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440 base gasket delete question

Dustin4185

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I am wanting to try a base gasket delete on a 440 along with timing advance and muffler mod. Is it possible to do a gasket delete without pulling the jug completely? I don't have ring compressors to put it back together. I was going to order some, so I may wait.
 

Adirondackstihl

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Impossible.....

Edit: nothing is impossible.
But it's not the right way to do it.
You'll need to clean both mating surfaces and use some sort of sealant. I don't see an easy way to do it without pulling the jug.

Ring compressors aren't necessary, but they're handy.
Before I had a set, I used zip ties or simply my finger nails.
 

Dustin4185

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Didn't think of zip ties. I thought it may be far fetched. I need to make an order anyways. I have some Yamabond.

It is not my "personal" saw! It is one that I use if you get my drift.
 

cease232

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I don't think it's impossible. Pain in the ass yes. Just pull it off. I don't own ring compressors and do tons of them with just my fat fingers.


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Canadian farm boy

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Have you checked your squish yet to determine if you can fully delete the base gasket?

If you don't have .038"-.040" squish with the base gasket you won't be able to totally delete it.

Most base gaskets measure .018"-.020". You don't want your final squish any tighter then .020"

Heres my thinking
Sq with gasket = .040
- Gasket = .020
So your final squish without a gasket would be .020

I hope this makes sense. If your squish with a gasket is tighter then .038-.040 you may be able to make a new base gasket out of thinner material to achieve you final squish of .020
 

Dustin4185

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Well, I know what I may be doing tomorrow! Plenty of ways to get it back together, I just wasn't using my noggin. It was a saw at another WMA that they were going to surplus. Absolutely nothing wrong with except old gas. I figured it won't cost anything for me to try other than the sealant.
 

Dustin4185

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Have you checked your squish yet to determine if you can fully delete the base gasket?

If you don't have .038"-.040" squish with the base gasket you won't be able to totally delete it.

Most base gaskets measure .018"-.020". You don't want your final squish any tighter then .020"

Heres my thinking
Sq with gasket = .040
- Gasket = .020
So your final squish without a gasket would be .020

I hope this makes sense. If your squish with a gasket is tighter then .038-.040 you may be able to make a new base gasket out of thinner material to achieve you final squish of .020
I am going to check it before. Is it possible to do that through the exhaust port? Or best to pull the jug and check it?
 

Adirondackstihl

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I am going to check it before. Is it possible to do that through the exhaust port? Or best to pull the jug and check it?
Easiest way is through the plug hole.
Bend solder into "L".
Push end of solder off to the left....check.
Push solder off to the right......check.

Basically wanna check squish over the ends of the wrist pin.
At least that's how I do it
 

cease232

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Have you checked your squish yet to determine if you can fully delete the base gasket?

If you don't have .038"-.040" squish with the base gasket you won't be able to totally delete it.

Most base gaskets measure .018"-.020". You don't want your final squish any tighter then .020"

Heres my thinking
Sq with gasket = .040
- Gasket = .020
So your final squish without a gasket would be .020

I hope this makes sense. If your squish with a gasket is tighter then .038-.040 you may be able to make a new base gasket out of thinner material to achieve you final squish of .020

Good call


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I am going to check it before. Is it possible to do that through the exhaust port? Or best to pull the jug and check it?
Best way is to go through the spark plug hole. You want to use something like thin like soft solder.
I'd check your squish in at least 2 spots at the same time.
Just remove the spark plug, turn the engine over till the piston is just below TDC. Take a couple pieces of solder about 3" long and bend the at 90*. Slip them both in through the spark plug hole. One piece of solder should face the flywheel and the other piece towards the clutch. Make sure the end of the solder is touching the cylinder wall. Now turn the engine past tdc and back again several times until you barely feel the solder when the piston passes tdc. Remove the solder and measure its crushed thickness.
With a base gasket you want .040
Without a base gasket you want .020
 

Adirondackstihl

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Best way is to go through the spark plug hole. You want to use something like thin like soft solder.
I'd check your squish in at least 2 spots at the same time.
Just remove the spark plug, turn the engine over till the piston is just below TDC. Take a couple pieces of solder about 3" long and bend the at 90*. Slip them both in through the spark plug hole. One piece of solder should face the flywheel and the other piece towards the clutch. Make sure the end of the solder is touching the cylinder wall. Now turn the engine past tdc and back again several times until you barely feel the solder when the piston passes tdc. Remove the solder and measure its crushed thickness.
With a base gasket you want .040
Without a base gasket you want .020
Exactly what I wanted to type, but I'm lazy
 
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