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044 build

NZsawyer

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Cheers guys I might try the mallet method. That is if I can get this stupid cylinder bolt out, rounded the bugger completely. Any ideas how to get it out? I've tried tapping in a larger size torx and even a hex but it just keeps getting worse. Driving me nuts!
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Matt Ellerbee

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Cheers guys I might try the mallet method. That is if I can get this stupid cylinder bolt out, rounded the bugger completely. Any ideas how to get it out? I've tried tapping in a larger size torx and even a hex but it just keeps getting worse. Driving me nuts!
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Got a welder? Or dry/blow the lube out and pound in a bigger torx. Hit it in like you mean it. Use something to put downward pressure while you turn bit with a wrench.
 

traffic903

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Is there any part of the torx slots in the head left? If there is just get some heat in there and try again while putting down pressure on it. Or you could JB Weld the torx tool into the head and then burn it out after the bolt is out. Or failing that, like Matt said, welder.
 

PA Dan

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slacker 6202’s C3 clearance are what Stihl used in a few OEM 044’s I have had apart. For what it’s worth [emoji3]
I just bought a bunch of SFK 6202 C3 bearings on eBay for $5.70 each shipped. They have the rubber seals in them that pull right out with a dental pic.
 
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J_M____

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Also put the other 3 bolts back in tight. If that’s the only one left there could be some pressure on that bolt making it harder to turn.
If there’s enough room I would try vice grips clamped onto the head of the bolt.
 

BuckthornBonnie

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I'm running aftermarket seals in my 046, that I rebuilt four years ago and they're doing fine. As long as a guy is running good quality oil mixed correctly, the aftermarket seals do fine and give a good service life.

As Randy has pointed out in other threads- those yellowish, thick aftermarket case gaskets are crap. The thin black paper ones are ok. Even an OEM case gasket now I still fortify with Yamabond.

This is because a lot of modern saws have a long, thin run in the case under the muffler and many larger saws have failures in the gasket there (particularly 084s, 385s, and 064s).

As Al mentioned, any decent brand of 6202 bearing with the right clearance is fine on the flywheel side.
Yep. Mastermech also had a failure with those yellow, waxy gaskets that came in 460 AM gasket kits; they’re junk.

034s without a heat shield and reflecting tape also had failures under that muffler. I’v seen a few come in leaking bar oil. Granted they both had extremely high hours and hard use.

Here’s another vote for gasket plus sealant (518, Yamabond, small amount of others): many saws that get split may have imperfections at the mating surface due to running damage, improper storage, shipping bumps, etc. Sealant may help this and keeps the gasket where ya want it during assembly. Oh, and I have been back into a saw I used 518 on— easy cleanup.
 

NZsawyer

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I went ahead and ordered all oem parts to be on the safe side, forgot to ask if they sell the white paint that goes on the crankcases though. Thinking I might do a few touch ups while it's apart
 

Adirondackstihl

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I went ahead and ordered all oem parts to be on the safe side, forgot to ask if they sell the white paint that goes on the crankcases though. Thinking I might do a few touch ups while it's apart
The white paint they market is absolute garbage.
Don’t waste your $
 

brandonstclair20

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I used GM arctic white paint in a spray can.
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NZsawyer

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Cheers guys I'll have a look around for some. Found a bit of corrosion after I have the crankcase a clean, not too major although I can see through part of the case I shouldn't be able too o_O
Also does anyone have an easy way to remove flywheel? I think I should've done it while the jug was still on...
Also does anyone have an easy way to remove flywheel? I think I should've done it while the jug was still on...
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J_M____

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Just get one of the Chinese flywheel pullers off eBay or directly from huztl, Should be under $10 delivered. You will end up using it often if you play around with filing flywheel keys different amounts to advance the timing
 
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