Wright Reciprocating and Chainsaws

[jacob j.]

I didn't see a Wright thread so I thought I'd start one. Here's the innards from a Wright B-520. The piston on the left is a passive piston to which the blade is connected:

 

[Stump Shot]

Pretty neat old saws for sure @jacob j.

Here's an old Wright Rebel I worked on some time ago, cutting at the speed of smell.
To be fair I am not sure if I sharpened it correctly or not being the first time I messed with one. Pretty sure it wouldn't have cut at all had I not.

 

[heimannm]

Steve - understand that the blade only moves a fraction of an inch, you have to provide some "sawing" action of your own to clear the chips from the kerf. Next time try moving the saw back at forth as you cut far enough to match the diameter of the piece you're cutting, that way you are clearing the chips.

I have a nice GS5020 and B-520 in the display already. I have a Rebel conglomerate and a very early model with the "rod" to drive the blade coming right off the top of the piston.





These photos are from a similar model another collector has.





Mark

 

[Stump Shot]

Thanks Mark @heimannm
That one went back on its way to its owner, not sure if I'll ever get another shot at it or not, I'll remember if I ever happen to.
I actually do have one here, it's locked up and is just a wall hanger though.
One interesting note I happened upon when studying these saws, a meat/bone "blade" was available for hunters to quarter large game in the field.

 

[Coupe]

I picked this old girl up at an auction. All it needed was a bit of TLC and
runs fine. It is just part of my collection as if you want to cut wood with them
you probably need most of the day to do it. The engine stop is on the trigger.
To start it move it to the left and to stop it just let it go.
Would think that,s the saftey feature on it as no clutch so the blade is going all the time.
Someone here may be able to tell me the correct age as have heard several different
ages. 1951 to 1957 was the year they were first built.

 

[jacob j.]

I picked this old girl up at an auction. All it needed was a bit of TLC and
runs fine. It is just part of my collection as if you want to cut wood with them
you probably need most of the day to do it. The engine stop is on the trigger.
To start it move it to the left and to stop it just let it go.
Would think that,s the saftey feature on it as no clutch so the blade is going all the time.
Someone here may be able to tell me the correct age as have heard several different
ages. 1951 to 1957 was the year they were first built.

Very cool!

 

[heimannm]

They had a number of blade options, timber/firewood, carpentry/construction, meat/bone, and perhaps others as well.

Mark

 

[jacob j.]

Thanks Mark @heimannm
That one went back on its way to its owner, not sure if I'll ever get another shot at it or not, I'll remember if I ever happen to.
I actually do have one here, it's locked up and is just a wall hanger though.
One interesting note I happened upon when studying these saws, a meat/bone "blade" was available for hunters to quarter large game in the field.

The owner of the logging company I used to work for had the meat/bone blade attachment for his Wright. It's still displayed in the company saw shop.

 

[Bill G]

Well I live in rural country and we still have a butcher that does on site, on farm, harvesting. I have had them here many times. Not pleasant for some to see but efficient. It takes 60 minutes from when they arrive and the steer is standing until they are leaving with it quartered in the ole C-60 refer truck.

They use an old reciprocating saw.

 

[heimannm]

I have this Wright on the workbench for a thorough cleaning. I cannot find any identification on the saw and I'm curious about the model. I am also in need of an air filter cover...

From looking at Mike Acres site I'd say it may be a B316 or GS-2016 ? ?



Anyway, it is apart now...



...and all cleaned up.



Someone had tried to repair the spark plug wire...



...unsuccessfully.



Mark

 

[heimannm]

Equipped with a Carter NRD carburetor.



This is one of the models with the drive rod for the blade coming right off the top of the piston.



The engine is installed in the chassis with some rods through brass bushing and equipped with rubber AV mounts. After removing the set screws the rods can be extracted using a slide hammer.



Like the other blade saws, pushing the throttle trigger to the left when you release it keeps the saw running at idle (with the blade moving), pushing the trigger to the right and releasing it lets the trigger contact the lead from the coil grounding the ignition and stopping the engine.



Mark

 

[heimannm]

I replaced the crankshaft seals (5/8 x 13/16), I think these were leftover from some Poulan project. I didn't have a Carter NRD kit so I did not pull the carburetor apart but the saw definitely runs on a prime. Maybe one day I will be motivated to search for the NRD kit and turn the saw into a real runner...

I do believe the seals in the head are leaking a bit as I could see some residue spitting out the front of the saw after running it off the primer can.

I do hope to find an air filter cover sometime as this saw is just too nice to leave it partially undressed.

It was missing one of the rear AV bumpers but I found an unused bushing from a shock absorber that fit well with just a little trimming.



As I noted previously, the engine is mounted on rods and those AV bushings damp the vibration as the engine moves on the mounts. This photo show the front mount installed.



The finished saw looks pretty good except for the missing AF cover.





I did spend some time going over the ignition, replaced the plug wire and some other iffy connections and was pretty sure I should have a spark. It would not spark spinning it over with a drill (based on the way the starter was set up when I got it) but it made a good spark going the other way. Turns out someone working on the saw previously had put the starter together backwards (possible with this style Fairbanks Morse starter mechanism) including the recoil spring. I was able to flip the parts around and eventually get the starter to engage quite reliably and the saw would readily start and run with a shot down the carburetor.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

These both arrived this week.











Mark

 

[heimannm]

We got the 111 cleaned up today.











Looks a bit like a Poulan XX...

Mark

 

[heimannm]

We also got a good start on cleaning up the C70. Notice the "Start - Run" button next to the large manual oiler lever, more on that below.







I have not seen this feature on a chainsaw before, the "Start - Run" button is connected to the magneto and allows you to retard the timing for starting, then advance it for running and cutting.

"Start" position rotates the magneto CCW to retard the timing.



Moving the button to the "Run" position rotates the magneto CW to advance the timing.



Mark

 

[heimannm]

The C70 is almost done. I am not going to try and service the carburetor (Carter NRD) but with the ignition repaired it runs on prime.





I have to decide if I will leave the bar as it and display it with the remaining paint visible (top photo) or see if I can hit it with the surface preparation tool and take it all down to the base steel.

I need to find a suitable muffler as well, or just display it with the clutch side towards the wall.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

I also received this GS-218 today. According to Mike Acres site this saw was built in Stratford, CT (Wright Power Saw & Tool Corp) 1957-1958.

Someone already went to a lot of effort to clean it up and refresh the paint. I may see about giving the bar a polish with the surface preparation tool but I probably won't do any more than wipe it down.





Check out the muffler...



...directs the exhaust away from the operator.



Mark

 

[heimannm]

I acquired another B316 (still need an AF cover for one) and decided to investigate the "drive rod" seal a bit further.

Initially I thought I was seeing a conventional lip seal but it turns out it is a brass bushing.






Behind the brass bushing is was appears to be a graphite seal, I could not tell much about what was further down in there.



Mark

 

[stihl #1]

Mark, once somewhere, maybe at Wayne Suttons place, I was shown a canvas roll up bag with 4 sets of blades for a Wright recip saw. One was coarse, then med, then fine for cutting wood. The 4th set was for cutting up animals. Have you ever come across a set like that?
Just curious, Eddie

 

[heimannm]

I know that they had all of those blade options, and I have a few different types on hand but I have never seen a full set assembled like that.

Mark