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Removing STUBBORN transfers without an acid.

popopboat

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*Mastermind has already made a video and a thread about removing transfers without an acid, but this is slightly different*

Ofcourse my dummy a*s forgot to take a picture of a cylinder before, as i didnt expect it to work this fast and well.
But, heres a piston, so make a guess how it looked like.
IMG_20220204_175803_900x1200.jpg

Anyway,I have recently bough a seized 064 arctic for real cheap with badly seized engine, 180 degrees of nasty transfers.
No major damage to plating, and i have already cleaned few cylinders with mastermind's method, so no biggie, 20mins and job finished, right? -NO.

As usual, started with scotch, some transfers were gone, switched to sandpaper and spent 10 mins buzzing around with my dremel and almost NOTHING, most transfers are still there, more time with sandpaper still nothing, then i tried flap drum, sanding drum, wire wheel, coarser/finer sandpaper, polishing compound and not a budge!

My next plan was acid or nothing. Meanwhile i remembered that i have this $5 honing "thing" , said screw it and gave a shot.
IMG_20220204_175841_1600x1200.jpg

Sprayed bunch of WD40, 10 seconds later, DONE.
IMG_20220204_175705_900x1200.jpg IMG_20220204_175731_900x1200.jpg

Gave a last "polish" with this $2 scotch drum.
IMG_20220204_175854_900x1200.jpg

So, if anyone encounters really stubborn transfers, might give this a try.
*Cylinder already looked like this around exhaust port, so no damage caused*
 

popopboat

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Yep, unfortunately.
But it still has some runtime left, right?
 

popopboat

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Looks just like the last one I pulled apart that had a hone in it...View attachment 326415 View attachment 326416 View attachment 326417
Yes, honing is not no.1 option for plated cylinder, but not sure what is your main point on this.
Plating was already damaged, therefore someone honed before me, before seizing again, what i highly,highly doubt. I really regret not taking picture before.

I mean, that was first "mehh" thing i spotted when i checked cylinder for the first time.
 
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Stump Shot

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Couple of things to note here. The cylinder wasn't wrecked by the hone, it was already junk from heat warpage before anything was attempted. The hone just exposed it, that is if they were high spots. That, or, they were low spots artificially created by some other form of abrasive maneuver.
It's actually good to briefly run a hone after cleanup to see that the cross hatch pattern is uniform across the entire cylinder, thus ensuring its uniformity. Otherwise a warped cylinder can get put back into service with a short service life forthcoming.
I usually run the hone in and out three passes with a light lube in the bore. Followed after inspection by a few passes of the scotch brite hone. If transfer was sanded out properly, a nice bright bore should be had.
As far as this cylinder goes it's a tosser, but hey it was already broke when you tried to fix it, not every one will be able to repaired, but you should be in the high percentile bracket where it's worthwhile doing, especially with high dollar, rare or previously ported cylinders that replacement isn't necessarily your first best option.
 

Basher

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You would never believe how many believe that honing is a good ideal way to remove transfer and or clean up a scored cylinder. Now many more will believe if they see and read the first post in this thread like many do, they don`t read any further than the first post with pics. in it.
 

Ronie

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