CLEARCUT meets the 500i

[RI Chevy]

Mtronic saws run very strong. Can't knock one til you try one.

 

[BonScott46]

Mtronic saws run very strong. Can't knock one til you try one.

I own two.

 

[RI Chevy]

Sorry. I misread Autotune for mtronic. Lol. [emoji3526]

 

[CR888]

After what Randy posted in his 500 thread where a 500 needs calibration reset on the dealers computer for many parts changes. If you take the cylinder off..it needs the computer, if replace head gasket...computer, even if you fit a new clutch, it needs the damn computer. MT carb saws seemed to adjust to mods, condition changes and part changes by themselves well. I think this problem saw has nothing 'wrong' with it but it DOES need to be hooked up to a Stihl dealers computer for a calibration reset. Until these saws become mainstream in the US & dealers have the hardware/software programs, I wouldn't do ANYTHING to them, no mods!

 

[Cobby08]

I wonder if there any pre-programmed settings that make it run fat for X amount of time after original startup to allow for break in.

Could be fuel I guess, forgive me if I didn’t pay attention and that was already said.

Most of the saws I build start out much fatter on the H needle when they are first assembled. When the rings stop allowing blow by, the saws need to be really leaned out. Most even leak unburned oil out of the muffler for X amount of tanks, the it stops.

I wonder if it’s just gonna clean up as time goes on. Judging form the first vs. latest pics inside the muffler, it already has. It could just be blow by that’s coking in the muffler. Piston certainly looks fine.

I'm guessing this to a T...

 

[HYPERSAWS]

After what Randy posted in his 500 thread where a 500 needs calibration reset on the dealers computer for many parts changes. If you take the cylinder off..it needs the computer, if replace head gasket...computer, even if you fit a new clutch, it needs the damn computer. MT carb saws seemed to adjust to mods, condition changes and part changes by themselves well. I think this problem saw has nothing 'wrong' with it but it DOES need to be hooked up to a Stihl dealers computer for a calibration reset. Until these saws become mainstream in the US & dealers have the hardware/software programs, I wouldn't do ANYTHING to them, no mods!

Why would stihl design a saw that can't tune itself from the valley floor to a ridge top? I think it should be able to adjust itself .(air to fuel ratio).

 

[Cobby08]

Personally the "calibration" I feel is more of a liability blanket more than anything else. The computer stuff I do understand why that should be re-calibrated but say for instance on a MT saw if you have a rod bearing failure MT would try to lean the saw out to bring up RPM's to desired and this would cut it back more and more to a limit perhaps cooking the saw. Say you rebuild it and put all new guts in it then recal of the software like this would prevent you from frying new parts.

 

[~WBF]

After what Randy posted in his 500 thread where a 500 needs calibration reset on the dealers computer for many parts changes. If you take the cylinder off..it needs the computer, if replace head gasket...computer, even if you fit a new clutch, it needs the damn computer. MT carb saws seemed to adjust to mods, condition changes and part changes by themselves well. I think this problem saw has nothing 'wrong' with it but it DOES need to be hooked up to a Stihl dealers computer for a calibration reset. Until these saws become mainstream in the US & dealers have the hardware/software programs, I wouldn't do ANYTHING to them, no mods!

Yeah I flipside the last page yesterday and happened to caught his post.
Interesting?


Although it doesn't include swapping a stock muffler out (which would make sense) but a MM would seem enough to send it into a loop. It even includes a new air filter.

If I wanted that kind of sensitivity then I would have a GF
Here it is pasted over.

Edit
Ooops...That didn't work either?

Try,try again.

 

[~WBF]

Here is Randy's post pasted below from his 500I build thread p15? I believe

"The manual says......

After a repair to the chain saw, the control unit may not be adapted to the mechanical and mechatronic components initially. The chain saw may not have optimum power or faults may appear in the running behavior.
Calibration adapts the control unit optimally to the mechanical and mechatronic components of the chain saw.
Calibrating the chain saw is recommended whenever any of the listed components is replaced or is reinstalled :

–Crankcase
–Crankcase gasket
–Oil seals
–Crankshaft
–Piston
–Cylinder gasket
–Cylinder
–Injection module
–Injector housing
–Injection valve
–Sensor
–Generator
–Flywheel
–Clutch
–Control unit – only if the control unit is replaced.
–Injection pump
–Throttle shutter housing
–Air filter – only if the air filter is replaced.

Mastermind Worksaws Website"

 

[CLEARCUT]

If the tree's aren't big enough, why not make some noodles. That ought a work it hard.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I would, but the landowner probably wouldn’t be to happy, or the bullbuck, lol.

 

[CLEARCUT]

This thread pretty much sums up why I am not a fan of the M-tronic system (I don't have any experience with Autotune).

For the most part, I have had great success with the mtronic and autotune saws. I generally prefer them. In this case, I’m wishing I could adjust the saw. The mtronic saws are quite easy to deal with actually. The injection saws will probably be too once things get established.
A big thing though, is the overall saw design. A 461 and 462 are designed much differently. I like the mtronic, but I prefer the 461 platform for our general cutting conditions and style out here.

 

[Mkinslow]

I would, but the landowner probably wouldn’t be to happy, or the bullbuck, lol.

I gotcha and I thought of that even before I posted, but I was thinking of maybe finding something that wouldn't have any value. Idk,just a thought bud.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[Lightning Performance]

Everyone keeps going back to the 461....but it's gone from production here.

I ran a few recently. They seem ok. The AV is a bit tougher than the 462 or maybe the 500. I have no time on the 500. Just a few cookie cuts. The 461 was run with a 36" full comp. Someone handed it to me. Stock it's lacking in hardwood stumps. It was ok to buck 25" oak with round file RS chain.

 

[RI Chevy]

For 36" bar, gotta go to 660/661...

461s are good to 28" Bahs.

 

[HYPERSAWS]

I don't run nothing shorter than 32 most of the time

 

[CR888]

Randy just did 3 500's, porting & other various mods. It will be interesting how they start up & run. The MT carb saws looked after themselves pretty well, if not YOU could reset/recalibrate them. I hope the 500 is similar but some of the material in the manual perhaps states they are not & require dealer software. I know none of this stuff fa sure...just reading between the lines. Maybe what's written in the 500 manual is 'over precautionary' or maybe its not.

 

[Cobby08]

For 36" bar, gotta go to 660/661...

461s are good to 28" Bahs.

I concur my Hawdwood brotheren.

 

[Shanesaw80]

For 36" bar, gotta go to 660/661...

461s are good to 28" Bahs.

461 will run a 32” just fine, but I agree about the 36”. Usually when I get to that point I’m switching to the 661.

 

[Shanesaw80]

Everyone keeps going back to the 461....but it's gone from production here.

Fortunately we can still get the 461 here, still listed on Stihl Canada site as well. Going to be a sad day when they’re gone, a pretty big staple in the falling industry out this way.

 

[huskyboy]

For 36" bar, gotta go to 660/661...

461s are good to 28" Bahs.

Where those guys are from they can run 32’s on 70cc class in the softwood they cut with square chains and 7 pin easily. Where we are from, 80-90cc minimum in hickory and oak with 32/36” bar.