High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Stihl ms 460/660 Hybrid. 469e

Powerstroke Cowboy

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Looks like it's running good Nate. Do you have plans to go back in and adjust the ports any?

What are you seeing for rpms in and out of the cut?

I wonder if this setup would benefit any from finger ports?
 

NateSaw

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Looks like it's running good Nate. Do you have plans to go back in and adjust the ports any?

What are you seeing for rpms in and out of the cut?

I wonder if this setup would benefit any from finger ports?
I plan to get some cabers, and while I'm in make some adjustments to the lowers, raise the transfers even, maybe flow them a bit better. I will get the Tach out soon! There's alot left to do in this thing. I think a wj is needed!
Honestly it runs pretty good for what it is. When I did my 2700 poulan/346xp hybrid I had a junk cylinder and a cheap piston, guess what? It cut a hell of alot more wood than a 3$ smoked thrift store poulan! It's not gonna beat the pants off a professional ported saw but it runs good.
You should be proud and acknowledge that you learned some things along the way , predictions are for psychics not sawyers.
As I just said to my buddy Caleb... This is my college tuition! It's going to teach me more. There's more to do here!
 

NateSaw

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Looks like it's running good Nate. Do you have plans to go back in and adjust the ports any?

What are you seeing for rpms in and out of the cut?

I wonder if this setup would benefit any from finger ports?
Also, I don't know enough about finger ports to try that on this test bed yet. I'm thinking there's alot more to iron out with getting more air into this thing. I think the wj is a must. I also need to reconfigure the air filter base and cover, but not until a carb is determined. I wanted to see what I could get out of this 16a... But I've a feeling it won't give it all it needs. However, we continue to move in that direction.
 

NateSaw

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Looks really good Nate.

Better to try and fail than to never try at all.
Thanks Doc! Thanks for all the guidance and inspiration. And for the idea to begin with! I've learned a lot through this build, and there's more yet to learn!
 

Loony661

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Sorry Andy! Can't do it. I can't give Kevin his fireworks display until I learn more here.
I understand. And if it fails I’m not out anything. I’d absolutely love to see the results of it in the saw, but you’re the boss here.

I’m still going to heckle you about it though!
 

NateSaw

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That’s looking like success. What performance changes do you want to make now? How much bar do you think it can pull?
Currently, it's a 24" saw. I'd like to open up the lowers as you suggested Caleb. And also even the uppers to 124*,and transition them better. I'll keep looking for gains with the 16a for now... But it's going to need the wj, you were tight about that. I'll modify the riser I machined to accept that, and draw a new print and post it here for you all to have. I'd say when it's wj'd it should pull a 28" bar. However, it'll probably always feel best @ 24". That's my prediction. I'm hoping someone else will build one of these. I really do! I guarantee in experienced hands this can be made VIOLENT! 😈😬
 

NateSaw

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For enlarging the lowers... I'd want to make marks in the cylinder, with the piston in perfect position at bdc. What's you fellers favorite way to mark the piston, in order to get it back in the cylinder off the saw... Mark out exh and intake ports? Who's got a great trick?
 

Ketchup

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Mark intake at BDC, make sure to mark the intake walls, not just the floor. Then pull the jug and piston, put the rings on the piston, insert and clock to your mark.

On this one, I wouldn’t widen all the way to the skirt. What does your V3 piston look like now?
 
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