Square ground angles, please

[Moparmyway]

Get that LH tooth side cutter straight or 1-2 degrees forward lean, looks like she’s leaning back a fuzz

 

[pbillyi69]

i agree totally....make sure that each tooth is pushed all the way down in the groove before you grind on it. they have a tendency to lift when you slide the chain forward.

 

[davidwyby]

Euc doesn’t make long chips

 

[pbillyi69]

its fun when you get it just right for the wood you are cutting it goes through like butter and makes long ribbons

 

[davidwyby]

What’s wrong with Oregon out of the box square, and what do you change?

 

[davidwyby]

 

[pbillyi69]

What’s wrong with Oregon out of the box square, and what do you change?

when i didnt have access to a grinder i would take the rakers down two full strokes with the file. which i still do. i always gring new chains to my angles because they cut way better.

 

[Squareground3691]

What’s wrong with Oregon out of the box square, and what do you change?

I think it’s all about fine tuning, to ur needs and just like round chain, always needs touching up even new stuff , although C83 cuts pretty well new , with a couple swipes off the rakers,

 

[pbillyi69]

I think it’s all about fine tuning, to ur needs and just like round chain, always needs touching up even new stuff , although C83 cuts pretty well new , with a couple swipes off the rakers,

edzacery

 

[mrxlh]

Here’s the latest from me. I’ve switched over to the CBN wheels for my grinding and I think I’m happy. I use Diamondwheel’s 4 3/4” diameter 3/16” for round grind and gullet/raker removal and I sprung for one of Cowlitz River Rigging’s CBN Square grind wheels. At $300 it was a bit of a risk considering I had no idea what angles were set up in the wheel. It’s also an electroplated wheel so the abrasive is only skin deep. I was reassured it would be good for “hundreds of chains” and could be plated again for half the original cost.

When talking with the fellow at Cowlitz I was told the wheel would only work on the Simington swing arm, not on a Silvey RSII. After using it on the Simington I think the Silvey certainly could be set up to use it.

I went from one extreme to the other when trying to find a suitable grind and found the best (so far) by moving the chain in as far as possible and lowering the chain holder as low as you can go.
View attachment 404605
Here are the results on a 3/8 .063. I was able to get this with very little material removal. It went very fast. There were a few cutters where the side plate didn’t fully develop and a few where I just nicked the chassis. I was having trouble getting the chain to lie flat in the holder (new .063) and I think that contributed to those exceptions. View attachment 404607
The wheel is 6 3/4” in diameter and is steel (heavy). There is NO dust and no dressing the wheel. That contributes to the speed of the operation. I back my grinder up to my gunsafe and the iron filings bounce off the door and fall to the floor where I can vacuum them up.
It’s great. The absence of the dust and no dressing is what I’m happiest with. The grinding is at least as good as with a stone wheel and maybe could be better with more experience .
View attachment 404608
I’m very happy with all this. I will probably move it over to the Silvey and give it a try. I’ll measure the distance from the chain holder to the bottom of the wheel and lower the slide on the Silvey to match. It should run fine.
Edit: I was so pleased with the outcome I forgot to mention a big CON concerning the Cowlitz wheel. It didn’t fit my 1” arbor. It should have, it’s advertised as having a 1” hole. It came in at .980 as best as I could measure. Wasn’t too big a deal for me as I have access to a lathe, and was able to get it just right. But for someone who does not and paid $300, I recon it’d be a big deal. I called Cowlitz and was told they were aware and were working to get it fixed with the manufacturer.

Have you tried this wheel on your RS2 yet?