044 project

[MattG]

Progress today. Finished the chainbrake install, and the clutch drum + rim kit. I went for 3/8"/7T rim. I've got an 8T too which I contemplate seeing as I'll probably run mostly a 20" bar (I've got 25" but not often get to use that one )

What's peoples opinions on the rims?

 

[cus_deluxe]

Stick with the 7, if it was me. Ive tried it on a 70cc saw and it just was too easy to bog down.

 

[Basher]

8 pin in softwoods only up to 24" bar, if dealing with mostly hardwood then stick with the 7 pin.. the 7 is the best all around sprocket for everything I do unless cutting small softwoods like pulpwood.

 

[MattG]

thanks guys, that makes sense.

Have just finished for the day.....I crafted the famous "muffler spacer". I eventually shaped it up ok, but I was a little bit disappointed since I guessed (and hence purchased) 4mm ally. Probably should have opted for 5mm, so yeah I ended up needing to slot in a mill thick washer either side, making the reinstall a tad trickier then it shoulda been.

I'm thinking I might be putting some fuel in it, in a couple of days time....

 

[MattG]

Ok, I've got to finish a few more things, but it's basically all assembled. It's such a fantastic clear winter day in South England that I threw on the 25" bar and took a couple of piccies:





Apologies for the glare, it's rather bright out here today!! And my photography skills are a bit of an afterthought...anyway you should get the general idea.

 

[72thing]

Looks really nice man!

 

[Basher]

Looks good Matt and should serve you well, congrats on completing the build.

 

[darkimpulse]

Looks awsome, congrats on the build.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk

 

[blsnelling]

I ground a 1/4" dia. punch til it resembled a 45 degree flare out from center, it works great

A center punch works great.

 

[blsnelling]

Stick with the 7-pin.

 

[BonScott46]

Yes Maulhead,

Thats exactly what I had to contend with. I had to cut out the outer plate just to get to the restrictive inner affair.

Man I went through some wheels. I think what I did must improve airflow pretty good.

(Luckily I didn't have the KAT though!)

I had the same deal. If you look carefully you can see that there are spotwelds holding the divider/baffle in place. I ground out the weldsand popped it out. Takes a bit of time and care to not go too deep though.

 

[MattG]

All I wanted to complete was drilling out the blanking piece for the intellicarb feed on the airfilter box side, and fart around with a couple of wires in the carb box (they won't playing too good with carb screw grommet).

I fuelled her up. And since I didn't want the drama of the first start on the brand new top end on the chainbrake, I started it with just the bar and no chain (just to hold it all in place). Took about 5-6 pulls. The saw was so f**ked when the last guy had it, he must've had the idle jacked right up to keep it running.........the first "natural" idle was ~4k !!!

And the moment of truth, first few blips of throttle, sorry about the quality, sh!t phone, balanced on a milk crate, you can't have everything...

 

[Adamski]

Healthy sounding muffler mod. Nice to see all the assembly oil being burnt off [emoji23]

 

[MattG]

Healthy sounding muffler mod. Nice to see all the assembly oil being burnt off [emoji23]

Yeah, I felt extra nice so I lobbed a few extra drops in the mix!

 

[MustangMike]

Looks + sounds great! Sorry for the misinformation regarding the baffle, but I had never seen or heard of one.

 

[MattG]

Looks + sounds great! Sorry for the misinformation regarding the baffle, but I had never seen or heard of one.

No sweat about the baffle Mike.

Probably won't get to run it properly cutting till the next week end.

My first impression of it is an incredibly snappy throttle response. I'm wondering if paying attention to the POP test is factor there, since I got it to pop off at between 20-25. Who knows.

Anyway, thanks to all the help and opinions from you guys that I got along the way. Made it a lot easier to be able to chew a few ideas over at this place, even if I didn't necessarily act on all of them.

 

[jacob j.]

We both removed some material from the crank big end as well as the case, I wanted .010 or more clearance, may not be totally necessary but better safe than sorry. My transplants went on to work very well with no issues, they are still working as firewooder saws more than 5 years or more.

Yep, .010" or more would be fine.

I did my first one in 2002 (it's hard to believe that was 15 years ago) because I got an early NOS 044 crankcase for free from a local ranch owner. I sold that saw to "Locoweed" (Russ) at Arboristsite and he got nine years out of it before the crank let go. I offered to rebuild it for free...

 

[jacob j.]

Flywheel side has been bodge mended in the past,

View attachment 96409

BTW I love this starter repair...someone had their thinking cap on that day.

 

[MattG]

I did my first one in 2002 (it's hard to believe that was 15 years ago) because I got an early NOS 044 crankcase for free from a local ranch owner. I sold that saw to "Locoweed" (Russ) at Arboristsite and he got nine years out of it before the crank let go. I offered to rebuild it for free...

That's a damn good endorsement that the hybrid crank transplant can work reliably. Thanks! I wouldn't mind getting hold of another sometime. Was certainly fun to do it. Probably need to do some other things first though!

BTW I love this starter repair...someone had their thinking cap on that day.

Well it certainly did the job. The guy had to buy another flywheel, so who can criticise him saving his pennies on the cover?

 

[wyksta]

Yes Maulhead,

Thats exactly what I had to contend with. I had to cut out the outer plate just to get to the restrictive inner affair.

Man I went through some wheels. I think what I did must improve airflow pretty good.

(Luckily I didn't have the KAT though!)

I chickened out and just swapped in a cheap chinese knock off(8.95 delivered direct from China).