Keeping bar level

[66Fleetside]

I kinda suck at getting the bottom of my face cut level. And also suck at getting the back cut level or at least in the same general plane.

Any tips other than just more practice?

 

[Al Smith]

It doesn't have to be perfect .If will go almost always where you aim it .

 

[FergusonTO35]

I kinda suck at getting the bottom of my face cut level. And also suck at getting the back cut level or at least in the same general plane.

Any tips other than just more practice?

I gave up a long time ago. All my cuts look like someone was trying out a miter saw. Still results in wood in the stove so I don't worry about it.

 

[Hinerman]

I kinda suck at getting the bottom of my face cut level. And also suck at getting the back cut level or at least in the same general plane.

Any tips other than just more practice?

I gave up a long time ago. All my cuts look like someone was trying out a miter saw. Still results in wood in the stove so I don't worry about it.

^^^^Same here. Occasionally the stars align and one looks decent. I am amazed when I see the stumps of some of the professionals, especially on some of those big trees.

 

[Ronie]

My cuts are the same and the bigger the tree the worse it looks.

 

[MG2186]

I thought I was the only one that did this! Still wish I was better! When everything lines up it just looks so nice and looks like you really know what you’re doing!

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I found… holding the saw by the handle. Then depending on the length of bar is on the saw. I'd push the rear handle down till it looked almost level.. then I’d check it by either getting someone else to hold a level up to it ot pr by holding it next to a know level surface.


After a while you get a muscle memory to it.. the only problem was when using different ar lengths.
But all it took was some more practice with the bigger bar, and checking it against thae known level surface.

so when at a tree I’d just look at the bar an think what muscle memory was needed, and check.. my brain was working correctly.

then hopefully it worked out …well almost

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Sidewalk chalk , you can buy at a dollar store or anywhere really.
When teaching a class I can mark even a ruff bar tree wiyh chalk for students to follow until they get a feel for the saw.
I still use it myself for trees over 36" inches or multiple target trees.
But as many have stated alittle crooked doesn't seem to matter some what.
Using your sights will also help, they are supposed to be a 90° angle to the bar.

 

[Woodpecker]

When I get a saw newb I have them practice with one of these stuck to the bar

has 2 really powerful rare earth magnets on the back and is small enough to be tucked out of the way on the bar. The spirit level rotates. I have them practice using it to hold the chainsaw/bar level. It really helps to develop that muscle memory quickly. He11 I’ll sometimes use it if I’m learning a saw I’m not familiar with.

 

[huskyhank]

I find it easier with bigger saws and longer bars. Seems like I can feel level better.

 

[Hinerman]

I find it easier with bigger saws and longer bars. Seems like I can feel level better.

Good Lord not me. You put a big saw/bar in my hands and it looks like I was standing in a canoe, in the ocean, when I make my cuts. I need to hit the weight room...

 

[Hinerman]

I thought I was the only one that did this!

Me too, I feel a smidge better now...

 

[Kerfed]

For matching back cut a trick is to focus and point the bar tip at the far corner of the undercut. Practice is pretty much the ticket, when you notice a cut become wonky…stop and fix it. Low backcut, creating a dutchman, having an uneven hinge etc should be strived to avoid as uncontrolled felling is damn dangerous. “Fundamentals of Treework” by Jerry Beranek is back in print and a good reference.

 

[66Fleetside]

Shoot, I thought I was just a total moron for not getting this right. It’s helpful to know that others are similarly afflicted.

Appreciate all the comments. I figured it was a muscle memory thing. My approach thus far was trying to let the saw hang loosely from my hand and find a spot where it levels itself. Some cuts are better than others.

I also kinda suck at consistently getting the ends of logs square whilst bucking. A pet peeve. Looks so much better stacked when it’s square.

 

[huskyboy]

I kinda suck at getting the bottom of my face cut level. And also suck at getting the back cut level or at least in the same general plane.

Any tips other than just more practice?

Start by working on getting your face cut level. If the face isn’t level it’ll screw you up on your back cut. Think of the face as the foundation for the rest of your work. Also a bar/chain that are cutting spot on are important and make it much easier to do good work. Practice makes perfect as well. Really simple stuffs. No need to overthink it.

 

[Infinitejest]

The gunning sights are there for a reason.
When the one on the cylinder shroud is perpendicular to the ground (if you have the luxury of flat ground), your bar is level.
Matching the back cut to the face starts with a level face. Dog in behind the face with the saw level and proceed. After a while it just becomes automatic.
Like someone else said, being a stump butcher can be a safety issue. If everything is good, it should lay out exactly where you gunned it.

 

[66Fleetside]

Good point. Guess I never thought about using that sight that way. I use the flywheel sight to aim the tree of course.

I guess that top sight could be brought in parallel with the tree trunk and more or less level the cut too.

 

[davidwyby]

I thought about attaching a level to the 90* handle on my Jreds…

 

[davidwyby]

…but I just go slow and stop and check plenty, lay it out by scoring with the bar tip first, then check and correct, etc.

 

[pwheel]

Try scribing a line around the tree with the saw where you plan to make your cut as a reference. Otherwise, I think it's a matter of practice.