600p most worthwhile porting improvements?

[Stevetheboatguy]

Ok so I have a couple of these 600p's. One bone stock and one with the base gasket deleted, the exhaust port widened and the muffler deflector thing removed. Obviously the second one is much stronger. My question is.......... Are there any other easily achieved gains hidden in the 600p jug? I have a third 600 coming and I plan on tearing into it and my bone stock one. Should I just try to match the one I already have with the exh widened and be happy? Or is there anything else I should/could do without a lathe?

If you don't want to disclose your tips that's understandable. Or if you would rather disclose them in a pm that's fine too.

Pics of a dead 600p cylinder. Haven't tried to clean it up yet. But should make for a fair reference.




Steven

 

[Nutball]

What size bar do you want to run?

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Probably 20's have other saws for 24+. They might see a 24 occasionally but definitely not on a regular basis.


Steven

Edit: went back and found this. A long read but good info. Muddys the water further for my purpose. http://opeforum.com/threads/echo-cs-590-600-620-porting-mod-build-thread.1638/

 

[Nutball]

Raise the exhaust and lower the intake a little, just be careful not to go too high where the outer part of the cylinder transitions to the exhaust port.

 

[Dub11]

@Termitebuffet

@Red97

 

[Hinerman]

@awol

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Also have this jug off another 600. Transfers look quite different.



Steven

 

[Nutball]

That's a newer one, just like the 620p transfers.

 

[drf256]

Also have this jug off another 600. Transfers look quite different.

View attachment 216893 View attachment 216894 View attachment 216895 View attachment 216896

Steven

Looks like the 590 jug. I’d take the smaller uppers anyday.

Steve, you won’t know anything unless you hook a degree wheel up. Otherwise you are just guessing. Don’t move any port heights.

@Red97 has played a lot. I’m sure he can offer some help.

If you want some machine work done on that jug, you know how to reach me. I’d need a long block (crank/case/piston/crank/jug assembly). Just asking for X off the base/band is a slippery slope.

 

[Red97]

Only other easy thing would be advance the timing. .015" off the key is a good starting point.

Without using a degree wheel it will be difficult to make any more changes above what you have done.

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Looks like the 590 jug. I’d take the smaller uppers anyday.

Steve, you won’t know anything unless you hook a degree wheel up. Otherwise you are just guessing. Don’t move any port heights.

@Red97 has played a lot. I’m sure he can offer some help.

If you want some machine work done on that jug, you know how to reach me. I’d need a long block (crank/case/piston/crank/jug assembly). Just asking for X off the base/band is a slippery slope.

Only other easy thing would be advance the timing. .015" off the key is a good starting point.

Without using a degree wheel it will be difficult to make any more changes above what you have done.

Much appreciated input guys. I don't need this to be a total hot rod saw. So I'll probably just play it safe and widen the exhaust port. (Seems ridiculously small) Leave the hights alone. Or if I possibly come up with a extra jug. Maybe try raising the exh a smidge like @Nutball suggested. But yeah I really don't want to be shooting in the dark. Have to get the box o seadoo tools out and find my degree wheel.

Steven

 

[Dub11]

Oh and don't forget the band aids

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Oh and don't forget the band aids

Check

 

[Red97]

Much appreciated input guys. I don't need this to be a total hot rod saw. So I'll probably just play it safe and widen the exhaust port. (Seems ridiculously small) Leave the hights alone. Or if I possibly come up with a extra jug. Maybe try raising the exh a smidge like @Nutball suggested. But yeah I really don't want to be shooting in the dark. Have to get the box o seadoo tools out and find my degree wheel.

Steven

Should be fine going up the thickness of the ring easy enough.

 

[Terry Syd]

Or nip a bit off the front edge of the piston to see if the extra blow down helps. It is easier to replace a piston than a jug.

 

[NPKenny]

It is easier to replace a piston than a jug.

Usually yes! This series has a somewhat unique, moderately expensive piston. So much so that I made repairs on scored pistons to get low cost 590’s going. Golf has a piston, I believe. Cylinders / parts saws are everywhere because of Home Depot lean tuned saws.

That is my experience in the US, anyway.

 

[Terry Syd]

Use an old piston or get a cheap Golf piston. You can butcher it up as much as you want. More blow down, more intake, more transfer timing, whatever. Then use the OEM piston with any mods you decide to do to the jug.

 

[Nutball]

Golf pistons are so thick, I've considered trying to port one to make a strato 590 for the fun of it.

 

[huskyboy]

Golf pistons are so thick, I've considered trying to port one to make a strato 590 for the fun of it.

How is it possible to make a non strato saw a strato saw with the piston?

 

[Nutball]

Use your imagination. I'd drill a couple holes through the cylinder, and grind strato ports into the piston & cylinder. Pipe the intake holes back to the air filter somehow. It might not be possible, but the idea came to me when I saw how thick the piston is.