Ferguson tractor Z134 valve job

[FergusonTO35]

Ok, got my oil pan back on and used Right Stuff for the gasket. The aerosol can of it I purchased turned out to be fossilized. Took it back and got the caulk tube version which worked well. So, just waiting on the head to come back now.

 

[Al Smith]

I'm so old school I always make a gasket myself . The largest has been for a D4 Cat vintage 1943 .Cast iron and weights near 200 pounds .It took some creative rigging to get that one in place .I used the same stuff Cat did, heavy paper and number 1 Permatex . 30 plus years and it doesn't leak----yet .

 

[Larry B]

I used the same stuff Cat did, heavy paper and number 1 Permatex . 30 plus years and it doesn't leak----yet .

You can probably take the bolts out and it still won't leak. That permatex no.1 don't come apart easy.

 

[Al Smith]

The way those old Cats are made is with a kind of double oil sump .The oil pump transfers to the rear so going down hill you don't run out of oil .5 gallons of lube oil . As a result to pull that pan you either remove the main spring or jack the front of the machine about 4 feet in the air . It's nothing but a tough job to do and not a half hour task . In it's day every gasket was glommed with # 1 Permatex .except the valve cover gasket which was cork,1/4" thick . Big wide bearings didn't take much oil pressure .Those were made to last almost forever .

 

[FergusonTO35]

Ok, machine shop called and my head is ready to pick up. The charge was only $168.00 so I'm going to guess they refaced the valve seats and lapped them in. If that is the case, should I go ahead and put new valve springs in just to be on the safe side? I know weak valve springs can make weird stuff happen. Or is that even much of a worry in a low rpm/low compression dinosaur like this?

 

[Larry B]

If you can find a spec for the springs you can use the old bathroom scale trick where you cut a block of wood slightly shorter shorter than the spec measurement then put both on a bathroom scale and press on the spring till you reach the spec pressure and you should have a slight gap between the wood block and whatever you are pushing with. Redneck backyard mechanics from popular hotrodding circa 1974. But i would just see if they all feel the same and if they do put them in. I doubt if you are going to rev it enough to float the valves.

 

[Al Smith]

I'd have to look up the comp on a z-134 but I know on the Z-120 with the big bore kit it took them from 6.5 to one to 8.5 to 1 . Personally I wouldn't get real concerned about the valve springs .However it gives you any satisfaction go ahead with it . It's been so long since I worked on a Fergy engine I can't remember if they had valve rotators or not . If memory serves the gov was set some where under 2,000 RPMs but you can crank down on the spring and make them sound like an Offenhauser .I don't recommend it .

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks! As I recall, the intake valves have oil seals but the exhaust do not. Likewise, the exhaust valves have rotators but the intake do not. My tractor has the standard bore and compression is something like 7.5:1.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Ok, the head, ignition, and manifold are back on, fluids filled up, and valves adjusted. I haven't put back all the stuff it doesn't need to run because that guarantees I'll have to take it off again to fix something I did. Hopefully I can try to fire it up today or tomorrow, I really miss using this tractor! The 2018 model, while very capable, just isn't the same.

 

[stretch5881]

Works the same for me. Put everything together and put the tools away and I always have to take something back apart. Jinx.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Ok, the tractor started right up and runs. I only ran it for about 10 minutes and didnt put any kind of load on it. The exhaust note still has some sputter to it, don't know how much is considered normal for these old things or if it will go away when I really run it. I am going to get new spark plugs tomorrow, I threw the old ones in just to see if it would start.

 

[Steve]

Ok, the tractor started right up and runs. I only ran it for about 10 minutes and didnt put any kind of load on it. The exhaust note still has some sputter to it, don't know how much is considered normal for these old things or if it will go away when I really run it. I am going to get new spark plugs tomorrow, I threw the old ones in just to see if it would start.

On a governed engine some sputter under a no load condition is normal. When the governor closes the throttle you can get a pop from the exhaust. What matters is does it run well without missing a beat under load. I bet even if you still have a pop with no load, you will notice better torque with your mower after the head was rebuilt.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks bro. I 'spose running under a load is what really matters, right? I think I'm also going to take Larry B's advice and put the hotter Champion D21 plugs in it.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Put the Champion D21's and a 180 degree stat in, and buttoned her up enough for a test drive through the field. Definitely running better now, what spit and sputter remains I can learn to live with. Idles way better now too, previously it would die below 1000 rpm. Should be cutting grass with it next week.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Put the rest of it back together and went for a long ride through the fields. Performance is way better now, the tractor now goes up hills in high range no problem. The governor seems to have a much easier time keeping the rpm up. Going down hills and at idle the exhaust still has some pop and sputter but is quite smooth under load so I guess it's fixed.

A huge thanks to Steve, Larry B, and everybody else who helped and put up with all my dumb questions!

 

[Larry B]

Looking good!. It looks like you have a paper cartridge fuel filter installed. Depending on the filter it may work just fine or it could when the fuel in the tank gets low it can stop flowing fuel. If it seems to run poor when the fuel in the tank is low check the fiel filter.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks bro, will keep that in mind. As I recall it is a Wix filter recommended for gravity feed systems.

 

[Al Smith]

What happens on a high hour old governed engine is often the butterfly shaft plus the bushings develop some wear and suck air to some degree .Wisconsin baler engines are the worse .They used to sell a new shaft with bushings to repair those old carbs .

 

[Steve]

Put the rest of it back together and went for a long ride through the fields. Performance is way better now, the tractor now goes up hills in high range no problem. The governor seems to have a much easier time keeping the rpm up. Going down hills and at idle the exhaust still has some pop and sputter but is quite smooth under load so I guess it's fixed.

A huge thanks to Steve, Larry B, and everybody else who helped and put up with all my dumb questions!

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Glad you got her going with much improvement! I agree with Larry, not a fan of paper filters in a gravity feed system. The sediment bowls work extremely well.

 

[FergusonTO35]

What happens on a high hour old governed engine is often the butterfly shaft plus the bushings develop some wear and suck air to some degree .Wisconsin baler engines are the worse .They used to sell a new shaft with bushings to repair those old carbs .

Small B&S carbs can do that too, fortunately most of them are pretty cheap. The tractor currently has a new aftermarket carb installed. Larry rebuilt the original for me, I may put it on and see if that changes anything.