545 Mark 1 necessary or recomended upgrades

[redneckhillbilly]

what are the recommended or necessary upgrades that the Mark 1 version of these saws need-require.

last summer I purchased a new never fueled 2016 model from a dealer that forgot they had it in the back and discovered it, I got a screaming deal on it with full warranty as well.

the saw sometimes stumbles a little bit when I hit the throttle from an idle even when fully warmed up.

I've read the changed the air filter but cannot find exactly what needs to be changed to make it the better setup, can a filter simply be swapped or is more parts necessary.

idealy I would like to get the saw with the good filter on it and get rid of the stumble it has.

 

[SimonHS]

what are the recommended or necessary upgrades that the Mark 1 version of these saws need-require.

last summer I purchased a new never fueled 2016 model from a dealer that forgot they had it in the back and discovered it, I got a screaming deal on it with full warranty as well.

the saw sometimes stumbles a little bit when I hit the throttle from an idle even when fully warmed up.

I've read the changed the air filter but cannot find exactly what needs to be changed to make it the better setup, can a filter simply be swapped or is more parts necessary.

idealy I would like to get the saw with the good filter on it and get rid of the stumble it has.

It's worth trying this first:

https://opeforum.com/threads/a-simple-field-tune-for-husqvarna-autotunes.24062/

The cut under load has to be continuous until you are sure that the reset has taken place. If you come off the throttle too soon it won't work.

With thanks to @Spike60 and @afleetcommand

 

[redneckhillbilly]

I have done that before, and I have read about adjusting some screw underneath the carb, but that seems to me like it could become a can of worms I really dont want to open up.

I am kind of thinking about rounding up whatever parts to upgrade the filter if everything will interchange and sending the saw to someone to have it ported if they think they can port it and get rid of the stumble.

the stumble is there and I have learned to work with it, but it is annoying, the dealer I bought it from is 125 miles away and I really dont want to make 2 trips just for this saw.

*edited to include.
It's very hard to find info on what exactly was changed from Mark1 to the newer Mark2 saws.
I have searched and searched and cannot find specific details on what was changed.

 

[Motorka]

Leave that carb adjusting screw. Look for air leaks and firmware updates.

 

[redneckhillbilly]

the closest dealer to me wants $40 to plug it in to check firmware, I really don't want to pay that much, I think husqvarna should cover updates on their tab not the purchaser, I could drive it 125 miles to have it done, maybe for free, but they might charge also, I got the saw for a very good price and I am willing to pay for parts to upgrade it or pay to have it ported, I just dont want to pay to plug it in I would assume let it blow up and than the place I bought it from can deal with it.

Im gonna check for air leaks and see if I can find any

 

[Ford3000]

the closest dealer to me wants $40 to plug it in to check firmware, I really don't want to pay that much, I think husqvarna should cover updates on their tab not the purchaser, I could drive it 125 miles to have it done, maybe for free, but they might charge also, I got the saw for a very good price and I am willing to pay for parts to upgrade it or pay to have it ported, I just dont want to pay to plug it in I would assume let it blow up and than the place I bought it from can deal with it.

Im gonna check for air leaks and see if I can find any

Leave the saw back where you bought it while its still in warranty,
tell them it needs fixing, they have to do it under warranty.
A good dealer would have updated the software before it left the store,
this alone tells me your going to have trouble.

Take a video of the issue before you send the saw back, as proof
of issue.

 

[redneckhillbilly]

I'm gonna give them a call in the morning, I would like to get the air filter updated to the newer style either way.

I really enjoy the saw even if it doesnt run perfect it's a light saw and it packs a decent bit of power

 

[huskihl]

The idle mix screw is behind a brass cap on the air filter end of the carb. It’s easy to pop it out, give it 1/8 turn out and pop the cap back in

 

[redneckhillbilly]

Thanks for the advice I will give that a try,
I was hoping one of the saw masters here would chime in.

I feel kinda bad bothering the people I bought it from with warranty stuff, they sold me the saw for a screaming deal of $300 out the door with a 6 pack of oil and 3 cans of fuel so I could get the 5 year warranty, they really hooked me up even if the saw has some runability issues.

but after reading about the filtration of these saws I would like to get that upgraded, I gotta say the air filter is pretty cheesy.

 

[huskihl]

Thanks for the advice I will give that a try,
I was hoping one of the saw masters here would chime in.

I feel kinda bad bothering the people I bought it from with warranty stuff, they sold me the saw for a screaming deal of $300 out the door with a 6 pack of oil and 3 cans of fuel so I could get the 5 year warranty, they really hooked me up even if the saw has some runability issues.

but after reading about the filtration of these saws I would like to get that upgraded, I gotta say the air filter is pretty cheesy.

I doubt the dealer knows that screw is there

 

[MG2186]

Thanks for the advice I will give that a try,
I was hoping one of the saw masters here would chime in.

I feel kinda bad bothering the people I bought it from with warranty stuff, they sold me the saw for a screaming deal of $300 out the door with a 6 pack of oil and 3 cans of fuel so I could get the 5 year warranty, they really hooked me up even if the saw has some runability issues.

but after reading about the filtration of these saws I would like to get that upgraded, I gotta say the air filter is pretty cheesy.

Just run a pre filter on it, that’s what I do on all of mine, keeps the intake spotless like it’s supposed to be.

 

[redneckhillbilly]

what brand of pre filter do you recommend, I have never even looked at them for chainsaws, would it be wise for me to get one for my other saw as well?

 

[MG2186]

This is what I use, I put uni foam oil on them and they work great

 

[MG2186]

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/pc-racing-filter-skins-p

 

[RCBS]

Do a muff mod to get more heat out. Buy a spike for a 562 and file the hole slightly with your chain file to fit. Try to find the orange mesh filters. Plug the decomp. If you want to go all out, get the AT12 Carb.

 

[redneckhillbilly]

im hoping this weekend to find the hidden screw and adjust it like huskihl recommended, when you say mod the muffler is taking out the screen good enough? or remove it and drill it?

 

[redneckhillbilly]

went and took apart the air filter housing and located the brass plug, removed it and adjusted the screw out 1/8 of a turn, put it back together and it started right up and ran for about 5 seconds and died out and will not restart for the life of me, it is flooding itself out like no other, so I adjusted it back to where it was and it still floods itself out.

called all the local husky shops about performing a reset, 1st place wants $100, the second place wants $75, and third place said doing a reset was a waste of time.

not sure what to do now, is there a way to reset it without using a dealer, can you unplug anything ground it out to reset, or is there a button somewhere you can press?

 

[huskihl]

Never seen one flood out. Maybe something stuck holding the needle open or the diaphragm is hard and pressing it down

 

[redneckhillbilly]

is the diaphragm under the cover on the top of the carb with 4 screws holding it? I'm going to try to fix it again today

 

[huskihl]

is the diaphragm under the cover on the top of the carb with 4 screws holding it? I'm going to try to fix it again today

Yeah it’s under one of them