jake wells
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are the rails stellate coated
I was wondering about that earlier.I'd really like to see someone test one of the new 20" NK bars on a Dolmar 6100. I know it would be lighter and quicker handling, but whether it would cut faster is an unknown. Probably have to use an 8-pin for the NK.
With a 20" bar buried there may be a 'chip clearance' issue with the NK.
I've had 18" bars that were more narrow, but they sometimes had a tendency to go into resonance in certain cutting conditions.
you can tuna fish but you can tuna bar.Maybe you need to 'tune' your bar?
Philbert
Good question. I want a light weight 20" .325 for a ported 346.These bars have been out for a while now.
Anybody have any new feedback about them?
Will the bar be trashed the first time he pinches it (it will be used mostly for converting standing-dead lodgepole pine into firewood)?
I am looking for a lightweight 20" bar to put on my FIL's new 550xp, and don't want to waste my money.
I would consider either the 3/8 or 325 50ga bar.
I ran their bar and 3/8 chain and I thought it cut well out of the box. Probably some of the best. It's hard to judge though when your cutting cotton wood and are use to cutting hard woods. Seemed ok. I left with a bar and a chain but haven't put many hours on it since. That's going to change soon through.I ran this set up in New York @ the spring get together. I was so impressed with it I didn't take a free bar and chain home and yeah I was on a 6100. Once the chain loads up it doesn't clear chip anymore. Light weight yes, fasterish, durable, who knows... Don't lean on it. It does nothing but slow down the saw. I'd call it small wood chain. Good for a climbing saw I'd bet. 50-60cc 14-18" bar. 325 20" was not moving chip out fast enough. Gearing up might help. More aggressive chain won't.
325 20" was not moving chip out fast enough. Gearing up might help. More aggressive chain won't.