357 questions

[BlacknTan]

Excuse me for a (probably) stupid question..

I'm in the midst of my first chainsaw build from the ground up. Started with a crankcase, fuel tank, intake track and P&C. Learned a helluva lot already by studying parts schematics, the workshop manual, the 357/359 rebuild thread here, which I've gone through numerous times, and @Benwa videos putting together the @davidwyby 2159... all extremely helpful, and I've got nearly all my questions nailed down.
But, these two have me stumped. In the photo on the fuel tank, there is what appears to be about a 1/8 steel dowel pin protruding to the side. I can't find anything about it.. what it's for or why it's there. Also, right down the longitudinal center of the tank, at the parting lines, is a plastic protrusion standing up that looks like an area to tie something down with a zip tie.. but again, I can't find what?
Gotten alot of parts in, and things are beginning to piece together. Have to get the muffler tigged up, and waiting on one carb part for the Walbro 199, which for the time being, I'm staying with.

Will be adding a few photos of progress, but nothing like the ultimate 357/359 thread...

If I could get and idea on those two areas, it would be a great help!

 

[cuinrearview]

That pin is a movement limiter. Just throw it together as is. As far as the little "hook" on the tank, I've always wondered as well. Never seen it used on one I've taken apart or assembled. Maybe it's for wiring on a "G" model.

 

[Benwa]

Excuse me for a (probably) stupid question..

I'm in the midst of my first chainsaw build from the ground up. Started with a crankcase, fuel tank, intake track and P&C. Learned a helluva lot already by studying parts schematics, the workshop manual, the 357/359 rebuild thread here, which I've gone through numerous times, and @Benwa videos putting together the @davidwyby 2159... all extremely helpful, and I've got nearly all my questions nailed down.
But, these two have me stumped. In the photo on the fuel tank, there is what appears to be about a 1/8 steel dowel pin protruding to the side. I can't find anything about it.. what it's for or why it's there. Also, right down the longitudinal center of the tank, at the parting lines, is a plastic protrusion standing up that looks like an area to tie something down with a zip tie.. but again, I can't find what?
Gotten alot of parts in, and things are beginning to piece together. Have to get the muffler tigged up, and waiting on one carb part for the Walbro 199, which for the time being, I'm staying with.

Will be adding a few photos of progress, but nothing like the ultimate 357/359 thread...

If I could get and idea on those two areas, it would be a great help!

First off, there are no stupid questions if you DON'T already know the answer haha. That pin is just an alignment/locating pin. If you look on the saw case itself you'll notice a small recess/void where that pin will slide/fit into. It is NOT a tight fit. It seems like there should be a buffer or something on it when you look at it. There are two other spots that DO have a limiter/ buffer (part number 503869201) they are held on with bolts through the case that are threaded near the head but then just a smooth pin on the end to hold the buffer. It SEEMS like there should be one on the pin you show in the picture, but I've never seen one on any of the 359 / 2159 saws that I've done. Could you post a picture of the plastic protrusion you're taking about? Maybe it's in the picture, I'm just missing it.

 

[BlacknTan]

That pin is a movement limiter. Just throw it together as is. As far as the little "hook" on the tank, I've always wondered as well. Never seen it used on one I've taken apart or assembled. Maybe it's for wiring on a "G" model.

AHA. Wiring.. that's what it looks like, something to tie down wiring.. Thanks!

 

[BlacknTan]

Thanks Ben,

Your videos helped me immensely!
I'll get a better pic of that, but I think cuinrearview is right. I've already got the other two snubbers installed.

 

[BlacknTan]

Hope this pic shows it a bit better, gents. just a bit high of the parting line, center of pic. If I was a bit more computer literate, I'd circle it or add an arrow..

 

[jacob j.]

If I was a bit more computer literate, I'd circle it or add an arrow..

I can help with that -

 

[MERR6267]

As for the little "hook" feature; I can't speak with authority in this specific case, I do know that there are often features included on components that are only used for a few seconds in the assembly/manufacturing process. They might use that feature to hold the fuel line from one station to the next, or maybe like you said wiring for the heated model, or other features.

I'm in the oem car parts business, and there are occasional features on many parts that are only there for internal factory use. Sometimes we put them there for fixturing, sometimes for locating other parts between operations, sometimes for ID of one version vs. another of a group of parts that use same tooling.

 

[BlacknTan]

Yes! We used to call them tooling holes, or fixturing holes. Purely to aid in manufacture.

OK, here's my last dumb question of the day.. I have an old Clymer chainsaw repair book, It predates the 357, but does have a section on the 275 (which I do have a nice example of). On replacing the piston, it states that the circlips for the wrist pin should be installed with the open area up, or toward the crown of the piston. There is nothing on this in the 357 workshop manual, and I cannot find any mention of this anywhere else.
I imagine the forces on the circlip must be pretty extreme, changing direction, and accelerating and decelerating at 13 to 14,000 rpm.
Anyone have any thoughts on this, or is it splitting hairs?

 

[jacob j.]

I was always told to either install them with the open area facing 12:00 or 6:00 and I've seen them from the factory (Both Stihl and Husqvarna) either way.

I prefer 12:00 myself (toward the piston crown).

 

[davidwyby]

Speaking of fuel tanks...I noticed last night it seems I might have a leak in mine on the bottom front at the part line. I need to investigate and make sure it’s not just coming from a vent or line, but is that a “thing” with these saws?

 

[BlacknTan]

I was always told to either install them with the open area facing 12:00 or 6:00 and I've seen them from the factory (Both Stihl and Husqvarna) either way.

I prefer 12:00 myself (toward the piston crown).

Thank you Sir... 12 o'clock it is.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Excuse me for a (probably) stupid question..

I'm in the midst of my first chainsaw build from the ground up. Started with a crankcase, fuel tank, intake track and P&C. Learned a helluva lot already by studying parts schematics, the workshop manual, the 357/359 rebuild thread here, which I've gone through numerous times, and @Benwa videos putting together the @davidwyby 2159... all extremely helpful, and I've got nearly all my questions nailed down.
But, these two have me stumped. In the photo on the fuel tank, there is what appears to be about a 1/8 steel dowel pin protruding to the side. I can't find anything about it.. what it's for or why it's there. Also, right down the longitudinal center of the tank, at the parting lines, is a plastic protrusion standing up that looks like an area to tie something down with a zip tie.. but again, I can't find what?
Gotten alot of parts in, and things are beginning to piece together. Have to get the muffler tigged up, and waiting on one carb part for the Walbro 199, which for the time being, I'm staying with.

Will be adding a few photos of progress, but nothing like the ultimate 357/359 thread...

If I could get and idea on those two areas, it would be a great help!

Like Tim @cuinrearview says the pin is a travel limiter. Husky sometimes use a screwbolt with a smooth end on it for same purpose.
I cut some suitable rubber Auto fuel line and slip it on to soft limit the travel some more. Dunno why, just always have.

 

[huskihl]

Believe the hook is for heated handle wiring. It holds the wire(s) in an area where they won’t get pinched

 

[BlacknTan]

As I said at the beginning of this thread, I'm back with more issues and questions for those that know much more than I. This time, carburetion...
I discovered this issue early on, virtually as soon as I opened up the Walbro 199. First, the wrong kit had been installed, as per @tree monkey . But, there is more. As can be seen in the first photo, the plastic plate for venting had been improperly placed on the locating pins upon re-assembly. If you look carefully at the photo, you can see two indentations at about the 8 o'clock position on both locating holes.

This misalignment caused the diaphragm to pinch, fold, and not be sealed under the plate, leaving a slight hole. Seen along the lower edge of the diaphragm in this photo.

While I don't believe, but I'm not sure, this could have caused the saw to fail, I'll wait and see what you all think. My guess is that it would just have not pumped fuel.

The carb will now get the correct kit, and the @tree monkey fix for the carb via the hole drilled in the cover.

Interested in everyone's thoughts..

I know @Benwa has experience here also.. amongst others.

 

[huskihl]

If you’re going to put the correct kit in it, it doesn’t need the hole drilled in the cover. It should work fine if all the holes lineup and with using the stock black plastic piece and cover.
If all you have is the wrong kit, you can drill the hole in the diaphragm and gasket so the atmospheric air reaches the air filter and use it the way it is, or put it back together with one single gasket and diaphragm (and not use the black plastic piece) and drill the plate, like a normal carburetor is set up

 

[BlacknTan]

If you’re going to put the correct kit in it, it doesn’t need the hole drilled in the cover. It should work fine if all the holes lineup and with using the stock black plastic piece and cover.
If all you have is the wrong kit, you can drill the hole in the diaphragm and gasket so the atmospheric air reaches the air filter and use it the way it is, or put it back together with one single gasket and diaphragm (and not use the black plastic piece) and drill the plate, like a normal carburetor is set up

Thanks for the help.
While the plastic plate may not be needed with the cover drilled, I tried to keep things as stock as possible to give myself the least chance for error.

But, could the carburetion problems cause the saw to fail? Pics of the original piston tomorrow..

 

[huskihl]

Thanks for the help.
While the plastic plate may not be needed with the cover drilled, I tried to keep things as stock as possible to give myself the least chance for error.

But, could the carburetion problems cause the saw to fail? Pics of the original piston tomorrow..

Drilling both gaskets and the cover will run fine.

The way it was could definitely make the saw run poorly. Probably lean

 

[BlacknTan]

While there's probably not that much interest in this thread... It's all been done before, and it's a relatively unexciting build, I'm excited because it's my first... you always remember your first, and the 357, to my eye, is a pretty nice saw. The younger brother of my old, semi retired 257.

In any case, here's the intake side of the original piston. As can be seen from the photos, either someone cleaned this saw up extremely well, or it saw very little action before failure..

 

[huskyboy]

While there's probably not that much interest in this thread... It's all been done before, and it's a relatively unexciting build, I'm excited because it's my first... you always remember your first, and the 357, to my eye, is a pretty nice saw. The younger brother of my old, semi retired 257.

In any case, here's the intake side of the original piston. As can be seen from the photos, either someone cleaned this saw up extremely well, or it saw very little action before failure..

Looks like it ingested something.