STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[rocketnorton]

farmertec clutch in my 066
think it was $14.
been a while, dont pay it much mind anymore

 

[Mastermind]

farmertec clutch in my 066
think it was $14.
been a while, dont pay it much mind anymore

The Chinese clutches ain't too bad from what I've seen. Some of their drums are out of round though.

 

[rocketnorton]

oe drum on 066

 

[Hoser]

Oem clutch carrier was $15 then I ordered a Chinese clutch for $20 so I’m not down a saw if I have issues again. Not as bad of a sting as I thought. Thanks for the help

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Ok I need some help with this one.
I have an older 039 that I put a new piston and rings in , and it runs and cuts beautifully.
But, when it warms up AND I set it on the ground the idle slowly dies down and it shakes itself off, restarts fine and run normally ;as long as I'm holding it.
Now ,I pulled the air filer and watched it die. The amount of spitback was excessive. I could see the brass nozzle in the throttle bore drip every once in a while at idle ;which would cause a sudden shutter and eventually the shutter would shut the saw down!

Points at nozzle. Where do I get one of these ? As I suspect that it shouldn't be dripping at idle.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

BTW the carburetor holds 15lbs all day on the pop off after letting go at 20lbs.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Dirty low needle seat or possible deformed needle? Now's when an ultra sonic can come in handy to at least give the innards a good douche.

Fuel is getting by something somehow. The nozzle is just a route..., maybe with a poor fit?

But if it doesn't happen when suspended, it's gotta be a/v related. Intake boot, impulse line, cracked intake bulkhead..., anything vibration could affect that would richen it up like that.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The fuel line is another flexible connection that could possibly have a pinhole leak that closes when the saw is sitting without any stress between the tank and intake allowing it to fatten just enough to load up and die.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

The fuel line is another flexible connection that could possibly have a pinhole leak that closes when the saw is sitting without any stress between the tank and intake allowing it to fatten just enough to load up and die.

Everything has been replaced inspected and new seals,intake,impulse, fuel line, and carburetor.
I think the internals of the nozzle are sloppy.
It passes the "I'm drenching you with brake cleaner " test also.lol

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Dirty low needle seat or possible deformed needle? Now's when an ultra sonic can come in handy to at least give the innards a good douche.

Fuel is getting by something somehow. The nozzle is just a route..., maybe with a poor fit?

But if it doesn't happen when suspended, it's gotta be a/v related. Intake boot, impulse line, cracked intake bulkhead..., anything vibration could affect that would richen it up like that.

So is the nozzle just a tube? Or is there a check in it?

 

[lehman live edge slab]

So is the nozzle just a tube? Or is there a check in it?

I’ll go look in my book for you quick

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

They refer to it as a 'valve jet'. You can just punch it out to replace it. But if you already swapped the carb...

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I’ll go look in my book for you quick

Didn’t have an ipl for the 029/039 showing the complete carb breakdown

 

[Maintenance Chief]

They refer to it as a 'valve jet'. You can just punch it out to replace it. But if you already swapped the carb...

I figured I could press it out with my little Arbo press, but I don't know what to order from Walbro to replace it?

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Well since I have so many parts for the 021-025 series saws I decided to try and put an 025 crank in and 021 so I could set the squish on a clamshell being the stroke is 4mm longer on an 025 vs 021. Started with putting the 021 piston on the 025 crank and measuring the best I could with the piston bottomed in the bore I should be able to have about 15-17 thousandths squish if I cut 20 on the piston and 40 on the squish. It may be a complete waste of time but I’m still trying it, the cylinder got some port work done on it. Not the prettiest but there’s no rough port bevels so even if I don’t get to polish it up it should still function. Raised and widened the exhaust, slightly lowered and widened the intake and raised the intake side of transfer ports some. I realize that an 023 is an 021 with the 025 crank in it but they all seem to have a real loose squish like all clamshells so I figured using an 021 cylinder will allow me to set the squish and hopefully gain some extra power.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

It will be an HD-18C or thereabouts. I can dig into my Walbro stuff later if you don't find a parts breakdown online first.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

It will be an HD-18C or thereabouts. I can dig into my Walbro stuff later if you don't find a parts breakdown online first.

Thanks Poge, I'll poke around.

 

[huskihl]

I figured I could press it out with my little Arbo press, but I don't know what to order from Walbro to replace it?

Tap it out with a punch. It should pass air into the venturi but not the other way

 

[Mastermind]

You can replace the check valve. It's just a flat disc.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Still looking for an HD parts breakdown...