs that came in to work on the presses always advised us to not make any paper style filter wet to clean. I've always heeded that advice and will never do it. I'd rather just blow it off with compressed air. Which I've done for a couple years on this filter. It's just time.. they are a maintenance item.[/QUOTE]

To your point. ...would be nice to get an adapter of some kind to blow out the high top filters ... from inside.

Fines or not...I don't see a performance difference between low or high top as far as flow goes. Yes ....the clamp style seals out fines better. The low top is reliant on the funky linear springs and the air cover being clamped properly.

Carry on gents