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  1. nsafford

    nsafford New OPE Member

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    Still trying to do a 50:1 660 build, if I change to a oem sthil piston, pin, bearing, and a lower crank bearing, does anyone think that this would work for what sthil says should be a 50:1 saw. thanks
     
  2. cre73

    cre73 Well-Known OPE Member

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    Not exactly sure what your asking. When I built mine I used a OEM wrist pin bearing and cir-clips that hold the wrist pin in. I do not believe that you can change the connecting rod bearing. I run 40-1 in mine. Have multiple tanks through it both milling and bucking. Still makes me smile. I’m sure other guys are running 50-1 in theirs.
     
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  3. nsafford

    nsafford New OPE Member

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    wrist pin bearing, cir clips. did you also use the piston, or buy a oem piston
     
  4. cre73

    cre73 Well-Known OPE Member

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    Used the piston that was supplied in the kit. 175-180 compression
     
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  5. MustangMike

    MustangMike ONE OF THE GREATEST!

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    OEM wrist pin bearing and clips, and I like the Cross P+C. I run Saber at 40:1 in all my saws. I've done a decent amount of milling with these things, and they seem to hold up just fine.
     
  6. nsafford

    nsafford New OPE Member

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    Finished My 660 build. found that the cylinder was real nice, no sharp edges, just like it should be. did find that the small screw that holds the metal cover over the chain adjuster was too big, touches the chain bar and prevents the bar from moving back or forward. OEM screw lots smaller, works perfect. also had trouble with on/off flat metal switch, what a piece of junk. my plastic cowl has a marked out spot for a on/off switch, did these saws have a good switch at one time? is their a positive switch available or should the OEM flat metal switch be installed? hate to have a hard time turning this saw off, especially when one is trying to adjust it for the first time. Thanks.
     
  7. MustangMike

    MustangMike ONE OF THE GREATEST!

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    I think the on/off you are referring to refers to heated handle saws.

    If you make sure the metal is installed properly in back of the control lever, I have not had problems with them not shutting off. But, they often don't come "right".
     
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