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Splitter 4 way wedge thread

merc_man

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Im starting to make a four way for my champion 22 ton splitter. Wondering who all runs them and what you think of them. They do sell one for mine but reviews are bad on it. I wouldnt buy one anyhow. I enjoy tinkering making stuff.

Heres what i got so far. Its just roughly mocked up and tacked togeather. Front knife will be shortened. Dont need to be that long.
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Mkinslow

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Looks great, but imo I'd straighten those two side knives instead of angled forward, just because it looks like it would put a lot of pressure on the outside tip and eventually break the welds and push them off.

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merc_man

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My thought on angled is it would draw the wood in tighter to the wedge. But im open to opinions. They are not weldedmon yet. I may even make a heavyer( thicker) set.

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Mkinslow

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I think itll work fine bud,its just in my mind ,I see a lot of pressure being put on the outside tips. If you went bigger it would probably help quite a bit though.

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Homemade

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My advice is to make the side wings longer. I bought the timber tuff fleet farm slip on 4 way wedge. It had short wings and it just barely cracked the wood in the 4 way. I cut them off and added wings that are 8” long 4” deep and 3/8 thick.


Also take into consideration the hight is the wings from the beam. Mine are too high and end up respiting the bottom pieces all the time.
 

weesa20

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Is this for a wedge on beam or wedge on ram and split on or pinned on? If wedge on ram and pinned, it should have some vertical play or else the bottom splits can get wedged under the wings and wreak havoc.
 

merc_man

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The splitter in this video is pretty.much the same setup as mine. ( same splitting wedge)


I would only be using wedge for the rounds that are about 6 to 8 inchs.

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merc_man

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Is this for a wedge on beam or wedge on ram and split on or pinned on? If wedge on ram and pinned, it should have some vertical play or else the bottom splits can get wedged under the wings and wreak havoc.
I am gonna have my side sedges on an angle lower at front and higher at back to prevent then from wedging the lower two splits.

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merc_man

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Heres where im at today. I made new thicker side blades. Little longer too.
Got the back part on that holds it on. Its a loose fit so thers room for stuff to move if needed. Put a peace of angle iron on the inside v so the splitter wedge forms against that and no movement while splitting.

All done for now. I ran out of wire on both my welders[emoji26]
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merc_man

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Well got the 4 way pretty well done enough that it had its maiden voyage. Firstbsplit was a success. Red stringy oak. Would have had 4 splits but the one side had a huge knot off to the side. Butnit was a good stress test for it. Main wood i cut is ash so that will be a breeze comparred to the oak. Now i just need more wood to split.
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Locust Cutter

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My concern would be depending on the strength of the toe/foot on your splitter that the log rests against, you could snap it off. On my 35ton speeco, I've bent the foot backwards roughly 8° off of vertical. Your unit is putting out less pressure all the way around so your mileage might vary.
 

Lightning Performance

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Considering a 4 way for my electric plow splitter. The wedge is very strong and it could handle a 4way imo. I only split straight grain on the DR6 ton. It will split up to 20x20 oak rounds...no sweat. I don't split stringy wood so no issues. It has a hi and low speed. Quiet to.
 

merc_man

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Finally froze up enough to get the splitter out and try the four way wedge out. Worked good till i found the limits of my small welder only rated for 1/4 steel. Got about 3/4 the trailer split then one of the side wings broke off. I tacked it back on and gonna take it into work and use one.of ther bigger welder and do some re welding. I figured that would happen eventually.

Only other thing i noticed is with the ash the woods not that stringy so it sometimes like to launch a peace of wood. Dont really like that. Not sure how to get around that but it sure does cut down split time.

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merc_man

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Also starting to think i should try the side wings straight out instead of angled in. This may be why its building pressure and launching the odd block of wood.

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Locust Cutter

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Also starting to think I should try the side wings straight out instead of angled in. This may be why its building pressure and launching the odd block of wood.

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One thing you might try is taking a MAP gas, Propane, or Butane torch and pre-heating the metal. On thicker stuff, it can make for a better weld. I wouldn't make the wings a 90° angle out from the vertical wedge (or squarely perpendicular), as the entire wig takes on the pressure at once. With a slight forward cant say 65-80° towards the bock of wood, the outer edge will bite first, with more force, and help to hold it in (guide the wood to the center of the wedge carrier), better.
 
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