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case half interchangability... ????

srcarr52

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If you get a chance to look at a NewWay brand valve seat cutter head, you can see that the (3) inserts have a varied spacing.

I LOVE my Neway Seat Cutters. Been using them for years. The factory ground some custom guide pins for me so they wouldn't be so tight or sloppy in the guides I was using. Price was not bad either. Nice people.

I hate them. I’d rather use seat stones.
 

srcarr52

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I have a set of stones with an old Black and Decker Valve Grinder. It works ok but the carbide on the Neway doesn't need dressing and no sparks!

Have you ever put a concentricity gauge on your neway cut seat? Seat stones are becoming a lost art but they still have their place. I'd rather be using a Sunnen VGS machine but my budget dictates I use the old Kwikway stones.
 

Lightning Performance

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Have you ever put a concentricity gauge on your neway cut seat? Seat stones are becoming a lost art but they still have their place. I'd rather be using a Sunnen VGS machine but my budget dictates I use the old Kwikway stones.
That's a huge thing most people don't fully understand the value of.
 

legdelimber

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The NewWay arbors/pilots should have a slight taper, at least the ones I used did. Assuming the valve guide is not worn nor the the pilots or the center hole of the cutter head, should run true. Sharp carbides with no chipping other damage? At that point I would think it's mostly down to careful manipulation of the "T" handle.
Sort of cup one hand against the block and loosely hold the T-handle shank while you rotate the cutter.

Now if the valve seat is badly eroded, we need to be careful and keep the pressure as such that you don't force the pilot to flex/bend and thus let the cutter follow the damage. Enough pressure to cut but avoid it leading off into the damage zone.
Pushing too hard and causing the cutter head to deflect into the damage was a common thing I saw people do.

As far as how well the pilot fits the valve guide, well then we need to determine if the guide needs replacing or reamed and a bushing installed, to get the cutter pilot to stay in one place and give a good cut.

Now another thing I noticed was the T-handle also seems to put some peoples hand and wrist into a bad angle and cause uneven rotation.
Biggest trouble there, is getting the twist on that T-handle without having your hand/arm roll or twist out of line with the cutter. Real easy to tilt too.
Took me a bit of practice to get that strait, but after that I liked the NewWay.

A light touch on the last few spins, assuming good carbides, and you'd normally clean up any eccentricities.
A dash of bluing and a single turn of the new valve generally showed a nice even contact line.
I always liked a quick kiss with the fine Clover compound and a good cleanup, then a preliminary check for stem clearance and finish the install.

P.S. I hope some of what I said will be helpful to anyone trying the NewWay cutter.

After a carpel tunnel repair and shoulder work and neck bones screwed to a strap, I'm a bit concerned whether still I have the dexterity to do all of this.
Heck, I used to be crazy enough to run an 8-32 tap in a 1/4" Milwaukee drill motor, tapping in HRS about 3/4" thick wall (and get away with it.). but That was mostly testament to how smooth that drill & trigger was!
 
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KennyWinCT

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Have you ever put a concentricity gauge on your neway cut seat?

That's why I ordered my own custom set of guide pins (pilot shafts) that have .0005" clearance to the cutter bore on top and to the guide bore on the bottom. I use an adjustable reamer and fit the valve stems to the guides, (replacing if beyond wear limits) then have an assortment of custom pilot shafts in .001 increments to fit into the guides. No sloppy non-concentric bores from my setup. Great Post Ledgelimber NOTE: Keep in mind I was rebuilding 15-20 Kohler K-Series engines a year when I started using the Neway system so having custom pilots made was something I could expense through all the work performed.
 
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srcarr52

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Have you ever put a concentricity gauge on your neway cut seat?

That's why I ordered my own custom set of guide pins (pilot shafts) that have .0005" clearance to the cutter bore on top and to the guide bore on the bottom. I use an adjustable reamer and fit the valve stems to the guides, (replacing if beyond wear limits) then have an assortment of custom pilot shafts in .001 increments to fit into the guides. No sloppy non-concentric bores from my setup. Great Post Ledgelimber NOTE: Keep in mind I was rebuilding 15-20 Kohler K-Series engines a year when I started using the Neway system so having custom pilots made was something I could expense through all the work performed.

I only use solid tapered pilots with the seat stones, I've even made my own pilot in a pinch.
 

KennyWinCT

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I only use solid tapered pilots with the seat stones, I've even made my own pilot in a pinch.
The Neway 140 Tapered Pilots are the way to go when using a Neway Cutter. One size fits many guide bores, saves you $$ over buying multiple pilots. Good point. Thanks!
 

legdelimber

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Have you ever put a concentricity gauge on your neway cut seat?
No, I never got that deep with checking the results while I was still active in repairs. Give ya an idea of how long it's been...Veeerry few overhead valve units coming through at that time.
We did the procedure that I babbled about and had little trouble with leaks.
Sometimes we might try setting an engine in a position that you could fill the exhaust port with a solvent and look for any signs of leakage, but that was more of a curiosity event.
 

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Only when the end mill touched the flag pivot pin when I overtraveled. Took only .001 at a time. Completely quiet while cutting otherwise.

Does you cases have same bore dia where you have shaft?
 

Deets066

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Just found it in your wicked 090 thread. Simple and impressive at the same time. I just zeroed off the original base on clutch half and assumed it was square with crank bores.
Are you only bolted to half of the case?
 
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