Yes. If only choosing between those 2 oils, you’re much better off using the orange bottle conventional oil. The Ultra is a sales gimmick and burns dirty.Is there benifits or problems using stihl ultra synthetic vs stihl conventional 2 stroke oil?
Nice post. Who are you?Yes. If only choosing between those 2 oils, you’re much better off using the orange bottle conventional oil. The Ultra is a sales gimmick and burns dirty.
There are already a couple oil threads, and they usually turn into a lot of arguments. True synthetic is superior to conventional in every way. Problem is that oils can be marketed as synthetic with as little as 15% synthetic base stocks in them.. So be careful what you buy into. Do your research. Pick an oil and ratio, and run it.
I’d recommend Amsoil, but I’m a little biased. Lastly, running a heavier mix, like 40:1 or 32:1 is better over all and won’t cause any problems provided the carburetor is tuned properly. More oil for the crank bearings keeps that engine alive longer with less wear.
Jack. Jack of all trades.Nice post. Who are you?
Use enough f's ?Jack. Jack of all trades.
I’m not picking up what you’re putting down..Use enough f's ?
I've tried reading the other threads and i get a headache. I thank you for your response! Now, i just got turned on to a gallon of amsoil sabre.Yes. If only choosing between those 2 oils, you’re much better off using the orange bottle conventional oil. The Ultra is a sales gimmick and burns dirty.
There are already a couple oil threads, and they usually turn into a lot of arguments. True synthetic is superior to conventional in every way. Problem is that oils can be marketed as synthetic with as little as 15% synthetic base stocks in them.. So be careful what you buy into. Do your research. Pick an oil and ratio, and run it.
I’d recommend Amsoil, but I’m a little biased. Lastly, running a heavier mix, like 40:1 or 32:1 is better over all and won’t cause any problems provided the carburetor is tuned properly. More oil for the crank bearings keeps that engine alive longer with less wear.
Great choice!I've tried reading the other threads and i get a headache. I thank you for your response! Now, i just got turned on to a gallon of amsoil sabre.
Amsoil synthetics are superior in every way. Colder pour points, high temperature stable, cleaner, etc. You can’t go wrong with Sabre.Even though it is synthetic?
50:1 would be double what Sabre claims to be adequate at 100:1Yes. If only choosing between those 2 oils, you’re much better off using the orange bottle conventional oil. The Ultra is a sales gimmick and burns dirty.
There are already a couple oil threads, and they usually turn into a lot of arguments. True synthetic is superior to conventional in every way. Problem is that oils can be marketed as synthetic with as little as 15% synthetic base stocks in them.. So be careful what you buy into. Do your research. Pick an oil and ratio, and run it.
I’d recommend Amsoil, but I’m a little biased. Lastly, running a heavier mix, like 40:1 or 32:1 is better over all and won’t cause any problems provided the carburetor is tuned properly. More oil for the crank bearings keeps that engine alive longer with less wear.
I would run it at 40:1 - 50:1 if it was up to me..50:1 would be double what Sabre claims to be adequate at 100:1
I also use Dominator but at 32:1I recently switched to dominator at 40:1 and it feels like my saws make more power
Correct, given you only keep enough fuel around that you’ll use within 2-3 months.So I don't need sta-bil in my saber mix?
I have been running Sabre at 50:1 for the last 20+ years.I also use Dominator but at 32:1
For those that don’t know, Dominator does not have a fuel stabilizer in its additive package. Saber does have stabilizers for longer storage between uses.. Something to keep in mind. Doesn’t affect me because I use my saws almost daily.