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cgraham1

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Getting a layer of spray foam in the ceiling of this house, they have an interesting setup
View attachment 184657
Do they come in after the ceiling is done and just do a thin layer from the top side, and then do blow-in in the rest of the attic? I’ve seen that done before.
 

Bigmac

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Do they come in after the ceiling is done and just do a thin layer from the top side, and then do blow-in in the rest of the attic? I’ve seen that done before.
This is an odd situation, we have a shed roof, and only 11.5” for insulation...there were 3 options, dense fill fiberglass, made for no air space, or an vented area with dense insulation and an air gap, or last, non vent, spray foam, closed sell directly to the plywood, that is to prevent any condensation and fiberglass under that. We didn’t want to have a vented soffit, and have potential leaks coming from the weather side, so we chose this! Lol
 

cgraham1

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This is an odd situation, we have a shed roof, and only 11.5” for insulation...there were 3 options, dense fill fiberglass, made for no air space, or an vented area with dense insulation and an air gap, or last, non vent, spray foam, closed sell directly to the plywood, that is to prevent any condensation and fiberglass under that. We didn’t want to have a vented soffit, and have potential leaks coming from the weather side, so we chose this! Lol
Sounds like the best option. How thick does the spray foam need to be to prevent condensation and seal everything up?

I’ve seen the same thing in 2x6 walls... thin (maybe 1.5-2”) layer of spray foam right against the exterior sheathing, then fiberglass batts meant for 2x4 walls on the inside. Gives you the moisture barrier, completely seals up any cracks, but you are still able to run wiring/plumbing just like you normally would, plus a little extra R-value.
 

Bigmac

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Sounds like the best option. How thick does the spray foam need to be to prevent condensation and seal everything up?

I’ve seen the same thing in 2x6 walls... thin (maybe 1.5-2”) layer of spray foam right against the exterior sheathing, then fiberglass batts meant for 2x4 walls on the inside. Gives you the moisture barrier, completely seals up any cracks, but you are still able to run wiring/plumbing just like you normally would, plus a little extra R-value.
They are using about 3” for the roof, ya it’s nice for being able to still run stuff, I don’t think I would like full fill, if down the road you wanted to add a wire or anything it would be a lot of work, it was over a $1 a square foot for 3”
 

Flint Mitch

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They are using about 3” for the roof, ya it’s nice for being able to still run stuff, I don’t think I would like full fill, if down the road you wanted to add a wire or anything it would be a lot of work, it was over a $1 a square foot for 3”
I hate dealing with full fill being a plumber. But learned that a hole saw can make some very nice, and fast channels through it for all my pipe!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

Bigmac

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I hate dealing with full fill being a plumber. But learned that a hole saw can make some very nice, and fast channels through it for all my pipe!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Cool trick, I honestly haven’t had to deal with it, but it’s good to know! I am used to fishing wires in fiberglass batts, and the feel and and how to run it behind drywall, you would have to pull and patch in full fill after the fact! Not cool! Lol
 

Steve

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