Husqvarna hatred

[Cooper264]

Im a stihl guy, always have been, always will. But I do own a few of the forbidden orange fruit.

Got out my oldest 365 (first saw) and decided to run my first leakdown test on it. I rebuilt the saw not too long ago and it ran, but had 1/4 of the power it should have. So I figured I put the crank seals in wrong or something. Everything mechanical on the saw is new and I'm fairly confident in my assembly skills, just not my seal skills.

I have hated this saw ever since I first started working on it because its just hard to work on. Like the intake boot for example. You practically have to disassemble half of the saw or the jug to get the damn thing off...And thats what I did. After spilling gas everywhere, ruining an intake clamp, and much profanity, i got the intake boot off and decided that was enough for the night.... Then it hit me. How in the hell am I supposed to clamp the nice little rubber piece in the leakdown kit over my GD intake hole without the carb on... Here's a hint: by leaving the GD carb and intake boot, and the other half of the saw together and just blocking the carb.

Here's a prime example of not enough knowledge mixed with yet again not enough knowledge. It's not the huskies fault,,, but it makes me hate them even more.

 

[Czed]

I'll take it.

 

[Cooper264]

I'll take it.

runs and idles fine, but has like virtually no power in the cut. You reckon it's the seals?

 

[Duce]

EZ saw to work on. Pull muffler and carb, plug decompression. Block exhaust and intake with gaskets and plates, easy to make. Can even do it with duct tape under muffler and gasket, pull vacuum through impulse line, block intake with duct tape.

 

[David Young]

Muffler screen? Air filter. Bad coil. Scored/ low comp? Bad/leaking decomp. How is the spark?

 

[Duce]

Fuel filter, crack in fuel or impulse line.

 

[Mattyo]

Impulse line issue would be my vote.

Did you split the case when you did the rebuild?

 

[Cooper264]

Great comp, new muffler, new fuel lines and filter, new P/C, good spark.

Maybe Compression leak.... Sooooo. I'm an idiot. @David Young When I redid the saw, I slapped on a Chinese FT decomp because I was wanting to plug it after I saw how she ran. Ran like S**t in the cut. Started it up a few days later to show dad how all my parts and hard work didn't pay off (he likes to talk crap to me about working on saws) And the decomp guts blew out of the side of the saw when I started it. I never tried starting the saw again. I threw another plug in it when I got it in the shop, thats why I know it has good compression. I bet you anything that the FT decomp was flugged up when I first started the saw and was giving a considerable amount of compression loss, thus causing the extensive loss in power.

Im still gonna do a leakdown test to be sure but If you wouldn't have said anything I would have never thought about it

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

runs and idles fine, but has like virtually no power in the cut. You reckon it's the seals?

I'd be willing to bet it's either a bad throttle cable or sheered flywheel key.


Steven

 

[MG2186]

Can’t believe anyone would think a 300 series Husky is hard to work on. I consider them one of the easiest. To each and their own

 

[Cooper264]

I'd be willing to bet it's either a bad throttle cable or sheered flywheel key.


Steven

Throttle cable functions as it should, I spent alot of time looking at it kuz I figured it would be stuck in its little rubber insulating jacket thing. Don't know about the flywheel key though. I did replace the flywheel and im pretty particular about properly torqueing (ive had a few sheer on my 660 clone builds). Might have to look into that tomorrow. I wouldn't think it would idle with the flywheel out of time though

 

[Cooper264]

Can’t believe anyone would think a 300 series Husky is hard to work on. I consider them one of the easiest. To each and their own

I've gotten spoiled by larger frame stihls. I can yank apart a 460,660, 880 in little to no time at all. I guess if I had more experience with huskies I would be a little better off. I just get frustrated when I work on them. Like with the intake boot. Short of taking off the jug, i had to take half of the saw apart to get it out of there

 

[Cooper264]

Impulse line issue would be my vote.

Did you split the case when you did the rebuild?

Yes. split case, removed crank and seals. Put in new oil seals and bearings. Had a tough time getting the case gasket off completely but ended up getting it replaced. I may have had a nick somewhere on the crank halves as well that didn't want to seal right. leakdown testing tomorrow will tell the tell

 

[Duce]

Did you rebuild carb? Clean screen? Air gap correct? For your leak down test, did you install an o-ring or sealant between crank and oil pump bushing?

 

[Cooper264]

Did you rebuild carb? Clean screen? Air gap correct?

Its a new one

 

[Cooper264]

Like i said, this was my first saw. So I spared no expense making her right. Everything on the saw is new except for the tank, case, and crank, starter, clutch cover and the plastics

 

[Duce]

Its a new one

H side needle 3/4-1 turn open to start, one out on L side, then tune it? AM carb?

 

[huskihl]

Can’t believe anyone would think a 300 series Husky is hard to work on. I consider them one of the easiest. To each and their own

I always thought a 372 and 390 were the easiest. Pop some clips and 3 screws and it’s all right there

 

[MG2186]

I always thought a 372 and 390 were the easiest. Pop some clips and 3 screws and it’s all right there

I concur

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

I always thought a 372 and 390 were the easiest. Pop some clips and 3 screws and it’s all right there

You and me both!

Can pull the jug with the carb and muffler if you wanted to on them and leave the half wrap in place. Definitely a favorite.




Steven