How to square file

[Duce]

View attachment 312984

I purchased a nice vise similar to that, same brand, got tired of breaking cheap ones.

 

[RI Chevy]

I think you'd get an even better corner if you used a chain vise Mike. No movement. Much more precise.

 

[MustangMike]

My system works for me Jeff, waste too much time taking the chain off.

I put a stump vice on the bar, put the saw on my wooden chainsaw box, and move around both sides with my mechanic stool.

Fast and easy. Do one side first, then the other.

 

[RI Chevy]

OK...

 

[mettee]

Thats not the only kind of therapy you need brother...[emoji1787]

I can't afford any other kind

 

[mettee]

I think John Reilly does it the same way too.

Thats where I think I saw it at.

 

[PA Dan]

Thats where I think I saw it at.

You are correct...

 

[mettee]

I do it on the bar, no race chain, just work chain, but I can do it just as fast as round.

On the bar is good, if you have good angles already you can bang through it. That's how I started doing it. Moved to the single tooth because I think I get it perfect.

It's just time, which I have when I'm in the man cave.

 

[mettee]

You are correct...

You shut up...

...and huskys stink

 

[mettee]

I think you'd get an even better corner if you used a chain vise Mike. No movement. Much more precise.

I don't get any movement. And the tooth is in the same place every time, so muscle memory and file stroke is honed in.

The chain vice is super nice if you want to go faster and have more teeth lined up.

 

[PA Dan]

He was talking about Mike doing it in the bar.

 

[PA Dan]

You shut up...

...and huskys stink

Your just saying that cause they will spank your dollys!

 

[mettee]

Hr was talking about Mike doing it in the bar.

I did it in a bar one time...

 

[mettee]

Your just saying that cause they will spank your dollys!

I'm saying that because they are janky feeling and they sound like the Jetsons car

 

[RI Chevy]

Hr was talking about Mike doing it in the bar.

Yes.

 

[mettee]

Yes.

Yes

 

[RI Chevy]

Yes

Yes

 

[ZERO]

The inside top plate = the angle down (this just removes the chips unless you are milling)

The Inside Side Plate = the angle back (this is the most important angle as it cuts the wood fibers during a cross cut)

Putting a 45* tilt on the file will produce the other angles.

If the outside side plate is not less than 90*, the chain will not self feed well.

If you "rock" a corner (even with just a tiny pebble), your chain will not cut right until you file it out.

Full Chisel Round (like Stihl RS) is easy to convert to square. (On the East Coast, square file chain is hard to find).

Gents after giving it a long hard thought, I have to self report, the double bevel files have arrived. I have a new mountain to climb. In the beginning it is definitely harder than I thought, all I need is patience and the will to get through my mistakes.

Gents everyone has their system, but the vice from @Homelite410 is a godsend for me, tooth locks in perfectly without any movement.

Mike I wanted to ask about the top plate or per Madesen's drawing the Top Outside Plate.

Are there good angles for work cutting, ripping, and how much it too much where no gains will be achieved.

I will be hand filing, I will most likely have some variations from tooth to tooth. Would those variations from tooth to tooth if too large or inconsistent cause any chattering or reduced cutting experience?

 

[huskihl]

Gents after giving it a long hard thought, I have to self report, the double bevel files have arrived. I have a new mountain to climb. In the beginning it is definitely harder than I thought, all I need is patience and the will to get through my mistakes.

Gents everyone has their system, but the vice from @Homelite410 is a godsend for me, tooth locks in perfectly without any movement.

Mike I wanted to ask about the top plate or per Madesen's drawing the Top Outside Plate.

Are there good angles for work cutting, ripping, and how much it too much where no gains will be achieved.

I will be hand filing, I will most likely have some variations from tooth to tooth. Would those variations from tooth to tooth if too large or inconsistent cause any chattering or reduced cutting experience?

The angle that you see looking down at the top of the chain pretty much is what it is because the other angles are more important. The top angle will also change with different brands of files, as the bevel sides are different angles for some manufacturers. You need to get the file pointed down enough (more blunt) so that the cutter stays sharp longer, and adjust your file roll so that you have 0-3° of forward lean. This usually leaves about a 15° top plate

 

[MustangMike]

What Kevin says, plus:

45* for all 3 angles is generally good for hardwood and for milling. Dropping the rakers a bit extra also helps for milling (the feed is not the same).

If you get it "close", square file is generally smooth.

In hardwood, the steeper angles may cut faster but will not stay sharp as long, in softwood the steeper angles are advantageous.

Square takes a bit of practice, partly getting used to new angles (we have a tendency to go back to what we are used to).

After you get used to it, the file will fall in place like a ball in a glove.