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Got a tuner for the international

Absolution

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She's not so much of a dog now.

Also planning on rebuilding the motor.
Headstuds
Mainstuds
Stage 1 Cam
Ceramic coated pistons
Chromoly pushrods
160/30 single shot injectors
Mechanical lift pump delete.

Plus what I already have done/was done
5+5 billet wheel, 360 bearing
PHP Orion <- the only tuner available for the ECM
5" Donaldson straight though semi truck muffler
4" back from muffler to a stack
Bellowed up pipes
Gauges
Hpop crossover

Things I have that I need to install.
FAB up a 4" downpipe
Comp Cams Valve Springs
Regulated return
Wastegated 1.0 housing
KC big actuator
EDIT: Went to a KC300X Turbo 63/68 .84 housing


Absolutely overbuilt for just 300hp. But when I started pricing everything out I was paying about the same compared to an OEM rebuild kit...... Still more than a 5.9 12v though.....

In this video I my brother flashed it to the 275HP tune which moved the 17klbs pretty well. Downside I don't have a wastegated turbo so it was staying at or just over 30lbs of boost the whole time. I have a suspicion I put it on more of a load it would probably shoot past that and with a gtp38 and stock headbolts I don't think it would be the best idea.
I had him drop it back to 250hp until I can get back home to swap the housing.

Other absolutely massive thing about all this is it moved the RPM limiter up from 2600. I'm not sure what it's set to now but in the video you can watch it climb to 3000 rpm. Even though the paper numbers say the t444e made all its power at like 1800 rpm. It never felt like that in practice. The second it dropped below 2k the truck was done and would plummet . Maybe it was the gearing in this specific set up that caused that.

 
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Absolution

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The uppipes were a total PIA and one more shot of the muffler installed. I was actually worried about it at first as I didn't know it was a straight though design. But not only was cooler it was way quieter than the stock one.

Then also me ripping out the pintle hitch and putting a 2 1/2 box in it's place.

uppipes and ped.jpgIMG_20201202_162651.jpg 196590448_386843162739342_1777598496084036230_n.jpg 197344830_873090596887402_2643861380054012288_n.jpg
 
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Absolution

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I like the project. Reminds me of my ford f 700 chip truck. With a twin turbo 5.9 12valve cummins. Not the best pic. But you get the ideaView attachment 298322

While not a compound nor a medium duty I do also own 5.9 12 valve with a 71mm single. working on and maintaining it both financially and physically it's a better motor than a 7.3/6.0/66 or whatever other V motor you can think of.

I was actually thinking of swapping the International for a DT466 NGD and do a set of compounds. But then I remembered the transmission sat further back and I'd have to loose my center console.

Then I started thinking of a 12 valve but I didn't want to have to fab up litterally every single thing on motor.

I figured 3k or 4k in coin on a performance rebuild. Over build it with head studs and main studs. Only do 300hp and don't think about it for at least another 300k miles.
 

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jmester

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12 valves are great little engines. 7.3 and 6.0 are strong work motors as well. Your project peaked my interest because to make reliable hp in a medium duty truck is not an easy feat. Its not as plug and play as a pickup. Plus not many even try it in a medium duty. I also like the fact that you are using the motor that came in the truck. 5.9 may have been easier to build. But yours has the cool factor. In my book.

If you smile or it makes you smile while driving it. Then it was worth it to me.
 

Absolution

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jmester

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The transmission is a fuller fs6206. Just a straight 6 speed. No 2 speed rear either. I have pretty tall rear ratio at 4.88. Not good for highway but does well. On the backroads.

I thought the same thing as to switch to a 8ll or 13 or 15 speed. But the juice wasn't worth the squeeze.


I have a ford f-800 with an 8.3 that has a 4.10 rear ratio that i like a bit more. But cant say how it would do in my application as the truck is only a cab and chassis.

Rear end swaps are cheaper than a trans swap, bell housing,drive shaft and pto would have to be changed. At least in the medium duty platform.
 
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jmester

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I am at 4 gallons every service. I change mine every 3000k as it get pretty sooty. Lots of fuel makes power for sure but creates other issues that need more attention on a regular basis.

I use penngrade 1 20w-50. Expensive oil but i have had good results with it. Makes 5 more pounds of oil pressure over say rotella t 15w 40.
 

Absolution

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New spinny boi ordered!

I still have yet to drive the truck but listening to my father's experiences with it I figured it would be needed for egt sake. I'm also pretty sure the exducer in that turbo is like the turbo that was on the vans. So I wouldn't be able to swap over the rear housing. A new turbine wheel would be about $225.

So I'm just going to sell back off the stuff I bought and just be better off in the end.

Screenshot_20210629-145241__01.jpg
 
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Absolution

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Minor inconveniences. ( I foresaw some of it but my brain decided to look the other way)
While the stock turbo's compressor side is gtp38 based. The rear downpipe side is tp38 based.
Why does this matter? The stock down pipe won't let the new turbo drop in and work.....


Without me being there, I'm not sure about my father crawling under truck to do it to swap out to the new downpipe I had ordered. He said he could swap the turbo and I was already worried somewhat about that.

I'm probably going to call him today and have him to take it to a shop local for the downpipe and just have them temporally clamp the 4" downpipe to the old turbo if he really wants to do the turbo.



The old ones, (TP38) the downpipe sleeved inside the turbo exhaust housing.

Screenshot_20210704-080620__01.jpg IMG_20200920_153937__01.jpg

With the new ones (GTP38) The exhaust housing sleeves into the downpipe.

DW-1406-WORK-28__01.png 451274-0005__01.jpg
 
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Absolution

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Headstuds were delivered. They are ARP once used, But for 1/5th the price I can't complain.


IMG-20210715-WA0002__01.jpg
 

jmester

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Make sure you get the lube for those arp's to make sure you get the correct torque. But i would guess you already know that.

Looking for to seeing how this turns out for you.
 
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