200t porting plan feedback

[Al Smith]

I think what you'll find with new rings on a used cylinder things will improve as it runs in .From the onset it should run well enough but it will really pep up once they are fully seated in .As far as piston /head deck clearance it's really difficult to get a truly accurate measurement using soft solder .If memory serves a 200T in stock form is 35 or so thou .Minus 20 thou for the gasket and it should fall within 15 or so thou ,which of course would vary some what .

 

[NorcalFlyingsquirrel]

I think what you'll find with new rings on a used cylinder things will improve as it runs in .From the onset it should run well enough but it will really pep up once they are fully seated in .As far as piston /head deck clearance it's really difficult to get a truly accurate measurement using soft solder .If memory serves a 200T in stock form is 35 or so thou .Minus 20 thou for the gasket and it should fall within 15 or so thou ,which of course would vary some what .

I usually get about 20 thou on the three 200's ive ditched the gasket on, I cut the solder in half and then beat it flat with the piston until i can barely feel it, only 5deg or less on the wheel, I set this one at .015, just to see if it will last.

 

[Ketchup]

Correct me if I’m wrong but your base cut was a good deal deeper than Masterminds. That will bring up your compression some more but it may mean you need to go back in and raise your secondaries. 138 is pretty low.

 

[NorcalFlyingsquirrel]

Correct me if I’m wrong but your base cut was a good deal deeper than Masterminds. That will bring up your compression some more but it may mean you need to go back in and raise your secondaries. 138 is pretty low.

I raised the primary to 125, what should I put the secondaries at, 130?

 

[Al Smith]

Once again if you really study the transfers on these little hot rods it's evident they are huge related to bore size .This is exactly why I didn't try to adjust them only to wind up screwing it up .I did however work over the piston windows a little bit .Now weather or not that did anything or just became an exercise of using a die grinder I really can't say .Like most things debatable .
Adam C. of California sent me the first one as a gift .He only asked me to add some soup to it which I did .Again there are a zillion ways to skin the same cat and most work to some degree .
To me the Stihl models 020T and 200T are the best little trim saws ever made .I can't say as much for those that replaced them though .

 

[Ketchup]

I raised the primary to 125, what should I put the secondaries at, 130?

Give it some run time. If it’s peaky or weak in a deep cut I would go back in. I would try 127 to 129 on the secondaries if you aren’t happy with it as-is.

I actually don’t stagger mine at all (both at 126), but I haven’t had a lot of ported 200t to compare side by side. Staggered may be better or just less work.

 

[NorcalFlyingsquirrel]

Once again if you really study the transfers on these little hot rods it's evident they are huge related to bore size .This is exactly why I didn't try to adjust them only to wind up screwing it up .I did however work over the piston windows a little bit .Now weather or not that did anything or just became an exercise of using a die grinder I really can't say .Like most things debatable .
Adam C. of California sent me the first one as a gift .He only asked me to add some soup to it which I did .Again there are a zillion ways to skin the same cat and most work to some degree .
To me the Stihl models 020T and 200T are the best little trim saws ever made .I can't say as much for those that replaced them though .

For little trim saw, I think the echo 2511 with 1/4 drive and a 14" carving bar is pretty hard to beat, my 200t is more my mid size removal saw and it is amazing for getting through big limbs before they swing down and topping. I used to trim all the time with one and they are my favorite but I havent had tendonitis since the little echo came out.

 

[NorcalFlyingsquirrel]

Give it some run time. If it’s peaky or weak in a deep cut I would go back in. I would try 127 to 129 on the secondaries if you aren’t happy with it as-is.

I actually don’t stagger mine at all (both at 126), but I haven’t had a lot of ported 200t to compare side by side. Staggered may be better or just less work.

It feels pretty good, but I was only brushing out a dead pine yesterday, Ill try and get some cut videos today and see how shes doing deep in the bidness.

 

[Al Smith]

I've got little dead saplings laying everywhere .Every so often I might take a notion to cut up a trailer load for firewood .That is just about the only time I use the 200's for anything except in a tree .It helps if they get some run time you know .So damned many saws it's hard to keep them all exercised .

 

[Ketchup]

For little trim saw, I think the echo 2511 with 1/4 drive and a 14" carving bar is pretty hard to beat, my 200t is more my mid size removal saw and it is amazing for getting through big limbs before they swing down and topping. I used to trim all the time with one and they are my favorite but I havent had tendonitis since the little echo came out.

Couldn’t agree more. My 35cc saws don’t see half the work they used to. 2511 has changed everything. 200t/201t mostly wear 16” bars and do removals now. Lots of times I skip straight to 261.

 

[NorcalFlyingsquirrel]

Give it some run time. If it’s peaky or weak in a deep cut I would go back in. I would try 127 to 129 on the secondaries if you aren’t happy with it as-is.

I actually don’t stagger mine at all (both at 126), but I haven’t had a lot of ported 200t to compare side by side. Staggered may be better or just less work.

Its super snappy and strong on 4 to 6" branches but once its buried with a 16" bar Its kind of weak, I think Ill go back in and grind on the other ones.

 

[NorcalFlyingsquirrel]

Yep it falls flat on its face when going through a 12" log, back in I go.

 

[Al Smith]

I've got 14" bars on mine plus one 12" plus a 16" I could use . The one I tweaked doesn't bog down but that's another subject all together .One ,the unmoded unit I have regular pico chain and the hot rod I have a 7 tooth plus I think they call rapid super pico or something which is chisel chain .That one will dead stick at over 15,000 RPM .Angry little bumble bee thing .Long winded conversation but the moded unit has a cut dome piston and if memory serves around 20 thou piston/head deck clearance from I think 35-37 thou stock .I've never checked what the static compression is but it's got an elasto start pull cord .I've got two additional complete rotating assemblies if I want to put the flat top piston back in which would increase the compression if I wanted to .
Rambling on usually just about any Stihl saw holds enough fuel to run about 40 minutes on a tank full .The hot rod is lucky to get 25 minutes .The only way to get more power is to push more fuel through the engine but if it were used in tree service work that could prove to be a nuisance .It's just a big boys toy to me .

 

[drf256]

Yep it falls flat on its face when going through a 12" log, back in I go.

You try fattening it up a bit first? What may be a zippy tune limbing may not be for a bigger cut. You’d be surprised.

 

[Al Smith]

Old trick used in WW2 .The North American Mustang fighter planes either used an Allison or a Rolls-Royce Merlin engine which were water cooled .Every so often they would get hit hard in the cooling system and cause the cylinder temperature to almost go to melt down .By adjusting the carb to rich and partly closing the choke although they spit and sputtered many made it back over the English channel to fly yet another day .It's a simple fact a rich mixture burns at lower temps .It most likely fried the engine which was a far better option than falling out the sky into the sea .

 

[Al Smith]

Those little saws will get-er-done but you can't lean on them. You have to keep the R's up .All I had for years was a Poulan S25 DA ,fact still have it ,circa 1974 .You just have to know the saw as to how much you can crowd it .

 

[Ketchup]

Bumping up the compression and proper fuel delivery should let you lean on it more than a stock saw. I’ve seen a lot of gutless top handles, but they can be made to carry through the cut with steady pressure. A sharp chain is critical though. Especially on the high strung 200t.

 

[Al Smith]

The older reed valve small saws by design have more lugging power than a piston ported unit .I have a little rear handled Echo that was used by a tree service that is also amazing for it's size and age . However like many is just a shelf queen .

 

[NorcalFlyingsquirrel]

Those little saws will get-er-done but you can't lean on them. You have to keep the R's up .All I had for years was a Poulan S25 DA ,fact still have it ,circa 1974 .You just have to know the saw as to how much you can crowd it .

I have been abusing 200 ts for about 10 years and done some mild port jubs, but this is my first time cutting squish and transfers, and it should at least have equal grunt to a stock one. I also have it set pretty fat for break in, but Im suspicious of the huge gap from one to the other transfer, 25 to 35. Ill try fatter and see what happens.

 

[NorcalFlyingsquirrel]

Bumping up the compression and proper fuel delivery should let you lean on it more than a stock saw. I’ve seen a lot of gutless top handles, but they can be made to carry through the cut with steady pressure. A sharp chain is critical though. Especially on the high strung 200t.

Its a razor sharp full chisel, havent dropped the rakers yet either.