Want to mill own lumber. Would like input. New to it.

[turbowrenchhead]

Hello everyone. This is my first post. I've been researching an affordable way to mill my own lumber. We have about 30-40 adult spurce trees we have to remove to clear an area for a large pole barn. My first thought was how was I going to get rid of all that wood. Then after we priced out some lumber to build a small shed I was shocked at the estimate. So I though why not mill all of it. I've been reading on and off for the past week. I've learned that you want a powerful saw. I'm partial to Husqvarna. I grew up in the logging industry and that's what we used. I have a 445 and it's never failed me. I seen that you can mod saws with a pop up piston, big bore and muffler. I don't know if this is necessary or not. I found a used 372xp non x torq. For $550. I think it would be a good candidate for the mods. However no one has a out of box pop up for it. At least none that I found. I've been looking at the Alaskan jigs as a alternative. A good one is under 300 and a nice metal ladder/slide is under 200. And they're available now.
The portamill PM14 looks like a nice set up for the money. However it's 8-10 weeks out.
I have a $2000 budget to work with.
I'm a powersports repair shop owner.
I'm handy with small engine and rebuilds. So the mods on the chainsaw seem practical to me.
I appreciate any information. Thanks in advance.

 

[walkdog]

You got good advice on the other site - unsure why you’re reposting verbatim here.

Hire a portable bandsaw mill unless you’re really a glutton for punishment.

If you’re absolutely hell bent on a quixotic chainsaw milling quest, a 372xp isn’t a good choice for a milling saw. You want 90+ CCs. Modded top ends aren’t typically used for milling as they run even closer to the ragged edge, and chainsaw milling is absolute torture on saws. Muffler mods to get the heat away from the saw quicker are encouraged, though.

A proper CSM setup will run you your full $2k budget, and will require a serious investment of time and suffering to accomplish your goal.

If you’re chainsaw milling anything other than high value large diameter logs with limited machine access, you’re just dicking around with a saw rather than using your precious time in an efficient manner

 

[Guido Salvage]

If you plan to mill 40 trees with a chain saw mill you are obviously a glutton for punishment. I lack the patience to mill with a chain saw and you will need more than a 70 cc saw unless you have pecker poles.

Since $2K will not get you in a band mill just have someone cut them for you unless you want to be sweating behind a saw all summer.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Im gonna assume you have LOTS of time and milling with a chainsaw is really a desire for you.
Personally for the first merry go round I would purchase a farmertech clone ms660 92cc saw or wait a few weeks and get the ms880 clone 122cc , after tackling 40 trees then see where your desire to continue is and purchase a real pro saw.
Just my 2 cents.

 

[Guido Salvage]

I knocked these out on my band mill tonight, I had planned to cut them into 2x4’s and 2x6’s but they looked too nice.

 

[Joe P]

The portamill PM14 looks like a nice set up for the money. However it's 8-10 weeks out.

Ordered a PM14 about the middle of May and got everything but my 10' track section in about 2 weeks. Just got notice today that my track section shipped so, it was about 5 weeks to get the whole thing. I wasn't expecting anything until middle of August, so it was a nice surprise.

 

[thedude74]

Having milled quite a bit of lumber on an Alaskan mill and bandsawmill I'll give you my $.02. My first question....what is the diameter or average diameter of the trees?

I've milled up to 20" diameter spruce with an Granberg Alskan mill with a Stihl 039...its slow...and not the right saw for the job....same mill with a Makita 7900....its also slow though better....making one pass 12' long takes several minutes. Like the others stated milling is hard on saws due to heat. A big saw..like xp 395 or still 660 min. Would be better. Regardless, a chainsaw mill is really slow.

I made my own rail/guide setup out of lumber for the chainsaw mill. Getting it fastened, leveled and the Granberg mill set to depth is also time consuming.

I also own a Hudson Hunter 7hp bandsaw mill.
Though it's limited to about 20" diameter max it cuts about 50 times faster than my chainsaw mill. Literally, not exaggerating. That mill cost me $3000 with 15 spare blades...shipped to Alaska.Worth every penny.

The only downside with the bandsaw mill is getting the logs to the mill. You'll need equipment like a tractor or skidsteer.

 

[EbS-P]

Just finished four 3x6s and I can say that the ergonomics of the PM 14 look very appealing. I’m beat after 3 slabs and 4 posts in two afternoons (it’s been in the low 90s). Bent over slab of a big log on the ground then bent over what’s left of the log to use a beam cutter is no way to do 30+ trees. Hope it works well for you.