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Husqvarna problems 372 X-torqs & 570-576's

Cutmaster

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tree monkey That's what I was hoping to hear!
Would you use the 372xpw cylinder kits $300 each, or use Meteor cylinder kits $120 each?
Thanks Scott~~!!!
 

idiotwithasaw

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Also take out the division in the air horn. With a muff mod and a black coil it would work and be cheaper because you are using what you have. The rwj-4 is slightly larger than the hd-12. Like replacing a two barrel with a four barrel.
 

idiotwithasaw

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The boot is slightly bigger on the 390. You can make it work but I would rather just make the 372 boot work. I feel it's less of a chance of an air leak. Also I can't take credit for the idea of turning the boot. @Mastermind taught me about it. Apparently that's how he does it when he puts one in.

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pro94lt

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Sure blows that you need to go back to an older design on your newer saws to make them run right and last, what's that saying for technology!

I don't think theirs anything wrong with the xt 372 saws, theirs just to many running everyday and have been now for several years, me included... Theirs something wrong with his obviously, and it's something he or his guys haven't picked up on yet. Or maybe he bought all these saws in a lot of a large quantity and he's seing the same issues on multiple saws. Let's look at the 562xp and 550xp. When mine are hot they almost never will start unless you put the choke on fast idle. Take a seasoned professional who's started a saw 5 days a week for 25 years he's going to expect it to start just like the saws did for 25 years... I almost through both of mine out of the tree when I first got them. My first thought was this new technology sucks! Turns out I didn't know how to start them. Do you put them on fast idle when restarting them? Also with my xt 372 I couldn't imagine running it within the limits of the factory carb settings, I would have put 100$ on it it would have seized up the rings due to how lean it was running, almost as bad as the echoes.


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pro94lt

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awol

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There are a bunch of 372xt saws working all day every day here, in much hotter conditions with no running or starting issues, and surprisingly long lived. Every one I have sold was set far to lean out of the box.
 

Ron660

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I know a Logger that only uses 372's. He said they last between 3-4 years. He also told me last week he's been burning two gallons of fuel in his 372 a day felling and bucking both soft and hardwoods. He prefers 372's over 440's. He said his brother, also a Logger, prefers 440's and lasts about 2 years.
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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FWIW, my brother (XP-Slinger) owns a 372XT. He noticed that when stock it didn't like to start with the decomp, and the idle was a little erratic.

After he did a base gasket delete, muff mod, and matched the lower transfers to the case the saw starts and idles good and proper. IDK if the increased compression helped with the idle, but I would say that was instrumental in it now being much easier to start using the decomp.

395xp is still old school too isn't it??
 

XP_Slinger

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FWIW, my brother (XP-Slinger) owns a 372XT. He noticed that when stock it didn't like to start with the decomp, and the idle was a little erratic.

After he did a base gasket delete, muff mod, and matched the lower transfers to the case the saw starts and idles good and proper. IDK if the increased compression helped with the idle, but I would say that was instrumental in it now being much easier to start using the decomp.

395xp is still old school too isn't it??

All of the above really helped tame my XT. That saw would not start cold or hot using the decompressor before I deleted the base gasket. Now it starts as it should, 3 to 4 pulls cold, one pull when it's hot. I have also heard that putting a decomp from a smaller saw like a 357 cures it as well. Another thing you can do to help the idle is gut the strato dividers out of the filter mount, carb and intake. This will get fuel into the strato charge and let you take advantage of the large venturi in the carb. Gives you a little more grunt also. Should we have to do these things to a saw to make it run right? No. But as with any new design there are growing pains that guys like us find ways to get past. I'm happy to do it as I didn't have the option of buying an OE 372 by the time I had a need for a 70cc saw. I can definitely say that I am not dissatisfied with my XT.

As mentioned in previous posts the XT isn't as good a platform for racing as the OE, which makes sense. Lighter piston combined with higher rpms equals more chain speed. From what I've learned you don't want an XT turning more than 13,000 no load rpm. Unlike an OE that some builders have turning 12,500 in the cut and upwards of 14,500 no load rpm. I don't have any experience in comparing a ported OE to a XT but I do know that my XT pulls in big wood pretty well. My brother (Ride-Red350R) has an OE XPW 75cc. We were cutting a 30"+ soft maple and I grabbed his saw to compare after cutting with my XT. Fully prepared to hate my saw after running his "dubya" I was surprised that I felt no real difference between the two. Please don't take that as any kind of proclamation about an XT out cutting an OE, it is just what I perceived going from one to another. Both saws were stock at the time.

I'm still learning on the XT and if I come across any other tweaks that improve how it runs I'll be sure to post them up.
 

XP_Slinger

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I haven't learned enough about porting to attempt it on my 72 yet. I need to pick up a little homeowner and start experimenting. So for now, I'm sticking to bolt stuff on or take stuff out mods. The only grinding I've done is reshaping the lower transfers.
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