Possible Inherent Issues with Husqvarna 242

[Chiseltooth]

Hello all, first post as a new member here and look forward to learning more.
I recently and gratefully acquired a really clean 1989 Husqvarna 242 ( no indication on rewind or top covers it’s an XP) ....

Well much to my disappointment she badly leaks down to the 1/2 mark in the oil tank. I couldn’t find much doing google searches as to this oil leaking issue. I wondering if the tank completely leaked out it would be more case halves but with this one leaking down to the halfway point if it maybe isn’t a loose pump or something forward of pump.

Were these little saws possibly prone to bar oil leaks?

While on the subject of the beloved 242, is this is a K095 mount (single stud) as I would appreciate knowing a good solid 15” or 16” narrow kerf bar and chain options. Wondered if the Cannon SuperMini were worth the cost vs a Sugihara or similar.

Thank you.

 

[Adamski]

Check the tank vent, which I’m guessing is between the bar stud. Sometimes they can get blocked/plugged open allowing oil to flow out without any remorse. My Jonsered 2065 did this..

 

[Chiseltooth]

Check the tank vent, which I’m guessing is between the bar stud. Sometimes they can get blocked/plugged open allowing oil to flow out without any remorse. My Jonsered 2065 did this..

Yes it is wet through the center, likely something I shouldn’t maybe be hitting with any air, not sure.. any suggestions

 

[Adamski]

Yes it is wet through the center, likely something I shouldn’t maybe be hitting with any air, not sure.. any suggestions

Pin it and wiggle it and pin it some more. Some are a ball bearing with a spring behind that gets stuck in the spring compressed position, some are a flap with a spring behind, same scenario, get stuck with the spring compressed. Either way a pin to dislodge the debris which will hopefully fix the problem. Can’t see compressed air hurting apart from the mess [emoji23]

Good luck..

 

[Adamski]

Welcome to the forum.

The 242xp seems like a lovely lightweight classic, I am a big fan of all 2 and 3 series huskies.

Btw just post in the main chainsaw area next time you will get better coverage to others.

 

[Chiseltooth]

Pin it and wiggle it and pin it some more. Some are a ball bearing with a spring behind that gets stuck in the spring compressed position, some are a flap with a spring behind, same scenario, get stuck with the spring compressed. Either way a pin to dislodge the debris which will hopefully fix the problem. Can’t see compressed air hurting apart from the mess [emoji23]

Now that makes perfect sense spring could be compressed or maybe even a piece of crud between ball/flapper and whatever it closes up against. I’m going to give this a go Adam. Sure appreciate the reply.

Good luck..

 

[Chiseltooth]

Although I was a Stihl mechanic for over 10yrs, there’s always been something about certain Huskys that I liked more than Stihls. The way they idle then build power from idle to full throttle.

Is there a way to remove ball or flapper and spring out to clean it??

 

[GCJenks204]

@Tor R or @Stump Shot could likely help with any of your questions. Just be mindful that Tor is in Norway and although he sometimes seems like a vampire there is a 6hour time difference.

 

[Stump Shot]

I will let @Tor R take it from the 242 standpoint specifically and I will speak in a more general sense.
First thing to do is assertain just where the leak is coming from. Also check the tank vent as mentioned if leaking out of the bar.. If leaking behind the bar the machined part of the crankcase could be warped usually from over tightening. This will have to be flattened with a file. Sometimes wear plates get chewed up and don't let the bar seal to the case. Could be a cracked rubber connection or housing if coming from behind the pump.

As the barometric pressure and temperature changes during the day, this is what builds up enough pressure in the tank to push the oil out if the vent quits working properly.

 

[Tor R]

Hello all, first post as a new member here and look forward to learning more.
I recently and gratefully acquired a really clean 1989 Husqvarna 242 ( no indication on rewind or top covers it’s an XP) ....

Well much to my disappointment she badly leaks down to the 1/2 mark in the oil tank. I couldn’t find much doing google searches as to this oil leaking issue. I wondering if the tank completely leaked out it would be more case halves but with this one leaking down to the halfway point if it maybe isn’t a loose pump or something forward of pump.

Were these little saws possibly prone to bar oil leaks?

While on the subject of the beloved 242, is this is a K095 mount (single stud) as I would appreciate knowing a good solid 15” or 16” narrow kerf bar and chain options. Wondered if the Cannon SuperMini were worth the cost vs a Sugihara or similar.

Thank you.

welcome to OPE.

242 tank vent. There is two guide pins, front guide pin is the one who contain the tank vent, its a very simple vent as you see on the picture. 1/2 the tank is ruffly around the tank vent, let's hope it is the issue you have.


K095 mount, personally I wouldnt dress them with longer bar then a 15", most of the times I prefer 13" on them (but I mostly cut soft wood).
A 242 from 1989 isn't a XP, the XP badge came late 1990-early 1991, the first XP top end I've seen was from early 1990 (KS top end). The biggest difference between XP versius non XP is the piston.

First thing to do is assertain just where the leak is coming from. Also check the tank vent as mentioned if leaking out of the bar.. If leaking behind the bar the machined part of the crankcase could be warped usually from over tightening. This will have to be flattened with a file. Sometimes wear plates get chewed up and don't let the bar seal to the case. Could be a cracked rubber connection or housing if coming from behind the pump.

As the barometric pressure and temperature changes during the day, this is what builds up enough pressure in the tank to push the oil out if the vent quits working properly.

this is very good advices.

 

[Chiseltooth]

I will let @Tor R take it from the 242 standpoint specifically and I will speak in a more general sense.
First thing to do is assertain just where the leak is coming from. Also check the tank vent as mentioned if leaking out of the bar.. If leaking behind the bar the machined part of the crankcase could be warped usually from over tightening. This will have to be flattened with a file. Sometimes wear plates get chewed up and don't let the bar seal to the case. Could be a cracked rubber connection or housing if coming from behind the pump.

As the barometric pressure and temperature changes during the day, this is what builds up enough pressure in the tank to push the oil out if the vent quits working properly.

Now that you mention these points Stump, the day I got the saw the entire 15” bar “faces” had an unfamiliar oil pattern on it like caked in oil and something I’d never seen before. I’m partially wondering if like you mentioned it could be from over tightening... makes sense to if the machined case face was warped and leaking while running, that would be explain why that bar oil was all over it. It’s been freezing rain all night and into this morning so I won’t be going to check it today but ya this makes perfect sense. At least part of it because she pours oil sitting overnight down to 1/2 tank which I’m guessing will be a separate issue.

 

[AVB]

Just be aware that even the oil pump itself can be the root cause. I had several Poulans over the years where the oil pump was to the point they leaked under tank pressure. What I would do is install the oil pump leaving the bar off. Fill oil tank with oil, prime the oil pump, then sit the saw out in the sun or heated space. Then after a while, say an hour, check to see where the saw is leaking oil.

 

[Chiseltooth]

welcome to OPE.

242 tank vent. There is two guide pins, front guide pin is the one who contain the tank vent, its a very simple vent as you see on the picture. 1/2 the tank is ruffly around the tank vent, let's hope it is the issue you have.
View attachment 163391

K095 mount, personally I wouldnt dress them with longer bar then a 15", most of the times I prefer 13" on them (but I mostly cut soft wood).
A 242 from 1989 isn't a XP, the XP badge came late 1990-early 1991, the first XP top end I've seen was from early 1990 (KS top end). The biggest difference between XP versius non XP is the piston.

this is very good advices.

Tor R, yes sir that front alignment post ahead of the threaded stud mount is sopping wet on mine and suspect this is where she’s leaking from to partially drain oil reservoir after sitting overnight.

Someone mentioned probing it with a needle to try and dislodge anything maybe partially sitting between ball or flapper and seat which again makes sense but I wondered if there might be a way to disassemble to completely clean rather than 1/2 attempt at dislodging dirt.

Yes this little saw doesn’t indicate it’s an XP and Thank you for clarifying

I don’t ever run anything more than a 15” bar on saws under 50cc as I feel their match well. Have been running narrow kerf .325” with I believe it might be Oregon 95VPX (I think) on my small saws. This 242 I haven’t really ran yet until I get this oiling figured out

Your opinion on these 242’s ?? Is it worth keeping or should I maybe return it to the husky dealer who sold it to me. Is this a first gen maybe and possibly problematic. I always “heard” the 242’s were well respected but I’m not so sure sitting here in the warm house knowing I have that saw to go and fix now especially when the 543’s I’ve been using almost 2 years now have been fantastic.

I’m not a huge fan of the small diameter front handle on this particular 242 but hey it’s more to say I have one not about dunning it everyday. My buddy who sold it to me says these models all leaked and to be expected. My reply was I have no use for a saw if I have to partially drain the tank/s to let it sit so it doesn’t leak everywhere no place in my stable for that.

 

[Chiseltooth]

Just be aware that even the oil pump itself can be the root cause. I had several Poulans over the years where the oil pump was to the point they leaked under tank pressure. What I would do is install the oil pump leaving the bar off. Fill oil tank with oil, prime the oil pump, then sit the saw out in the sun or heated space. Then after a while, say an hour, check to see where the saw is leaking oil.

The oil pump was my very first thought until I set it inside the shed on the concrete floor with my other saws and a nice mess of oil the next morning. Once I pulled sidecover and bar that tank vent stud “end” was sopping wet so I still feel that’s one problem

 

[Tor R]

I forgot one important thing, and you should check up this info.
Inside the oil tank, there goes a white plastic hose to the tank vent. The end of the plastic hose sit right over the tank cap. If that hose is off you will 1/2 empty the tank over the night

 

[Chiseltooth]

I forgot one important thing, and you should check up this info.
Inside the oil tank, there goes a white plastic hose to the tank vent. The end of the plastic hose sit right over the tank cap. If that hose is off you will 1/2 empty the tank over the night

Appreciate that knowledge also Tor,, hope I can feel inside the oil tank for the whereabouts of this white hose. The fill hole is small enough that you can’t get a mirror or at least I don’t have a mirror small enough to get it inside the oil tank. I’m guessing the crank 1/2’s will need to be split to get this hose attached if it is indeed come off.

Over the past weekend I took that little 242 back to our 27acre woodlot to clean up a bit of fallen and or leaning ash for some quick firewood and I noticed even though we installed a new OEM “Band” style clutch spring, it’ll stall the engine as soon as the chain brake is engaged. Also if I leaned into the cut too much it didn’t seem to take much effort to stall the chain and wondering if somehow the shoes and clutch drum has oil residue on them.

I might’ve been better off to accept the fact these older and what I perceived as a somewhat legendary model as these 242 maybe aren’t as troublefree as some of the newer models. I haven’t been a real fan since I can’t adjust carbs anymore. I reluctantly purchased a new 543 two years ago now (replaced my troublesome 550xp) and man it’s been one great little saw especially with narrow kerf .325, 95VPX (I think that’s the name of it) and a 15” Cannon Supermini. Can’t say enough good about that 543 and my luck if I don’t buy another Husqvarna will discontinue it...