2511p tear down and rebuild thread

[Sawyer94]

Recently purchased a smashed up 2511p locally for a fair price. Will need a few bigs but other than that pretty straight forward. I plan on pressure/vacuum testing and checking top end and crank, before I actually go ahead and order any parts.

Any advice, recommendations or questions please I would appreciate it. This isn’t something new or exciting just kind of for fun and info thread.

I have used the 1/4” bar and chain set up on these saws and honestly couldn’t tell much of a difference besides it being more smooth and not as much chatter but I have also heard of some chain manufacturers having a new narrow kerf 3/8picco chain that’s supposed to be just as smooth and fast as the 1/4” set up. No experience on this but if anyone does and can chime in?

Anyways, I’ll be posting pictures following the process of the actual tear down and rebuild. Hope to hear from some of the folks on here who have a lot more experience in building saws as I do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sawyer94]

Tank/ handle is completely trashed, besides the fasteners, springs, and kill switch. The throttle linkage, operator presence lever, and trigger are surprisingly all in tact and functional appearing. Won’t be sure until new tank install. Front handle is snapped where it connects to the engine case cover and same with the engine cover itself is cracked. All I could manage last night, more investigation later tonight.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sawyer94]

Tried posting this in just the chainsaw forum but it was having me select a prefix such as Wanted/ for sell/ found. Just an informational post. If possible to transfer to chainsaw section would appreciate otherwise it will stay here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sawyer94]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sawyer94]

I didn’t manage to get a pressure or vacuum test I couldn’t really figure it out, if anyone has recommendations for how they do it on these saws I would appreciate it.

Engine case is cracked and has a mount broken off.

Cylinder shows some wear which is surprising for such a lightly used saw. Piston and combustion chamber has a lot of residue not sure what mix ratio he was running or what not but should clean up and reseal well.

These saws are super fragile I have noticed, I almost broke the handle again trying to get it off the mounts. My 2511t I broke the brake flag on just dropping it a foot from the ground. Appears that you could make a top handle version a rear handle with a few swaps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sierra_rider]

I didn’t manage to get a pressure or vacuum test I couldn’t really figure it out, if anyone has recommendations for how they do it on these saws I would appreciate it.

Engine case is cracked and has a mount broken off.

Cylinder shows some wear which is surprising for such a lightly used saw. Piston and combustion chamber has a lot of residue not sure what mix ratio he was running or what not but should clean up and reseal well.

These saws are super fragile I have noticed, I almost broke the handle again trying to get it off the mounts. My 2511t I broke the brake flag on just dropping it a foot from the ground. Appears that you could make a top handle version a rear handle with a few swaps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've never done a vacuum test specifically on a 2511, but I usually use a on old piece of innertube rubber and clamp that down with the muffler to block the exhaust. For the intake, anything that will fit in it. Hook my mighty-vac up the impulse nipple and pump away.

That piston looks like it may have been ingesting fines, I'm looking at the vertical scratches.

You can double check yours, but I've had a few different 2511ts apart and each one was in the .040-042 range for squish...meaning that they are ideal candidates for a base gasket delete. They also really wake up with a muffler mod. If you can braze or are really good at welding light-gauge sheet metal, splitting and gutting the muffler is the hot ticket.

As far as chains, I'm running narrow-kerf 3/8lp chain on mine. Specifically the Woodland Pro Arbomax lite 16" bar/chain...every 2511 I've worked on, they owners went to that set up as well. It's available from Bailey's...it's called the "UM" mount, it doesn't specifically list the 2511 in the fitment chart, but it works w/o modification.

EDIT: If you go down the base gasket delete route, you might have to slightly trim the skirt of the cylinder. I know that if you drop the cylinder too far, they can bottom out against the cases. You'll know when the crank doesn't spin smoothly when the motor is all back together...I learned that one firsthand.

 

[Sawyer94]

I've never done a vacuum test specifically on a 2511, but I usually use a on old piece of innertube rubber and clamp that down with the muffler to block the exhaust. For the intake, anything that will fit in it. Hook my mighty-vac up the impulse nipple and pump away.

That piston looks like it may have been ingesting fines, I'm looking at the vertical scratches.

You can double check yours, but I've had a few different 2511ts apart and each one was in the .040-042 range for squish...meaning that they are ideal candidates for a base gasket delete. They also really wake up with a muffler mod. If you can braze or are really good at welding light-gauge sheet metal, splitting and gutting the muffler is the hot ticket.

As far as chains, I'm running narrow-kerf 3/8lp chain on mine. Specifically the Woodland Pro Arbomax lite 16" bar/chain...every 2511 I've worked on, they owners went to that set up as well. It's available from Bailey's...it's called the "UM" mount, it doesn't specifically list the 2511 in the fitment chart, but it works w/o modification.

EDIT: If you go down the base gasket delete route, you might have to slightly trim the skirt of the cylinder. I know that if you drop the cylinder too far, they can bottom out against the cases. You'll know when the crank doesn't spin smoothly when the motor is all back together...I learned that one firsthand.

Hey man how’s it going?

Yeah I normally do it that way but by the time I remembered I already had it already torn down and figured I would be a waste to put broken parts back together for a pressure vac test?
Yeah I’ve read that the white filter is better for filter fines?

Unfortunately my micrometer took a dump and I can’t check my solder properly I have a new one on the way and will check squish eventually. I did notice there is a rather large squish on these saws when I was using my piston stop I thought something was wrong for a second.

My 2511t I haven’t opened up but I did take the limiters off the carbs on both these and I’ll do my little MM I did on my other one on this one. I just cut slits with a grinder right behind the exhaust port bend out and down. Basic but it works.

I’ve been thinking of grinding a little off the key for some timing advance when I go to rebuild but I haven’t got much information on that, also have you ever ran the 1/4 pitch bar and chain combo on these?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sierra_rider]

Hey man how’s it going?

Yeah I normally do it that way but by the time I remembered I already had it already torn down and figured I would be a waste to put broken parts back together for a pressure vac test?
Yeah I’ve read that the white filter is better for filter fines?

Unfortunately my micrometer took a dump and I can’t check my solder properly I have a new one on the way and will check squish eventually. I did notice there is a rather large squish on these saws when I was using my piston stop I thought something was wrong for a second.

My 2511t I haven’t opened up but I did take the limiters off the carbs on both these and I’ll do my little MM I did on my other one on this one. I just cut slits with a grinder right behind the exhaust port bend out and down. Basic but it works.

I’ve been thinking of grinding a little off the key for some timing advance when I go to rebuild but I haven’t got much information on that, also have you ever ran the 1/4 pitch bar and chain combo on these?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've never tried the 1/4 pitch on this saw, getting non-safety 1/4lp, bar, and new sprocket can be pricey. The only non-safety 1/4lp I know is the Panther brand sold on Monkey Beaver, they're an expensive set up. I'm sure the WoodlandPro is as good or close to it and is only $40ish for b/c combo.

 

[Sawyer94]

After checking it out a little better I’ve found that the coil prong is starting to come apart, I’m sure that’s not good but would you guys say? I was thinking of trying to squeeze it back together? Probably not the best idea I know but a new one is $70. Such a bummer to find this but there was some damage to the starter cover assembly, so it must’ve gotten smushed. Looking at around $250 in parts for everything so far.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sawyer94]

I've never tried the 1/4 pitch on this saw, getting non-safety 1/4lp, bar, and new sprocket can be pricey. The only non-safety 1/4lp I know is the Panther brand sold on Monkey Beaver, they're an expensive set up. I'm sure the WoodlandPro is as good or close to it and is only $40ish for b/c combo.

I ran it before and didn’t really notice a substantial difference, but then again I didn’t run them side by side, I ran them on different occasions. I know that archer sells 1/4” chain online but just like you said they are way to expensive for the end outcome in my opinion maybe I’m wrong and they are better but I can’t justify spending the money for it at the moment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[smokey7]

That coil leg spreading apart a little wont hurt a thing i dont think.

 

[old saw fixer]

I've seen coil laminations separate like that more than once repairing saws. It never stopped the saw from running. It's not pretty, but...

 

[Sawyer94]

Saw is all back together and fired up just haven’t had time to actually cut some wood with it yet. Plan on a MM and retune soon. Will give a post cut update but all in all $300 ain’t bad. A new coil would’ve definitely screwed the budget on this one.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sawyer94]

Saw starts and idles sporadic and dies when tipped on its side so I’m guessing seals may be bad but haven’t investigated further. Any place these saws leak air from commonly that I should check? I.e. intake boot or such. Plan to spray soapy water all over and give it a pressure test.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk