Helping a friend

[Dustin4185]

A friend of mine knows that I have been hoarding a few 026s. His had an accident with a tree that his dad cut without seeing his saw laying there. It busted the handle and tank on his (I haven't looked at it for sure). I have a handle/tank that I am going to give him and do the work and only charge him for the parts we need.

The IPL shows 2 fuel lines, straight and S shaped. I remember a thread about this at one point, but can't find it. I think the s shaped one has to have the tank modified to work. Which one is best to use?

Also, do build this one (unknown condition but it is a 194) or just stick his back on? The dealer has kits in stock along with the s shaped fuel line, impulse line and intake boot. Am I missing anything that needs replaced on the tank section?

Thanks

 

[NCFarmboy]

I would go ahead and put a new kit in the carb. I don't remember size to drill hole in tank to use the S line. There is a link somewhere.
Shep

 

[Dustin4185]

I can always measure the new line and go from there. I think I will put a kit in this carb and have it ready to go on. We live about an hour from each other and I plan on throwing it together at a meeting for work. If that doesn't work, I will bring it back with me. Sometimes it sucks living in the middle of nowhere!

 

[drf256]

The S line is better because it makes fuel filter swaps easier and is more readily available. They came factory with both lines, the straight one being on the earlier models.

I don’t remember the size of the hole that needs to be drilled either. Measure the area on the new line that sits on the tank opening with a caliper and undersize the drill bit by .060 roughly. Make sure it doesn’t fit as is First.

If the 194 runs, I wouldn’t rebuild it.

 

[stihl_head1982]

Another thing I've done with this model is use the 038 S shaped line as a replacement. It has a tapered grommet to go into the tank and is an easier install.
Just be careful with placement as it goes into the carb inlet. The old style filter will push up against it but not hinder flow in any way.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I always replace the line with whatever was originally in it. Simple enough.

 

[Dustin4185]

I drilled it out and installed the S shaped one. I measured it and made it undersized enough to seal. I picked up a kit for the 194, but I will probably just swap his over since it is a known runner.

On a side note, where does everyone get the long T27 bits for impact drivers?

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I drilled it out and installed the S shaped one. I measured it and made it undersized enough to seal. I picked up a kit for the 194, but I will probably just swap his over since it is a known runner.

On a side note, where does everyone get the long T27 bits for impact drivers?

Mine are Snap-On

 

[cus_deluxe]

I think nate at performance outdoor equipment has em.

 

[NCFarmboy]

I got mine on Ebay pkg of 6 were only 2 bucks more than price for one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Irwin-9337...d=332369078325&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850
Shep

 

[stihl_head1982]

I drilled it out and installed the S shaped one. I measured it and made it undersized enough to seal. I picked up a kit for the 194, but I will probably just swap his over since it is a known runner.

On a side note, where does everyone get the long T27 bits for impact drivers?

Buy a WIHA, they sell them on line. I've had the same one to use on saws for years. They are very durable. I bought several cheapees and all of them gave up rather quickly.
Now I have the WIHA "T handle" and the one for my impact. All is well.

 

[Dustin4185]

Buy a WIHA, they sell them on line. I've had the same one to use on saws for years. They are very durable. I bought several cheapees and all of them gave up rather quickly.
Now I have the WIHA "T handle" and the one for my impact. All is well.

I have their T handle set of chainsaw tools. I bought them from HL Supply. I wish they carried the impact bits.

 

[Basher]

WIHA all the way.

 

[Dustin4185]

Well, I got his saw last night. Only damage was to the tank and handle. I need to have a word with him about "how to maintain a saw"! The fins around the cylinder were 50% blocked, recoil was 50% clogged up, air filter would have been clogged but it was missing the flocking. It also had a bad coil wire with tape around it, 2 broke AV mounts, and the bar plate was buggered up. The bar rails are to the point that I don't know if I can salvage them.

He mentioned that it cut crooked and he couldn't keep e clips and washers on the clutch drum, so I pulled it. The needle bearing was missing 8 needles! The drum moved in and out 1/4". Luckily the crank seems fine. The rim sprocket looks original and is worn out as well.

I was able to salvage some AV mounts from the same parts saw as well as the bar plate and coil wire. I didn't realize the wires unscrewed until I tried it.

I cleaned and rebuilt his carb and installed the new fuel line, fuel filter impulse line, and intake boot. I donated a new fleece style filter since I have three of the fine mesh winter filters for my saws.

This gentleman is a great friend and fellow game warden and I love him like a brother, but he doesn't deserve a 026 if he is going to treat her that way! We had a long conversation today about treating her right.

 

[Dustin4185]

Okay, I ran this saw some this afternoon. Runs okay but it seems to bog in bigger wood 12" stuff. New chain and slightly used bar. It's almost as if the clutch is slipping. I'm new to a lot of this stuff, so how do I know for sure. The old drum was full of black dust.

I also can't get the chain to stop spinning even with the LA backed off and the carb adjusted right. It's like the clutch is still engaging. Do I swap a good used OEM clutch or buy one, or go aftermarket?

 

[psuiewalsh]

If the clutch shoes holes are not too worn OEM clutch springs may solve it. They can be cheap at the dealer. Also the crank seals may be leaking. It seems like most 026 flywheel side go bad.

 

[Dustin4185]

If the clutch shoes holes are not too worn OEM clutch springs may solve it. They can be cheap at the dealer. Also the crank seals may be leaking. It seems like most 026 flywheel side go bad.

Can you replace the seals without splitting th case?

 

[stihl_head1982]

Can you replace the seals without splitting th case?

Yes you can replace the seals without splitting the case. There should be a thread or 2 here somewhere.
I have the Stihl seal removal tool -- but lots of guys use a modified screw driver for removal, and a deep well socket to tap it in for replacement.

 

[Backtroller]

Clutch springs can make a world of difference. Like it's been said, they are cheap and easy to replace.

 

[Basher]

Clutch needle bearing may need lube or replacement , best to check it as well.