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036 porting

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Hey i got an o36 stihl that's a little tired out (bout 120psi) have it apart and am looking at the cylinder it appears to be in really nice shape. So I ordered a pop up piston and did some mild cleaning up on casting imperfections and deburring it. Now I'm looking to move onto cylinder I've been doing lots of reading on porting saws and I get the basics with .020 squish and making the air flow up transfers to top of the intake. But I am no porting expert. Did order a degree wheel that's not in yet but once it comes in I'll get some numbers on the saw. Just curious if anyone has any advice before I start grinding and possibly any numbers these saws like. Any help is appreciated thanks.
 

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I forgot to add this saw is gunna be a firewood cutter not a high output cookie cutter
 

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There are a couple of threads somewhere, I will see if I can dig them out.

the 036 is a good old style saw, I was told the ports are already very good, when you delete bg also muf mod & bump the timing (I’ve got 30thou off the key)
The only thing left for me is machine work on the cylinder, which I don’t thing mine needs.


I’m sure others will be along to add there ideas to the mix :)

Btw welcome to the forum
 

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you will soon realise the 034 super has the same size bore, so is really a 036.

Eres a long read to help fill your Boxing Day up

https://opeforum.com/threads/my-drf255-ported-036-video.141/

https://opeforum.com/threads/036-porting.25685/

https://opeforum.com/threads/036-port-build.24874/

https://opeforum.com/threads/stihl-036-rebuild.14584/


Btw I’m sure doc will be popping in and help you along at some time

Edit. Here’s my 036 from a while ago in Ronnie's thread
https://opeforum.com/threads/036-porting.25685/page-2#post-1328428
 

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There are a couple of threads somewhere, I will see if I can dig them out.

the 036 is a good old style saw, I was told the ports are already very good, when you delete bg also muf mod & bump the timing (I’ve got 30thou off the key)
The only thing left for me is machine work on the cylinder, which I don’t thing mine needs.


I’m sure others will be along to add there ideas to the mix :)

Btw welcome to the forum




What do you mean by delete bg? I am aware of the timing advance how many degrees b4 TDC? Seeme to me everyone says 25-30 thou off key and that's that. I did build a pipe for it. If you go on you tube it's the ironhorse pipe. Ordered a new higher flow air filter as well. And some new crank bearings/seals. Don't worry I'm not ordering my stuff off the jungle website I got oem.
 

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What do you mean by delete bg?


it’s Remove the base gasket & use some goop of your choice ( Yama bond, dirco and all the other instant gasket stuffs, etc) to seal the cylinder
If you get your timing numbers before removing the bg, it’s a good idea to check them again as they will be a little bit different, as will the squish.

if your getting the cylinder machined, these numbers will be a bit more important ;)

Btw a few peeps here were using hylomar blue & have had problems, so there not using it anymore
 

Red97

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it’s Remove the base gasket & use some goop of your choice ( Yama bond, dirco and all the other instant gasket stuffs, etc) to seal the cylinder
If you get your timing numbers before removing the bg, it’s a good idea to check them again as they will be a little bit different, as will the squish.

if your getting the cylinder machined, these numbers will be a bit more important ;)

Btw a few peeps here were using hylomar blue & have had problems, so there not using it anymore

What were the issues with hylomar?
 

Wonkydonkey

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What were the issues with hylomar?

i believe @Stump Shot & @Mastermind had issues abit later down the road.
Well that’s what I thought I read in a thread somewhere.

but I’m happy to be told I got the wrong end of the stick..;)

edit, I replied and just seen Ed had already replied :campeon:
 

Mastermind

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I think both Randy and Steve had air leak problems with it?
@Mastermind and @Stump Shot

I'm not 100% sure I had an air leak because of it......but after disassembling a saw a few years down the road, I didn't like how thin (practically non-existent) the sealer was.
 

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I'm not 100% sure I had an air leak because of it......but after disassembling a saw a few years down the road, I didn't like how thin (practically non-existent) the sealer was.

If the particular item I had would of not had a thick spot due to warpage it probably wouldn't have washed(pushed) out.
I tried some with Motoseal and a couple with Dirko and seemed okay, but, I tend to go back to good old 1184 that I know works and have a long history with, so gives me the warm fuzzy's when I use it vs something new to me.
After cleaning up saw's that someone else did with Dirko, I'm not big a fan... pita.
 

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If the particular item I had would of not had a thick spot due to warpage it probably wouldn't have washed(pushed) out.
I tried some with Motoseal and a couple with Dirko and seemed okay, but, I tend to go back to good old 1184 that I know works and have a long history with, so gives me the warm fuzzy's when I use it vs something new to me.
After cleaning up saw's that someone else did with Dirko, I'm not big a fan... pita.

Dirko is all I will use now. Nothing against 1184 though. I've used it on hundreds of saws I'd say.
 

farminkarman

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After cleaning up saw's that someone else did with Dirko, I'm not big a fan... pita.
Being a Dirko user myself, I will attest to the pain it is to clean up the gasket surfaces when I have had to go back into a saw....but it sure does bond well.
 

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Okay just got degree wheel in mail today. Will check sometime after work this week to see what my squish is at. I don't have access to a lath so I'll see what I can do as far as the 20 tho.
 

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Just curious if anyone has any advice before I start grinding and possibly any numbers these saws like.
Welcome to the forum. I'm not a porter, just my own saws, but these are the numbers I used on my 034 with a 036 top end.

EX 105
TR 125
IN 81 curved up to 78


 
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