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USMC615

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That does suck cause ya loose every thing in there by the time you get er fixed,ours has went out a couple of times, (compressor relay) repair guy say's it's cause coils are dirty, idk. We try to keep em clean, but when it's workin ya don't think about it.
When the compressor has to cycle that much more often because of dirty coils, lack of air flow cooling, it takes a toll. The Klexon overload that protects the compressor is always the first to go. It's there for a reason. Keep the coils clean. Other things play a factor as well...but heat is the biggest killer of electrical and electronic components. Ohm out the compressor folks...it's either good or bad...open or a dead short...there is zero gray area...it's either good or bad. No different than checking the windings of a motor. Simple troubleshooting. Check the Klexon overload with a meter as well. That's where you'll find the problem 90% of the time. Here's a basic tool I made 25 yrs ago to clean my coils on my fridges...a crack and crevice tool, with a length of sink sprayer hose stuck down the neck of it, taped off. You'll notice the sucking end of the hose has a few bands of tape around it...I took the spline (flexible metal backbone of a windshield wiper blade), and taped it to it, to give it some 'backbone' and control when you've got it in the coils on the bottom of the fridge. Works like a champ and you can go from the front to the back of the coils with no problem.

You fellas go spend a few bucks, probably ain't got to, you got this chit in your shop already, and build a simple coil cleaning tool to hook up to a shop vac. To hell with bringing a compressor in the kitchen and blowing months/yrs worth of dust and dirt everywhere, only to have to dust and vacuum for another week, every day. And save yourself the $2-3K when your ol' lady says 'honey, let's hit HD or Lowe's'...and you get suckered into that high dollar stainless Samsung. It's all about picking your poison...how you folks wanna spend your money.

These new-fangled, 'high tech' refrigerators and freezers nowadays are all driver board/regulator PC board driven. Wait until problems set in after the warranty expires...They look all fine and pretty...wait til a PC board goes out in one...you'll kick yourself in the ass all the way to the appliance parts store. Trust me. You can buy another brand new 'ol skool' fridge/freezer for the same money as a PC board costs.

Here the simple coil cleaning tool I made. Hook it up to a vacuum or shop vac, pull the bottom grill/vent of the fridge/freezer every 3-4 months, set a small flashlight in there so you can see what you're doing, clean it, and be done with it.
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