Removing a broken off bolt from a mower deck? Drilled it out!

[ANewSawyer]

Working on my old Murray riding mower. The deck needs cleaned and repainted. Snapped one of self tapping bolt heads off trying to removing it to clean under the blade engagement mech. Can I just drill it out the run a tap or somthing through it? Or maybe drill out and replace with a regular nut and bolt? Also, the blade puller brake pads are worn through, is there anywhere to buy them without buying the whole brake piece? It is # 27 on partstrees list.

 

[Fish]

Just replace the whole housing, use 5/16 bolts and nuts, your time is worth too much.

 

[ANewSawyer]

I'll have to replace the whole mower deck and the spindle. The bolt goes through both, I forgot to mention that. To replace the spindle means to deal with a 4-5 more of these same bolts. Why couldn't I drill it ot a size larger and put in a larger self tapping screw? I really appreciate the help, Fish but it seems I am low on options.

 

[RocketRoss57]

Drill out and through bolt it

 

[Fish]

You'll have to replace the whole deck?
Why were you removing the bolt? The self tapping bolts break off %75 of the time, just zip off the other 4 and put on a new housing, or one complete with bearings.
Put up your mower's model number, so we can all look at the blowup and know that we are talking about the same thing.

 

[Fish]

Is this the housing?

 

[ANewSawyer]

Sorry, I thought I had put the model numer up: http://www.partstree.com/parts/murr...2a-briggs-murray-40-lawn-tractor-2005-walmart

The deck is rusty on the underside and in spots on the outside. I have cleaned the underside and most of the outside but I needed to remove the blade engagement mechanism To finish cleaning. A bolt goes through the mechanism plate, the deck and the spindle, that you posted a pic of. I think, given the size of my yard, that I will start push mowing it all. I just don't see the point in spending a bunch of money on this thing as old as it is. I have been fighting with it all spring and summer and I am over it. Thanks though.

 

[RocketRoss57]

From what I can see in the breakdown, the bolt I think you are talking about doesnt seem to be a pivot point. If you do decide to repair it I would just drill out what broke off in the spindle and through bolt it from the under side of the deck.

 

[plcnut]

About the best method for broken off bolts is to put a nut on top of it, and weld the nut to the broken off bolt. The heat will help break things loose. In tight spaces then you can weld on a washer and then a nut. If you don't have a welder, then you are in a tough spot because most self drilling or self tapping bolts are hardened which makes drilling difficult (not necessarily impossible though).

 

[AVB]

I hardly ever attempt spindle removal; unless, I am replacing it. I usually break off at least one bolt everytime.

If you do decide to drill out make sure you got a good drill bit and not some el cheapo ones. You also want to be using a fairly low rpm drill as not to over heat the bit. Many home owner drills runs way too fast for most bits. The bolts are usually grade 8. So far the only bits I have found that works are some I got from Fastenal or a carbide tip concrete masonry bit. Through bolting with locking nut works. Over-sizing on the spindle hub is asking for it to break out as those Murray spindles aren't that strong.

I hardly ever attempt spindle removal; unless, I am replacing it. I usually break off at least one bolt everytime.

 

[Fish]

I stand by my first statement, go by your neighborhood mower shop and get the replacement housing for $20,
and zip off/break the remaining fasteners, re-assemble with 5/16 bolts and nuts, and be done in a half of an hour,
the bearings are likely shot on the old one anyway.

 

[ANewSawyer]

That does seem like a better option than drilling it out. But that still leaves me with the worn out blade brake pads. And a cracked deck. I didn't mention that.

 

[Fish]

I guess you could grind off the rivet heads, and pop rivet on a replacement, if you didn't want to buy the part.

 

[ANewSawyer]

Don't feel like spending +$50 to replace that whole piece for both pulleys. I just don't know where to get new pad material. I am new to working on mowers. Thanks for the help.

 

[ANewSawyer]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-3-4-wide-...ash=item3f62b92d1d:g:brMAAOSwYmZXMkf3&vxp=mtr

Found this but it isn't quite right.

 

[Fish]

Can you put up a pic of what you are working on?
Personally, I never replaced those brake pads, they usually wore out because the mower had the wrong belt on it, and the correct belt usually cured the blade turning problem.

 

[ANewSawyer]

Maybe in a couple of days. The deck is here and the mower elsewhere.

You know the thought occured to me that, as old as this mower is, I could put all this work and money into the deck but if the transmission or something else expensive broke, I would be mighty mad. I am going to be still and think about my options. Maybe time for a new mower.

 

[AVB]

Fish, You must have much different equipment base than myself. I have seen plenty of worn out brake pads in the last 7 years of servicing mowers. Most are not from using the wrong belt but from shutting the decks while the engines are still at full throttle. They will wear out doing exactly what they are intend to do which is stopping the blades once the deck is disengaged. Even MTD decks that need to raised to engage the brakes wear out the brake pads.

This might more like the OP is looking for if 3/16 thickness is what he looking for.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-16-Thick-...113913?hash=item1a16d391f9:g:BFQAAOSwJb9Wtiyp

 

[Fish]

Fish, You must have much different equipment base than myself. I have seen plenty of worn out brake pads in the last 7 years of servicing mowers. Most are not from using the wrong belt but from shutting the decks while the engines are still at full throttle. They will wear out doing exactly what they are intend to do which is stopping the blades once the deck is disengaged. Even MTD decks that need to raised to engage the brakes wear out the brake pads.

This might more like the OP is looking for if 3/16 thickness is what he looking for.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-16-Thick-...113913?hash=item1a16d391f9:g:BFQAAOSwJb9Wtiyp

My "experience" is more with working on a lot of Murrays 10- 25 years ago. 15 years ago, the bare jackshaft housing could be bought dirt cheap, and the complete assy with bearings wasn't much more. I see from online searching that the
abundance has dropped, and the prices have come up. And like I said, I never replaced the brake pads.
MTDs were a different animal, and the pads were cheap, available, and easy to replace.

 

[Fish]

Maybe in a couple of days. The deck is here and the mower elsewhere.

You know the thought occured to me that, as old as this mower is, I could put all this work and money into the deck but if the transmission or something else expensive broke, I would be mighty mad. I am going to be still and think about my options. Maybe time for a new mower.

The deck, crack, broken bolt and pads are what we need to look at.