Husky 2100 - stripped hole, repair issue

[hacskaroly]

I purchased a full wrap handle for my 2100, when I went to install it, I found that someone before me had stripped out one of the holes on the saw body and made a plug for it (Looks like they tried to hold it in with silicone). I imagine over time with the way this think may vibrate, that the plug has loosed up. When I go to install the screw, the plug just spins in and out. What are some options you guys have used to keep plugs like in place? Not sure if welding would be a good choice, but I don't have access to a welder. Would JB Weld hold it or Locktite? Other options? Thanks for any input!

 

[Squareground3691]

I purchased a full wrap handle for my 2100, when I went to install it, I found that someone before me had stripped out one of the holes on the saw body and made a plug for it (Looks like they tried to hold it in with silicone). I imagine over time with the way this think may vibrate, that the plug has loosed up. When I go to install the screw, the plug just spins in and out. What are some options you guys have used to keep plugs like in place? Not sure if welding would be a good choice, but I don't have access to a welder. Would JB Weld hold it or Locktite? Other options? Thanks for any input!

View attachment 406290

Time - sert or Heli coil ,

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

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www.timesert.com

 

[beaglebriar]

If it were mine I’d ask Shaun to take a look at it and see if he could fix it properly. @srcarr52

Looks like it would be easy to weld up, drill and tap.

 

[legdelimber]

Is there room to slip a nut behind the tab where the hole is? and support it?
Will thw surface shape allow it
I'd say try the JB weld but that could be tough application for it.
Cleanup and surface prep is always critical for any glue or epoxy!

All that said?
Danged if Scarr52 work doesn't come out looking nicely done when I see it here.

 

[Shane¹]

Does that insert still thread in tight? If so I would put some green loctite on it and it will probably hold it forever

 

[hacskaroly]

I appreciate the comments so far, I tried drilling out a busted screw on another saw and that didn't go so well, figured it would be best to ask the experts before just jumping into this and making it worse or gluing my fingers together...

Does that insert still thread in tight? If so I would put some green loctite on it and it will probably hold it forever

It does screw in, but wobbles a little. Hard to describe and will try to get a picture, but it isn't solid in the hole, the threads only go in about 1/8 of an inch and then one side opens up with threads only on one side. I think I will take the fuel tank off and see what I can from the back side. Should have done that to begin with, but didn't think of it until now.

 

[Junk Meister]

Is there room to slip a nut behind the tab where the hole is? and support it?
Will thw surface shape allow it
I'd say try the JB weld but that could be tough application for it.
Cleanup and surface prep is always critical for any glue or epoxy!

All that said?
Danged if Scarr52 work doesn't come out looking nicely done when I see it here.

Most of his videos I see are even PAINTED .BUT Is this piece the tank? Or a case half so needing to be split ? I am not familiar with 2100 saws. And the other hole may be compromised after carrying all of the load for 2 screws and need checked.. A PM/Phone call is a good start.

 

[drf256]

Any reason you can’t drill and tap a hole next to it, and drill the handle for the new hole as well?

JB weld will not hold up in anything that needs strength. It doesn’t have much shear strength.

 

[Agrarian]

Since this hole has already been enlarged for the current insert, a standard TimeSert will not work. However they make a product called BigSert which is designed to fix a buggered up hole that had previously been repaired with a helicoil (also enlarged). That could be an option if this hole is not already larger than the drill size of the BigSert.

 

[BuffaloBill]

I would drill that hole and thread it for a larger size bolt. May need a bottoming tap if it isn’t a through- hole. Make out of a grade 2 bolt, your own insert, drilling and taping it for the original fastener, etc. Best done on a lathe, but could be done without if necessary. Red loctite the insert in the saw.

 

[Shane¹]

I would drill that hole and thread it for a larger size bolt. May need a bottoming tap if it isn’t a through- hole. Make out of a grade 2 bolt, your own insert, drilling and taping it for the original fastener, etc. Best done on a lathe, but could be done without if necessary. Red loctite the insert in the saw.

This is a great option there is enough material there I would try this if it doesn't work it's just a little more filler when welding to fill it in

 

[hacskaroly]

BUT Is this piece the tank? Or a case half so needing to be split ?

Yes, this is a piece of the tank, cannot be split (easily) as it has been welded together. Basically a one-piece gas/oil tank that drops away from the main chassis with the motor.

Any reason you can’t drill and tap a hole next to it, and drill the handle for the new hole as well?

JB weld will not hold up in anything that needs strength. It doesn’t have much shear strength.

Good to know about JB weld, will avoid it for this application. Unfortunately I don't think I can drill and tap as where you indicated, I pulled the tank off of the chassis to see from another angle what was going on and found there is no access from behind. I started picking the silicone out of the hole to determine how much space is behind it and discovered that the silicone is there because the previous owner tapped right into the oil tank...

I was shaking out the loose silicone and the bar/chain oil cap retainer came out, I knew it was in there some where, I could hear it but not see it due to the oil tank configuration, but this confirmed that the hole taps into the oil tank. I think the metal on the two sides were the original screws are located are in thicker metal and it is thinner towards the center.

Best done on a lathe

I wish I had a lathe and the experience to use it correctly! I have seen many neat things on the forum here that people have done with them.

This is a great option there is enough material there I would try this if it doesn't work it's just a little more filler when welding to fill it in

Looks like the best bet here will probably be to try to fill it in (build it up welding) and then retap it.

 

[Junk Meister]

Yes, this is a piece of the tank, cannot be split (easily) as it has been welded together. Basically a one-piece gas/oil tank that drops away from the main chassis with the motor.

Good to know about JB weld, will avoid it for this application. Unfortunately I don't think I can drill and tap as where you indicated, I pulled the tank off of the chassis to see from another angle what was going on and found there is no access from behind. I started picking the silicone out of the hole to determine how much space is behind it and discovered that the silicone is there because the previous owner tapped right into the oil tank...
View attachment 406486
I was shaking out the loose silicone and the bar/chain oil cap retainer came out, I knew it was in there some where, I could hear it but not see it due to the oil tank configuration, but this confirmed that the hole taps into the oil tank. I think the metal on the two sides were the original screws are located are in thicker metal and it is thinner towards the center.


I wish I had a lathe and the experience to use it correctly! I have seen many neat things on the forum here that people have done with them.

Looks like the best bet here will probably be to try to fill it in (build it up welding) and then retap it.

 

[Junk Meister]

Just a thought-- Anyway possible to make an adapter with a shoulder that could be pulled/fished through from tank side, then Jb weld or Q Bond to hold said threaded plug adapter in place? like weld a washer to one end of your malfunctioning insert.. Maybe a few buggers tacked on bad repair so it makes a tighter fit and prevents it from spinning, Then You could suck/draw it out of the tank with a bolt of the right thread (longer too) and a standoff to pull it through. Washer will need to be flat on one side 'cuz the hole is so close to side of tank.
Like I said just a thought and if it stimulates an idea that works so much the better. Welding is the ultimate fix. Good luck with what ever you decide.

 

[Shane¹]

I don't see why you couldn't do what @BuffaloBill said and tap it then drill and tap a bolt you could definitely do it with just a hand drill in a vise and a tap set just drill and tap the bolt first and if you mess the bolt up no biggie

 

[hacskaroly]

Like I said just a thought and if it stimulates an idea that works so much the better

I appreciate the advice, I will have to look into that. Where the hole is compared to where the fill cap is will make this challenging, but not impossible. The pic below shows the fuel/oil tank. The oil fill is the lower cap, but the tapped hole is at the front in between the front AV mounts.

I don't see why you couldn't do what @BuffaloBill said and tap it then drill and tap a bolt you could definitely do it with just a hand drill in a vise and a tap set just drill and tap the bolt first and if you mess the bolt up no biggie

I went back and reread what @BuffaloBill said...and now I understand what he was saying. This makes sense now. I will need to get a tap set to do this, another tool for the work bench. Definitely makes sense to buy a couple of bolts and if I mess up one, chuck it and start on another - chock it up to practice if I screw up on it!

 

[Junk Meister]

Is a 2100 tank aluminum or Magnesium? You did say it is welded together not a gasket and 2 halves. My Stihl 056 tanks are gasket between 2 halves.

 

[hacskaroly]

Is a 2100 tank aluminum or Magnesium?

From the documents I have seen it is die-cast Magnesium. Yes, welded together. I got this one to replace one that the handle was crushed .

 

[legdelimber]

How thick or thin does the tank look around the hole where the cap retainer is dangling?
Looks like there might have been some metal worn away and could be a bigger area needs to be welded back in, rather than just plugging the hole.