New to Porting

huskihl · Dec 5, 2018

I cut the bottom out of a water bottle and add whatever is closest. Sometimes it's charcoal lighter fluid, bar oil in a squirt can, or some cheap spray oil from the dollar store. Once the bits or emery cloth get loaded up with shavings I dunk it in the oil and go back to it. Good enough for who it's for

Nutball · Dec 5, 2018

CC had a tube of wax. They should know what's best, but...

I would've got it, but that wouldn't fit in my paypal credit limit (the straw...ect)

huskihl · Dec 5, 2018

Nutball said:
CC had a tube of wax. They should know what's best, but...

I would've got it, but that wouldn't fit in my paypal credit limit (the straw...ect)

I doubt there is a "best". Just depends on how much $ you want to spend to keep a burr from loading up. Once an alumahog slows down, one dip in whatever is in the jug and it's instantly cutting like new again.

NCFarmboy · Dec 5, 2018

Nutball said:
CC had a tube of wax. They should know what's best, but...

I would've got it, but that wouldn't fit in my paypal credit limit (the straw...ect)

I bought the wax. Don't bother I wasted my money. Dip in kerosene out of my parts washer. Good to go.
Shep

mdavlee · Dec 5, 2018

Chalk or soapstone works too. Any old candle will work and smells good if it’s klotz scented

Nutball · Dec 5, 2018

Klotz smells good enough to eat like candy.

I've got lamp oil, so I'll use that

Deets066 · Dec 5, 2018

I’ve got some tap magic aluminum cutting fluid, been using that. Sometimes I put a little oil with it too.

Billy Currie · Dec 6, 2018

Boelube works pretty good, comes in a solid wax or liquid.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/cata...erm=4580977758698486&utm_content=All Products

Nutball · Dec 13, 2018

This is what I have so far, I was hoping for more 1/8" bits considering I went with the 182 option. I got extra rubber abrasives, I've liked the one I use on my dremel, so it was a must have. I don't know if I'll use the sanders much or not. I guess I'll end up using the 1/4" bits in a mill or drill press.

What else do you recommend I get? What are your must have attachments? Ideally something for grinding away the chrome before grinding the aluminum under it. I'll need to practice with what I have before trying any Hog bits.

I got the smallest 90 deg tool for doing 15-30cc engines.

Redfin · Dec 13, 2018

Get some diamond balls. 8 or 10mm. Work well for chamfering the edges and cutting plating.

Nutball · Dec 13, 2018

Where are some good places in the US to find bits? I only know of CC right now, and McMaster Carr, and ebay doesn't have a good US selection.

srcarr52 · Dec 13, 2018

Nutball said:
Where are some good places in the US to find bits? I only know of CC right now, and McMaster Carr, and ebay doesn't have a good US selection.

RJ Tool and Supply is the parent store on Buckeye carbide. McMaster I'm pretty sure resells Buckeye carbide burrs and Lasco diamond grit burrs.

https://www.ebay.com/str/RJ-Tool-and-Supply?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Here is what I use the most of.
51 size: 1/4 head, 1/8 shaft burrs, egg shaped
(SE-51) single cut
(SE-51D) double cut
(SE-51NF) single cut hogging

Other shapes:
SD is ball.
SC is cone, (cylinder with round tip).
SF is flame.
SG is pointed, pine tree.

SE-53 is great for tight corners... 3/16" diameter head.
SE3-45NF, great 1/4" shaft burr for roughing exhaust ports, high spiral reduces chatter.

Nutball · Dec 14, 2018

Any recommendations on a specific compression gauge? I assume they have adapters to fit small saws like a ms150 or 2511t

Nutball · Dec 14, 2018

There's not much you can do with a 391 right? They kind of all around suck in my opinion. Anyway I got started in one of the most obvious places I could find other than the exhaust port.

huskyboy · Dec 14, 2018

Nutball said:
There's not much you can do with a 391 right? They kind of all around suck in my opinion. Anyway I got started in one of the most obvious places I could find other than the exhaust port.

View attachment 154845 View attachment 154846 View attachment 154847

Lol that is a odd port arrangement. I always wondered what those newer homeowner stihl looked like inside.

Nutball · Dec 14, 2018

I've seen several different kinds of 390/391 cylinders. This older 391 has a different cooling fin design from a more recent 391 I've been using.

There's no good way to add fingers or bridges to this without installing a non strato piston. I think a non strato piston would really open up the options. It would allow for a much bigger intake port, fingers and bridges...well might as well just grind all new port paths and convert it back to old style non strato.

Has anyone here de-stratified a saw? Just curious.

Anyway I started out grinding away chrome where I would open the ports using a harbor freight dremel since I have a lot of stones and diamond bits that came with it. Then I decided to just try it out with an old carbide burr. Slow going, otherwise I would have opened that port a good bit more. I'm going to give the 182 a go.

Nutball · Dec 20, 2018

I just got new burrs in today, and got to the exhaust port on an aftermarket 260 cylinder I'm practicing on. There's a lot of metal to move, so I tried a hog burr. I started off with a lot of chatter until I got a feel for using it. Now I'm getting it to cut smoothly, but I noticed what looked like chipping, and sure enough. What's your experience with these? It still cuts well.

Nutball · Dec 21, 2018

Grinding's about as fun as cutting wood, easy to let an hour slip by.

I'm almost done with this 260 cylinder. It would be great if it could be test run.

So, what do y'all think so far. Good? Bad?

Billy Currie · Dec 21, 2018

Not bad, looks good. I don't know what your plans are for an intake, but I have used an 029/039 intake boot to replace the 026 intake boot after porting. I think I have also seen where others use to 066 intake boot.

I had to make a metal ring to press on the 026 intake port to make up the size difference in the 029 boot and the 026 boot, fyi.

Nutball · Jan 11, 2019

Do any of you ever use the sanding rolls from CC Specialty? How do you keep them from slipping on the mandrel so easily?

I'm looking for a good way to open a muffler inlet to match the cylinder, but the thickness of the muffler in that area is around 1/4" thick steel. I figured 80 grit sanding rolls might do a good job so I don't risk ruining carbide bits, and grinding stones are very slow. Small cutoff wheels just don't fit the shape well and are also slow. I just can't get the sanding roll to stick well enough to get good sanding speed out of it. It already slips too easily with light sanding.

New to Porting

Muh fingers look really big

Here For The Long Haul!

Muh fingers look really big

Pinnacle OPE Member

Hillbilly grinder

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AKA Deetsey

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Meh...

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Shop rat, backyard slice cutter.

Here For The Long Haul!

Here For The Long Haul!

Sorta a husqvarna guy...

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Here For The Long Haul!

Here For The Long Haul!

Pinnacle OPE Member

Here For The Long Haul!

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