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MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

Bigmac

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Now thats an idea. Madsens catalog does not recommend it for hand held chainsaws, however, these are not your ordinary direct drive saws that we're talking about.
Ya it’s available in .063 gage, and would give it some more bite! I have seen some racers use it
 

Bigmac

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@sawfun you have a Bdc sloper 101, correct? Have you ever ran a long bar on it?
 

sawfun

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@sawfun you have a Bdc sloper 101, correct? Have you ever ran a long bar on it?
I have a BDC sloper that needs to be tuned. I've never run a 50 inch or longer on it yet. I had it running right, then it developed rod issues and got lucky before it blew. Now it needs retune. Chainsaw Jim rebuilt the shortblock. he claimed to have it well above 16k and it lost tune. Funny, but out of tune blubbering rich at 6k it cut way stronger than my 125 did running properly. Both saws running the same 36" bar and chain. The BDC saw has way more torque, even at low rpm. Now it has a regular crank. I'd like a WB under the hood of the SDC saw.
 
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Bigmac

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Ok you are jogging my memory on that now! Sorry about the rod issue but glad you have it fixed! The wb is a tight fit under the hood! You think the carb alone would be a performance gain? Do your 101’s have porting? What muffler are you running on the 101’s?
 

sawfun

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The BDC is already a tight fit under the hood. The WB should be better than an SDC, though an adapter may make that a difficult proposition. My 101's have stock porting. The SDC has the round directional muffler of a cp125, The BDC has a GEM box style muffler.
 

Bigmac

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The BDC is already a tight fit under the hood. The WB should be better than an SDC, though an adapter may make that a difficult proposition. My 101's have stock porting. The SDC has the round directional muffler of a cp125, The BDC has a GEM box style muffler.
Copy, thanks for the info. Have you tried the gem box on the sdc saw? The wb is the same thickness as the sdc, but the wb much larger every where else, and way shorter than the bdc! Are you thinking sloper/wb on the sdc saw?
 

sawfun

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I haven't tried the GEM on the SDC saw and no I'd like the WB on the SDC saw but that tank is not cut out for a sloper intake and I don't want to cut it. I'd like to mount the WB to the stock tank somehow and enlarge the intake tract. Right now the saw is nice, easy to start, and dependable.
 

Steve

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fossil

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Apparently the original owner used it once and said his back was sore for a week so he gave it to my friend. He used it for infrequent trimming jobs. He did say it was very heavy. When I said they called them McCinder blocks he laughed and thought it was a good description.
 
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heimannm

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Tim - you will discover that the 600 Series saws while being heavy, somewhat loud, and slightly underpowered for a 60 cc saw are actually quite dependable and have been responsible for putting a lot of firewood in the winter coffers.

WARNING! --- NOT McCULLOCH CONTENT BELOW

My project for the weekend was replacing the engine on my log splitter, the old Briggs & Stratton did still run but the muffler had disintegrated, one of the muffler bolts broke off in the head, and my temporary fix with a pipe & muffler threaded into the exhaust port was not really up to the task. Shame that it has only lasted 26 years...this was a few years ago when I was working up a large maple tree in my own driveway.

DSCN1678.jpg

I had a 16 HP Duro Max (Chinese clone of a Honda) "left over" from the first snow blower I mounted on my Struck mini dozer so I decided why not? It was necessary to modify the engine mounting plate and position which moved the engine ahead a few inches which also meant I needed to replace the inlet hose and the pressure hose from the pump to the valve. I decided to reinstall the fender on the engine side to try and keep mud, water, road debris, etc. out of the new engine. All ready to go now which is a good thing since I have a couple of projects coming up this week, weather permitting.

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I went ahead and replaced the oil filter, topped up the hydraulic oil, and made some repairs to the jack so I should be ready for another few seasons of splitting. I expect I will need to replace the tires at some point, I already replaced the wheel bearings a few years ago and the rest of the hoses have been replaced in the last year or two. It says 28 tons but I tweaked the pressure relief up just a bit...

I found it interesting that the bolt circle on the engine matched the pump mount exactly, all I had to do was cut the shaft length down a bit and replace the element in the coupling, both engines had a 1" diameter shaft so the coupling halves remain the same (Lovejoy 099/100).

Mark
 
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bagpipingtrucker

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I'm new to this forum and I like Homelites but have a few McCullochs that I have redone. My newest is this very clean 250 then a not so pretty 1-43 an Italian Titan 60 and of course a PM 610 and a top handle 2.0 eager beaver.
I'm looking for a few duckbill valves for the fuel caps on the 1-43/250 if anyone can point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it.
400b86c7ccb33cfdc7ac09fb81ba243e.jpg
029f5dd1656f5d612b8c894469e99a7b.jpg
9a96d91ed5e05f1c1dfcb1179b1fda57.jpg
 

Steve

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I'm new to this forum and I like Homelites but have a few McCullochs that I have redone. My newest is this very clean 250 then a not so pretty 1-43 an Italian Titan 60 and of course a PM 610 and a top handle 2.0 eager beaver.
I'm looking for a few duckbill valves for the fuel caps on the 1-43/250 if anyone can point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it.
400b86c7ccb33cfdc7ac09fb81ba243e.jpg
029f5dd1656f5d612b8c894469e99a7b.jpg
9a96d91ed5e05f1c1dfcb1179b1fda57.jpg


Welcome to the forum!


Nice 250! I have a 250 i rebuilt and runs extremely well.


Being a homelite guy you are in luck. The duckbill valves that are still avaliable through the aftermarket for homelite stuff will work with some slight modification to the cap. As far as i know, that is the only thing close to what will fit.

I know Mark has done this to alot of his saws. Maybe he can help you better.

@heimannm
 
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