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oologahan

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I just finished restoring this 1968 Homelite Super XP1020 automatic today. This the 5th or 6th 100cc plus Homelite I've restored. All in all out of 63 runners I have about 20 restored, including a 750, 550, 410SL, 2000, 2100, XP1130G Automatic and this Super XP1020A. My wife and I both have some health issues that are not going to get better so I don't know how long I can hold on to these saws. I will probably eBay them and I really hate to do so, but there really isn't a better way to sell them. About 20 of my saws are Terry built Homelites and they don't make decals for most of them, but I will be restoring a many as I can until my decal supplier runs out of available decals.
 

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hacskaroly

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I will be restoring a many as I can until my decal supplier runs out of available decals.
That is a fantastic restoration job, the saw looks really nice! I am sorry to hear about your health, but if restoring chainsaws helps you keep going, keep going!! Would it be possible on the next one you restore to create a thread and show how you go through the process to restore one of your saws? I would be very interested how you fill in chain gouges and mix and apply paint. I have a couple of saws that are pretty well beat up, but could use some love. I am not necessarily looking to make them showpieces like above, but removing unnecessary scratches, gouges and chipped paint spots will make clean up of bar/chain oil and saw chips much easier!
 

oologahan

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That is a fantastic restoration job, the saw looks really nice! I am sorry to hear about your health, but if restoring chainsaws helps you keep going, keep going!! Would it be possible on the next one you restore to create a thread and show how you go through the process to restore one of your saws? I would be very interested how you fill in chain gouges and mix and apply paint. I have a couple of saws that are pretty well beat up, but could use some love. I am not necessarily looking to make them showpieces like above, but removing unnecessary scratches, gouges and chipped paint spots will make clean up of bar/chain oil and saw chips much easier!
I hand sand the saw to remove paint edges then use two applications and rinses of a strong cleanser like purple power to remove grease and let air dry. Do not sand blast or use compressed air on a saw untill it has been degreased, it forces the grease and oils down into the porous magnesium. Then I fill gouges with JB weld and sand smooth, smaller nicks can be filled with spot putty. I use USC Spray Max 2k Epoxy Rust Cure Aerosol Primer in a spray can made by Spray Max, you activate the hardener by a push button on the bottom then you can use a sanding/filler spray primer on smaller nicks and scratches, blow and and tack cloth the dust off and you're ready to paint. I use Eastwood 2K Aerospray High Temperature Ceramic Engine Gloss Red. I have mixed my own paints before, but this is much easier and cheaper in the long run unless you are going to do multiple saws. The primer and paint can be found on eBay. If you want to mix an alkyd/urethane enamel with a hardener I highly suggest using Eastwoods clear gloss 2 part epoxy spray for a top coat
 

hacskaroly

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I use USC Spray Max 2k Epoxy Rust Cure Aerosol Primer in a spray can made by Spray Max
Awesome, I will take a look at this stuff...good information to read and reread. Luckily I have some JB Weld on hand and can start giving that a try!!
 

oologahan

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Awesome, I will take a look at this stuff...good information to read and reread. Luckily I have some JB Weld on hand and can start giving that a try!!
Just make sure the gouges are cleaned and oils removed. Also use a coarse sandpaper inside the gouges to rough them up
 
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