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Oem vs aftermarket bearings

Johnmn

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What do you guys use and why? I put cross bearings from hl supply on my 670 champ they seemed good. Gonna do a complete rebuild on another saw just contemplating the bearing situation.
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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I have been using OEM. Why? They aren't that much more money in the grand scheme of things and if you do happen to get a bad AM bearing, it's not exactly a quick and easy fix. I'm not against AM parts for many things, but certain things I go with what gives me the most peace of mind that I won't have a premature failure and have to go through the whole rebuild again. It may not be the right choice per say, but it's the choice I make.
 

Adirondackstihl

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I'll use SKF, Fafnir, slacker, NTN etc.....
Except in situations where the saw manufacturer has a proprietary bearing (1128 pto bearing for example).
In that case, I go with OEM.
 

jacob j.

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Using the term "OEM" vs. "Aftermarket" in the saw world for bearings is kind of moot, since all OPE manufacturers source bearings from many companies. I have seen Stihl use: NTN, Fafnir, slacker, Nachi, SKF, and SNR in chainsaws, brush cutters/weed eaters, backpack blowers, and other equipment. I've seen Husqvarna use slacker, SKF, Fafnir, and NTN. they've even used different brands of bearings in the same model of saw, depending on where it was manufactured.
 

Adirondackstihl

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Using the term "OEM" vs. "Aftermarket" in the saw world for bearings is kind of moot, since all OPE manufacturers source bearings from many companies. I have seen Stihl use: NTN, Fafnir, slacker, Nachi, SKF, and SNR in chainsaws, brush cutters/weed eaters, backpack blowers, and other equipment. I've seen Husqvarna use slacker, SKF, Fafnir, and NTN. they've even used different brands of bearings in the same model of saw, depending on where it was manufactured.
Zactly!
Why pay $20 when you can get the same bearing for $8.
And I've seen mis-matched bearings in the same saw as well.
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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I get what you guys are laying down. I should have been more clear, aftermarket sources that sell well known quality bearings is one thing and a non issue. I won't buy bearings of Chinese or otherwise unknown origin. About the best way I know of to avoid that is to buy oem.

My experience with Chinese saw parts is virtually zero, but I've wrenched on a few Chinese ATVs over the last few years and while I give them credit for a good try in copying the old Hondas, it's easy to see the quality isn't on par with Honda stuff...Price of the parts does reflect that accordingly though
 

Terry Syd

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I bought a 390 kit for my 029. In the kit was a set of main bearings - 8 ball and steel cage.

I didn't put them in at first, but then I finally figured out that the stock bearings - 7 ball and plastic cage were worn out and causing my air leak.

Tore the engine down again and put in the Chinese 8 ball bearings - fixed problem. If I ever work on one of these saws again, I will pull off the stock 7 ball bearings and put on Chinese 8 ball bearings. Just because something is OEM doesn't necessarily mean it is the better choice.
 

Sty57

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I've got a few of these in my saws.
There cheap from Fastenal and Chinese.
If they come apart so be it.....I don't care, I'll just rebuild them again.
3e59dd1ca054ec48357e8b6d58c5ee5b.jpg
 

Stump Shot

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I try and look at bearing replacement this way, on the older "firewood" type of saw that is not going to be spinning a very high RPM I'll go with the Cross or FarmerTec bearings. Newer "Pro" builds get SKF and the others previously mentioned. Where the dividing line is may be a bit fuzzy at times as well. I've also been putting Chinese bearings in my own saws just to see what they'll take, so far so good. The biggest beef I have with the cheap bearings is on sealed units(for other applications) a total lack of lubrication, I've been putting guide bearings on the sawmill four at a time. I finally popped the seal off of a new one and made that discovery, so there I am packing grease into a brand new sealed bearing like an idiot...
 

Sty57

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I try and look at bearing replacement this way, on the older "firewood" type of saw that is not going to be spinning a very high RPM I'll go with the Cross or FarmerTec bearings. Newer "Pro" builds get SKF and the others previously mentioned. Where the dividing line is may be a bit fuzzy at times as well. I've also been putting Chinese bearings in my own saws just to see what they'll take, so far so good. The biggest beef I have with the cheap bearings is on sealed units(for other applications) a total lack of lubrication, I've been putting guide bearings on the sawmill four at a time. I finally popped the seal off of a new one and made that discovery, so there I am packing grease into a brand new sealed bearing like an idiot...
I have some them BL bearings in my 372 & 357 so I'll see how long they last.

I have a 51 I'll be doing next to get them.
 
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