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DOLMAR/MAKITA The Official Sachs Dolmar Dolmar Makita Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

S&S_Work_Saws

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I find it simple enough to remove the SLR tube, easier than modding a PS-9010 muffler that has the baffle welded in.
Finally got the muffler gutted, and reworked the way I wanted it. Man does this thing sound amazing.
 

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Wilhelm

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Finally got the muffler gutted, and reworked the way I wanted it. Man does this thing sound amazing.
Yep, they sound great once modded.

My advice, loose the muffler brace.
They are prone of tearing the nuts out of the muffler, mine did!
Unbolt the brace and screw the two bolts into the muffler nuts.
With the SLR removed the muffler is much lighter anyway now.
 

old_sir_henry

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In December last year I sold my only 115 backup saw (other than one NIB which will remain NIB) so there is only one 115iH available for use. Even with two PS-5000, one PS-4600S and a SOLO 652 in the 50cc class still in stock, only one 115 is an irritating and uneasy situation something must be done about.
As a start I bought a 115 for parts. Then, a fortnight ago I found a DOLMAR 111 in my vicinity which was offered as a runner for an extremely attractive price. I arranged to meet with the seller, went there, inspected and started the saw and brought her home with me. I had in mind to eventually replace piston and cylindar on this one with the parts harvested from the 115 for parts to gain 0.5 horsepower and make the saw a 115.

When I inspected the saw at home I was surprised to find a Tillotson HU83 carb in place of the expected Walbro WT-76. And then looking at the mug's transfers, these were closed ones rather than the open ones found on a 111. The conversion I had in mind had already been done!
I once again contacted the seller and he told me, the saw used to be owned by his late father, a mechanist who probably has made the conversion from 111 to 115i.

Fine with me!! :thumbup:

Only major fault was a dented thread for the rear bar-mount-bolt. I had to fix this with an M8 to M12 thread adaptor.

bohrschablone_einsatz.jpg

gewinde_schneiden.jpg

einbau_schwertbolzen.jpg

Some more minor fixes like replacing all Allen-screws found all over the saw with Torx ones, new gaskets and diaphragms and a huge cleaning effort finally produced the saw shown below:

zusammen_r.jpg

zusammen_vl.jpg
 
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Wilhelm

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Hm, once the SLR tube is removed, that shouldn't be neccessary IMHO since the brace is there for good reasons.
Everyone do what they feel works best for them!

My PS-7310 muffler is gutted and that brace still ripped one of the two nuts out.
Now there is a big hole in the mufflers front cover.
I'll look into welding the hole shut, but I am not utilizing the brace no more.
The PS-6400/7300/7900 are doing perfectly fine without a brace, so once You gut the SLR or CAT muffler there is really no need for "additional support".
Heck, the PS-9010 has no muffler brace!

I have been told that the brace ripping out the nuts on the 7310/7910 is a "thing", same as the baffle within the PS-550/EA5600 muffler falling apart creating a rattle can.

Cheers! :Saeufer:
 

old_sir_henry

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@Wilhelm:
My PS-7310 muffler is gutted and that brace still ripped one of the two nuts out.
OK, you seem to have a point there. And looking at parts lists, the brace apparently was abandoned in 2/2015 by the factory as well.
I always thought the brace had been a replacment for the screw and connecting link (038174023) on top of the can of the earlier models, but that's not so, that connecting link was still there with teh models featuring the muffler's brace. Makes it even more reasonable to remove the brace!
 

Wilhelm

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@Wilhelm:

OK, you seem to have a point there. And looking at parts lists, the brace apparently was abandoned in 2/2015 by the factory as well.
I always thought the brace had been a replacment for the screw and connecting link (038174023) on top of the can of the earlier models, but that's not so, that connecting link was still there with teh models featuring the muffler's brace. Makes it even more reasonable to remove the brace!
That is what I have been told by a reputable US Makita/Dolmar dealer, that the brace caused more harm on units under warranty than good.
Apparently he'd remove the brace before handing a new or fixed saw to his customer .
Although, this seems to relate only to the large frame 64xx/73xx/79xx models.
 

Wilhelm

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Here's my 7900 with a 16 inch 3/8 setup. Taking a break on a red iron bark tree. It was running a 25 inch 404 bar for the trunk and swapped the bar over to deal with the small stuff.View attachment 410375View attachment 410376
Must be very very cold.... :p

You need a PS-550/EA5600 or a PS-460/4600S for the smaller OD stuff - so much easier on the body than swinging a 7900.
 

Wilhelm

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My favorite spike set though! :)
 

Squish9

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I have a DCS460 that still gets a run sometimes but years of running a 880 ruined my idea of what a small saw is.

The 7900 is my favourite saw I have ever owned. It does everything so dam well that I'm happy just to swap bars around and use it for the small stuff. I'm sure you won't be surprised to here it cuts pretty fast with the 60DL 3/8, 8 setup.
 

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I have a DCS460 that still gets a run sometimes but years of running a 880 ruined my idea of what a small saw is.

The 7900 is my favourite saw I have ever owned. It does everything so dam well that I'm happy just to swap bars around and use it for the small stuff. I'm sure you won't be surprised to here it cuts pretty fast with the 60DL 3/8, 8 setup.

The 7900 is my favorite saw as well. It was also the first saw I'd ever bought. A true gem. I didn't even know it when I bought it.
 

Powerstroke Cowboy

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In December last year I sold my only 115 backup saw (other than one NIB which will remain NIB) so there is only one 115iH available for use. Even with two PS-5000, one PS-4600S and a SOLO 652 in the 50cc class still in stock, only one 115 is an irritating and uneasy situation something must be done about.
As a start I bought a 115 for parts. Then, a fortnight ago I found a DOLMAR 111 in my vicinity which was offered as a runner for an extremely attractive price. I arranged to meet with the seller, went there, inspected and started the saw and brought her home with me. I had in mind to eventually replace piston and cylindar on this one with the parts harvested from the 115 for parts to gain 0.5 horsepower and make the saw a 115.

When I inspected the saw at home I was surprised to find a Tillotson HU83 carb in place of the expected Walbro WT-76. And then looking at the mug's transfers, these were closed ones rather than the open ones found on a 111. The conversion I had in mind had already been done!
I once again contacted the seller and he told me, the saw used to be owned by his late father, a mechanist who probably has made the conversion from 111 to 115i.

Fine with me!! :thumbup:

Only major fault was a dented thread for the rear bar-mount-bolt. I had to fix this with an M8 to M12 thread adaptor.

View attachment 410366

View attachment 410368

View attachment 410367

Some more minor fixes like replacing all Allen-screws found all over the saw with Torx ones, new gaskets and diaphragms and a huge cleaning effort finally produced the saw shown below:

View attachment 410369

View attachment 410370

That my freind, is a beautiful representation of a 115i. Very good find! Looks like it cleaned up very well!

For what it's worth, I had two 111s and they both had closed transfers. It was my understanding that towards the end of production the 115 and 111s got the same cylinders.


Are you able to confirm or refute this? This has me curious. I to was pleasantly surprised when I opened the 111 up and found closed transfers.
 

old_sir_henry

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Maybe the last samples built towards production's end have the closed transfers.
Fact is, the cylinders with open transfer disappeared from parts lists about end of 1999 but model 111
was in production until 2008.
However it is as well possible for a 111 to have received a replacement cylinder which starting at 2000 probably
was a closed transfer mug.
 

S&S_Work_Saws

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So I got my new 7910 brake handle today and got it installed. The new OEM handle has weights riveted to the brake handle. Is that really necessary?? I'm assuming it's there to be heavy enough to apply the brake band if the saw kicks back?
 
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