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dall

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I still use an old Oregon "guageit" plate for the depth guages(cause I have them from my days of having a little shop), and I'll cut them on my old 511A. Just easier on a chain thats filed pretty evenly.
I get some pretty messed up chains. Seems most folks, myself included, file one side a little different angle than the other when they try to hand file.
Ive taught myself better over the years.
I cant use a file guide. Ive tried several, and they just dont cut as well as a good hand file.
My "paw paw" could file a chain by hand that would cut like a laser, and he did it all by hand with the saw propped on a round of firewood hed just cut.
I tried different stuff for years to get to what he did, then one day when I got a little older it finally dawned on me.
He didnt worry about math and science, he just knew what felt right and worked well.
Once I started doing that, I got to where I could actually sharpen a chain that cut well.
One thing I did pick up on was giving each tooth a little upwards hit or 3 to help with chip clearance.
Not sure if thats a thing, but it seems to work well for me.
i have one the chain vises for in the building i use and i go by when the file slides through smooth
if file is grabby then it isnt sharp and im not afraid to grab a new file when its not showing metal dust
 

dall

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Not my night. The crank is junk too. Has a .0025 groove from the inner race spinning on it. Whats strange is the bearing has no damage other than the inner race worn from spinning on the crank, plastic cage and balls are intact and spins fairly well still. The bearing didn't spin in the case either. Bearing is original oem. Case still has the fine factory machining grooves in the bearing pocket and the bearing was tight in the case like it should be. I've seen bearings lock up and then spin in the case or on the crank but never seen this before and see no reason why it should've happened. No signs of excess heat in that area. Kind of a bummer
what saw ?
 

Mastermind

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For the record, that little POS 350 has been a "found" saw for me.
All fun.
A friend put it in my truck and told me to fix it for a friend of his a few years ago.
I did. Main problem was someone did away with the tank vent and sealed the line shut so it wouldnt leak fuel.:)
Said "friend" wouldnt answer calls or any attempt I made to contact him, so the saw then became mine.
I put a 353 flat top piston in it and did a few things.
Helped wake it up some, but then this coonass from Louisiana named @Slumberjack offered to send me a cylinder for it.
After that, it needed a new intake boot and carb to feed that hungry little beast. :p
I sent Pat a pristine 261 that had been straight gassed for his troubles machining and porting the cylinder.
It somehow turned into a 262XP in sheeps clothing.:nusenuse:
The only money I spent on that saw was for the 353 Meteor piston kit, 357 carb, and some shipping.
Ive gotten at least 3x that back from it in pure enjoyment and the knowledge that there are good folks out there that will help out for no good reason, other than to see someone else enjoy what they know how to do.

Ok. It's a real saw.


Do I hear 87? 86 going once....going twice.

87 anyone? 87?

Sold for 86.
 

Loony661

462’s 4-LIFE
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Not my night. The crank is junk too. Has a .0025 groove from the inner race spinning on it. Whats strange is the bearing has no damage other than the inner race worn from spinning on the crank, plastic cage and balls are intact and spins fairly well still. The bearing didn't spin in the case either. Bearing is original oem. Case still has the fine factory machining grooves in the bearing pocket and the bearing was tight in the case like it should be. I've seen bearings lock up and then spin in the case or on the crank but never seen this before and see no reason why it should've happened. No signs of excess heat in that area. Kind of a bummer
Just hit the bearing with a 2.5lbs hammer and reinstall - it should straighten out after a smack like that
 

Kiwioilboiler

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I still use an old Oregon "guageit" plate for the depth guages(cause I have them from my days of having a little shop), and I'll cut them on my old 511A. Just easier on a chain thats filed pretty evenly.
I get some pretty messed up chains. Seems most folks, myself included, file one side a little different angle than the other when they try to hand file.
Ive taught myself better over the years.
I cant use a file guide. Ive tried several, and they just dont cut as well as a good hand file.
My "paw paw" could file a chain by hand that would cut like a laser, and he did it all by hand with the saw propped on a round of firewood hed just cut.
I tried different stuff for years to get to what he did, then one day when I got a little older it finally dawned on me.
He didnt worry about math and science, he just knew what felt right and worked well.
Once I started doing that, I got to where I could actually sharpen a chain that cut well.
One thing I did pick up on was giving each tooth a little upwards hit or 3 to help with chip clearance.
Not sure if thats a thing, but it seems to work well for me.
I'm the target market for sharpening gadgets, and I now use the stihl 2n1 having tried various granberg and others.
It's quick and produces a sharp chain that works for me, and I don't get butthurt by not being an accurate free hander coz sometimes you've just gotta know your limitations.
 

dall

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I'm the target market for sharpening gadgets, and I now use the stihl 2n1 having tried various granberg and others.
It's quick and produces a sharp chain that works for me, and I don't get butthurt by not being an accurate free hander coz sometimes you've just gotta know your limitations.
I used the 2n1 to help learn. But key is consistency
And it doesn’t matter what your setup is
 

Kiwioilboiler

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Not my night. The crank is junk too. Has a .0025 groove from the inner race spinning on it. Whats strange is the bearing has no damage other than the inner race worn from spinning on the crank, plastic cage and balls are intact and spins fairly well still. The bearing didn't spin in the case either. Bearing is original oem. Case still has the fine factory machining grooves in the bearing pocket and the bearing was tight in the case like it should be. I've seen bearings lock up and then spin in the case or on the crank but never seen this before and see no reason why it should've happened. No signs of excess heat in that area. Kind of a bummer
Worth green loctite retaining a new bearing to the crank to give it one more life?
 

Agent Smith

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Worth green loctite retaining a new bearing to the crank to give it one more life?
I thought about throwing some 638 loctite I have here at it but since i have no need for a 660, I'm probably going to sell this saw and don't want it failing again on the next guy. Probably just order a dukes or decent aftermarket crank, put it together and send it down the road.
 

timg

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the old phuks in here are usually in bed by 10 even on weekends
youd think they was bouncing the headboard off the wall but they are more than likely snoring right now
Confirmed, But hey Mr. Morning alarm takes precedence LOL!!
 

Lnk

Stock Chainsaws do not suck!
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Wife wanted a new TV for the bedroom. Took old TV down . Tv from living room moved to bedroom. Drove to Costco for new living room TV. Friend helped bring it inside and hang it up. Corner of the screen was damaged. Returned to Costco but couldn't get another one today. This is my current view. View attachment 363160
View attachment 363161
Is that an 85"? Lol
 
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