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  1. nsafford

    nsafford OPE Member

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    Still trying to do a 50:1 660 build, if I change to a oem sthil piston, pin, bearing, and a lower crank bearing, does anyone think that this would work for what sthil says should be a 50:1 saw. thanks
     
  2. cre73

    cre73 Well-Known OPE Member

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    Not exactly sure what your asking. When I built mine I used a OEM wrist pin bearing and cir-clips that hold the wrist pin in. I do not believe that you can change the connecting rod bearing. I run 40-1 in mine. Have multiple tanks through it both milling and bucking. Still makes me smile. I’m sure other guys are running 50-1 in theirs.
     
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  3. nsafford

    nsafford OPE Member

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    wrist pin bearing, cir clips. did you also use the piston, or buy a oem piston
     
  4. cre73

    cre73 Well-Known OPE Member

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    Used the piston that was supplied in the kit. 175-180 compression
     
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  5. MustangMike

    MustangMike ONE OF THE GREATEST!

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    OEM wrist pin bearing and clips, and I like the Cross P+C. I run Saber at 40:1 in all my saws. I've done a decent amount of milling with these things, and they seem to hold up just fine.
     
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  6. nsafford

    nsafford OPE Member

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    Finished My 660 build. found that the cylinder was real nice, no sharp edges, just like it should be. did find that the small screw that holds the metal cover over the chain adjuster was too big, touches the chain bar and prevents the bar from moving back or forward. OEM screw lots smaller, works perfect. also had trouble with on/off flat metal switch, what a piece of junk. my plastic cowl has a marked out spot for a on/off switch, did these saws have a good switch at one time? is their a positive switch available or should the OEM flat metal switch be installed? hate to have a hard time turning this saw off, especially when one is trying to adjust it for the first time. Thanks.
     
  7. MustangMike

    MustangMike ONE OF THE GREATEST!

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    I think the on/off you are referring to refers to heated handle saws.

    If you make sure the metal is installed properly in back of the control lever, I have not had problems with them not shutting off. But, they often don't come "right".
     
  8. nsafford

    nsafford OPE Member

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    completed 2 660 builds, and both seem to leak or seep gas when not running. seems to be coming from the fuel hose that goes to the carb, but at the tank fitting. cannot just set it in the sun and watch it for a hour at a time. fuel runs down the handle. dryed it off 3 times, but really dont see it leaking., just see it wet. I am thinking the chinese rubber hose may be too large or too soft compaired to the stihl fuel hose. any one else had this problem?
    Also had problems getting the round large gear for the chain adjuster to fit down in the hole in the case. it just shaves off aluminum when turned. cannot see any other way to get it down and seated, just had to keep on screwing it down and removing the aluminum with a little brush. is this normal also?
     
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  9. nsafford

    nsafford OPE Member

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    Does anyone make a stihl weed wacker clone kit?
     
  10. MustangMike

    MustangMike ONE OF THE GREATEST!

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    Check 3 things with the fuel leak:

    1) The fitting that connects the upper + lower fuel line is often not inserted right, and will leak,

    2) As you mention, where the fuel line connects to the carb may also leak (not sure what carb you are using, but the AM carbs have a larger fitting for the fuel line than other carbs).

    3) Pressure test your carb. If the lever is set too high, or if the plunger does not seal, it will leak fuel.

    Chain Adjusters:

    1) Yes, the Asian case needs to be clearanced a bit, their large gear is a little larger than OEM.

    2) Often the shaft for the small gear has some play in it and needs a shim so the gears do not lock up. I took the foil from the top of my bar oil container and cut a thin strip and put the axle down on top of it (so it is under bottom and both sides), then trim the excess. Seems to be working well so far. Lube well!

    Also, the fuel caps on the Asian 660s seem to always leak. I replace the rubber flat washer with a tight fitting O ring (get them at an auto parts store) and that usually solves the problem. (OEM caps work even better).

    Welcome to the site, and good luck with it. Tell us what work (or not) for ya!
     
  11. nsafford

    nsafford OPE Member

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    Thanks for the speedy reply, appreciate it.!!
    what lever? you mean the one on the outside of the carb?what gets adjusted, the wire or the flat metal piece the wire fits into also what plunger? this is a hultz kit, have no idea what kind of carb they use, I assume the carb is the same style as stihl. did not take it apart yet, hopeing the fuel line will fix the leak.
     
  12. MustangMike

    MustangMike ONE OF THE GREATEST!

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    This one. One of my Huztl carbs (I have done 3 of them) came with this adjusted too high, and you could not pull the motor over. Adjusted it flush to the sides and it was fine (flush to the inside surfaces, use a little straight edge to check, like the end of a paint stirrer or ruler).

    Take the top of the carb off (part with snorkel) to access it. When you put it back together, pressure test it to 10 lbs.
     
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  13. MustangMike

    MustangMike ONE OF THE GREATEST!

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    The good news, the nipple for the fuel line on the Huztl carbs is a little larger than other carbs, so it is likely not leaking there.
     
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