Stihl RM vs RS in hardwood

[rumatt]

I've been experimenting with RM vs RS chain (.325) and am not seeing a lot of speed differences in hardwood (oak that's been down for 1 year, but off the ground).

However I am noticing that it is significantly smoother and less chattery. Night and day difference. It's really nice.

Is RS only faster in soft wood?

These are not new chains so are subject to my hand filing (with a Stihl guide) but I've tried a couple times and came away with the same conclusion.

I got the same result on the analogous comparison for Picco chains (forget what Stihl calls them. PS3 and Pm3????)

 

[beaglebriar]

I got a partial roll of RM3 the other day. Looks decent for safety chain, haven't tried it yet. Should be easy enough to delete the bumper links if it comes to that.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I got a partial roll of RM3 the other day. Looks decent for safety chain, haven't tried it yet. Should be easy enough to delete the bumper links if it comes to that.

You won't need to on a 20" bar. Plenty of room there to move chips.

 

[beaglebriar]

You won't need to on a 20" bar. Plenty of room there to move chips.

I run mostly 16" on the 346's. Like to keep them light and zippy.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I'm light but not very zippy unless I eat too much sugar.
Looks like Braking Bad on Blue Crystal

 

[RI Chevy]

I have experimented alot with .325 chain. The key to .325 chain is getting it to cut like 3/8, but keep the fast chain speed.
My full chisel is much faster than semi chisel in all woods.

 

[jakethesnake]

I use mostly chisel. The semi isn’t painful slow. I usually don’t notice but I keep semi on my main beater saw just for edge retention. In that dry oak you’re cutting semi is perfect

 

[andyshine77]

Out of the box .325 RS doesn't cut all that well, the depth gauges are all over the place too. After a good filing and getting the gauges in order, it cuts quite a bit better than RM.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Out of the box .325 RS doesn't cut all that well, the depth gauges are all over the place too. After a food filing and getting the gauges in order, it cuts quite a bit better than RM.

You got Monday cutters on that chain. All chain manufactures are all over the map with depth gauges in my book. On one roll or loop it's nice and next is *f-worded!
RS loops have been the most consistent for me. My buddy Jon has a minty fast roll of RS 3/8 50. Works good all around straight off the roll.

 

[Wolverine]

I personally have never used a loop of any semi that would cut as fast as full chisel. I use a bunch of RS and LGX and after learning to square file, it's FAF and smooth as butter. I totally gave up on semi. I do have a loop or two around but for me, I'd rather carry a few extra loops of chain and switch out when that fine edge begins to slow (or switch saws depending on the size of the job). Most of what I cut is clean wood (not skidded), and I'm very careful not to touch dirt.


EDIT: I really don't cut softwoods either. Oak, hickory, apple, and maple is probably the softest of the group.

 

[rumatt]

I personally have never used a loop of any semi that would cut as fast as full chisel. I use a bunch of RS and LGX and after learning to square file, it's FAF and smooth as butter. I totally gave up on semi. I do have a loop or two around but for me, I'd rather carry a few extra loops of chain and switch out when that fine edge begins to slow (or switch saws depending on the size of the job). Most of what I cut is clean wood (not skidded), and I'm very careful not to touch dirt.


EDIT: I really don't cut softwoods either. Oak, hickory, apple, and maple is probably the softest of the group.

When cutting oak, how long before you swap on a different chain? Every couple tanks of gas?

 

[00wyk]

Semi won't cut as fast as full if you maintain them both well. What semi does is last all day in hard dirty woods, and will still cut even if you rock it. I used to run square chisel stateside in softwoods. Here in Ireland, I only use semi.

Semi chisel, hard seasoned oak:

 

[Wolverine]

When cutting oak, how long before you swap on a different chain? Every couple tanks of gas?

Pretty much. Many variables. If I had to guess maybe 3-4. I'm pretty OCD with keeping a razor sharp edge. Soon as it falls off a little, it gets swapped or I change saws. It's easier to maintain the edge if you don't just keep hammering away with it dull. I like to file at home in the shop so I typically don't in the field.



If I were constantly cutting in conditions with dirty wood, I'd probably try harder to make semi work.

 

[jakethesnake]

Well I guess I’ve seen some *s-word even semi wont keep an edge in so yeah. I keep plenty of semi on hand. Even for the longer bars

 

[066 redeye]

If I use semi and hand in the same sentence it usually changes to hard.

 

[huskyboy]

I've been experimenting with RM vs RS chain (.325) and am not seeing a lot of speed differences in hardwood (oak that's been down for 1 year, but off the ground).

However I am noticing that it is significantly smoother and less chattery. Night and day difference. It's really nice.

Is RS only faster in soft wood?

These are not new chains so are subject to my hand filing (with a Stihl guide) but I've tried a couple times and came away with the same conclusion.

I got the same result on the analogous comparison for Picco chains (forget what Stihl calls them. PS3 and Pm3????)

Videos of the timed cuts between the RS and RM?

 

[Wilhelm]

I don't use/have Stihl chains, nor do I own/use any .325" - but I buck a lot of hardwoods of which turkey oak is the densest.
For me semi chisel and round tooth don't come close to round filed full chisel period!

You may get different results due to Your own sharpening technique.
I have come to really like the Archer FastFiler jig Sondre got me from HLSupply, once converted to the FastFiler jig my chains have really good bite in hardwoods.

 

[CR888]

I have to use semi chisel for the majority hardwoods I cut which is a shame cause I like the way full chisel cuts, not just its speed advantage. But I've learned to make semi perform pretty well, have maybe 150 loops of .325 RM Stihl chain alone which is good stuff. I find the leading edge point of full chisel is its vulnerable point, its what gets beaten out of shape in hard dry wood. Square chisel seams to support that working corner better and I have a good few CL Oregon loops, but no Simmington yet so its really just play chain. I can get away with PS full chisel on top handles if cutting green wood but its easier to be safe and run semi, after a few hours work I just want chain that gets the job done and stays sharp for as many cuts as it can.

 

[00wyk]

I have to use semi chisel for the majority hardwoods I cut which is a shame cause I like the way full chisel cuts, not just its speed advantage. But I've learned to make semi perform pretty well, have maybe 150 loops of .325 RM Stihl chain alone which is good stuff. I find the leading edge point of full chisel is its vulnerable point, its what gets beaten out of shape in hard dry wood. Square chisel seams to support that working corner better and I have a good few CL Oregon loops, but no Simmington yet so its really just play chain. I can get away with PS full chisel on top handles if cutting green wood but its easier to be safe and run semi, after a few hours work I just want chain that gets the job done and stays sharp for as many cuts as it can.

One of the great advantages of semi chisel is it has no tip to lose. In chisel if you dull that tip, you just threw away all the speed advantage you had and then some, and now have to nurse it back to health. Rock it good and that chain goes back in to the jeep, and will require a lot of grinding and top plate matching to bring it back to it's potential later on, which also kills the life of that chain. Rock a semi chisel chain and a couple of swipes brings it right back, assuming you rocked it hard enough to require filing before you are done cutting.